angle and distance of drive shaft

[custom cabby]

i have a 68 f100 that i have done a flip on the rear and cut coils on the front. when i first did the drop, i took it out for a test drive and hit some gravel and once i hit pavement, my bf's gripped and turned the axle up towards the bed. (because i hadnt tightened all the bolts down enough and i did not weld the spring perches onto the bottom of the rear end) so, longer story short.... it bound up the driveshaft because i guess when i lowered the rear, that brought the rear end forward just enough to "pinch" the drive shaft a bit and bind it when it flipped up. there is no one in my town that will do a drive shaft "center replacement/shortening." so what options do i have. i could possibly find another shaft but it would not stop it from doing it again. would i be able to loosen the rear shackle of the leaf spring and swing it towards the rear enough to move the rear end back? i need to compensate for that rear end moving forward due to the lowering. but not sure how to go about that. any advise would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bonehead]

Axle wrap is pretty hard to control, but you have to tighten things down!
That said, drive shaft length can usually go several feet, (I have seen 6-7 feet) without a carrier bearing. Length should not be an issue. Angle should not be an issue either. If your drive shaft is going up from the tranny to the rear end, it should be less angle than when it was in it's stock location.

Salvage yards usually have stacks of drive shafts, and that is always a possibility. Or have your local driveline place "re-tube" your old yolk ends.
A good welding shop might also be able to re-tube for you.

 

[custom cabby]

see this is my problem. i cannot find anyone around here to replace and shorten the tube. i figure its just a matter of only about an inch or a little over but no one around here wants to touch it. so this is my main problem. thats why i was figuring i could do something simple to move rear back.

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

If you flipped the rearend properly the distance should not have changed at all, or at least an amount so minute it would not affect anything like you are describing. More then likely you tweaked something when you did your "test drive". Hopefully this taught you a valuable lesson about suspension mods and double and triple checking everything before you attempt to put any power to it, yet alone move the vehicle.

If you do find yourself in need of driveshaft work, Dayton Clutch & Joint or American Driveline will do it for you. Their numbers will be in the book. They are both in Dayton, are very experienced and have reasonable prices. Not too far of a drive for you...

 

[custom cabby]

thanks for the info blue. i think i just kinked the shaft real good but was told it was too close on the yoke. lesson? it sounded and felt like a bomb exploding. lesson is an understatement.

 

[bob w]

Cabby, My guess is when the rear axle rotated and the pinion pointed upward, you exceeded the angle that a u-joint can handle. When that happens the driveshaft wants to whip instead of rotate. I did the same thing at the dragstrip in the mid 60's with my Anglia(Thames). The ladder bars weren't strong enough and folded, the pinion went up and the driveshaft tore the back off the transmission and ripped out the floor. I've built everything much stronger since then.
It sounds to me like you have limited experience (no offense intended). I suggest you find a car guy to look at your driveshaft the tell you what needs to be done. Good luck.

 

[Willowbilly3]

There isn't a driveline shop in Springfield Ohio??? How about a regulat machine shop? They should be able to shorten it an inch. If you haven't welded the axle pads on yet, take them to the drill press and redrill the center bolt hole 1/2 inch or so. Get an agle finder and use it to set the axle before you weld it in.
Also remember that Fordification site is an awesome resouce for 67-72 Ford pickups.

 

[custom cabby]

no offence taken bob. you are right, i do have limited knowledge and experience. and even more, no welding experience. took it to someone that i thought for sure would be able to help me and he made it sound as if he didnt have the interest/time to do it for me.

so if there's anyone out there that will come to my house with their welder, let me botch my truck up even more, totally destroy your welder, look at me and smile and go buy another one and let me do it all over again.... my address is........

 

[buckeyedon]

C.C call - Dayton Clutch and Joint, 937-236-9770. St.Rt. 202(troy st.) Dayton
They do good work. And will shorten, weld or make custom drive shafts. Hope this helps. Don

 

[Unkl Ian]

... (because i hadnt tightened all the bolts down enough and i did not weld the spring perches onto the bottom of the rear end) so, longer story short....

Why do you think the factory welds the spring perches ?






Maybe to stop stuff like this from happening ?

 

[custom cabby]

okay, okay.... it was one of those duh and anxious moments.

 

[Mr.Gussett]

Drive shaft?

Hey, Custom Cabby I just had a drive shaft made from scratch (I had nothing) at NAPA here in Chillicothe and they do good work!If I can help let me know (with a PM)