4-link

[52chevyrat]

Hey guys i have been pondering several different types of setups for my triangulated 4-link. I saw on TV a guy used square tubing on the lower links to make it easy to mount air bags would 1 1/2" tube with a 1/8" wall be strong enough, and what is good to use for upper links i need it to be strong but light weight. Also only the top links will have heim joints.

 

[donsrods]

What are you going to do for bushings in the bottom ones? You can't simply drill a hole through it and use a bolt. You need some sort of poly or other bushing in there.

I think 2x2 would be better, especially since you want to mount the bags directly on them.

Don

 

[ratty 46]

Well........IMO........ your idea of the square tube lower for air bag set up is a alright idea. The .125 wall tube will work. Crank up the welder for good penitration. Tops can or I would suggest round tube & to stay with lite/strong utilize chrome moly tube but you will need to TIG weld those. If you want the litest use CM top & bottom. If your idea is to run this on the street try some poly hiem joints. They will last longer & will not stransmit vibes to the rest of the chassis.

A good source for these items is ALSTON/Chassis Works. Check the web.

I'm utilizing a fab 9 rear with 4 link with poly joints on my 46 for coupe. I've used C/M Hjoints on the street before & aside for the extra cost they are really design for a 1/4 mile at a time.

But WTF It's just MY opinion.

Best of luck.

Ratty 46

 

[Bonehead]

I am with Don. Johnny joints, or bushings will work fine, heim joints would be the best.

 

[52chevyrat]

Well........IMO........ your idea of the square tube lower for air bag set up is a alright idea. The .125 wall tube will work. Crank up the welder for good penitration. Tops can or I would suggest round tube & to stay with lite/strong utilize chrome moly tube but you will need to TIG weld those. If you want the litest use CM top & bottom. If your idea is to run this on the street try some poly hiem joints. They will last longer & will not stransmit vibes to the rest of the chassis.

A good source for these items is ALSTON/Chassis Works. Check the web.

I'm utilizing a fab 9 rear with 4 link with poly joints on my 46 for coupe. I've used C/M Hjoints on the street before & aside for the extra cost they are really design for a 1/4 mile at a time.

But WTF It's just MY opinion.

Best of luck.

Ratty 46

well on the lower links im going to use rubber leaf spring bushings with the crush sleave 1 3/4 ODon both ends, on the top im going to use heim joints on both ends. but you think 2x2 with a 1/8 wall would work better.
thanks
Jason

 

[ratty 46]

Hey Jason,

I won't say better......tomatoe ... tomatoe, which ever way you say it......you'll still end up with a red, round fruit.

The 2X2 should be fine..... but as for the heim joints (either solid or spherical) I'd stay away as they will transfer any & all rd. vibes to the chassis.

I've built, raced & street drove pro street & race cars over the past 25 yrs. - even before the 80's first big pro street car run.......and have always had issues with solid & spherical rod ends on the street. Quality wasn't an issue - usage was. They are not designed to take the daily beating of street conditions. Run a poly bushed system. You will enjoy that vehicle more.

Ratty 46

 

[DirtWorshiper]

I have used both round and square material for four links, either will work fine.

Just throwing another idea at you here, IMO maybe consider using rectangular tubing on the lower links if you have room. You can always taper the ends for clearance and a clean look. .120 wall min. Depending on weight, possibly even plate the sides. Same for the top links, but no need to plate them.

I recommend using a poly bushing of some sort on the axle end and if you don't mind spending a few extra bucks, get some Currie Johnny Joints for the frame end, they are greasable and re-buildable (you would probably never have to rebuild one on a street application). You can get them where you just weld the sleeve to your link or you can get them with a threaded end like a hiem. I agree with ratty 46, hiems transfer a lot of vibration and have zero give, bushings and Johnny Joints are a little easier on things, not to mention quieter.

If your budget minded just use bushings on both ends, just keep in mind you won't have any adjustability once everything is welded up. If you use a hiem or Johnny Joint you can make pinion adjustments if needed.

 

[Dvapteam]

2 Cents

You know a lot of guys here say "use what you can get" I prefer square just for the look.