Brake line kit?

[jmlcolorado]

Hey guys,
I'm about ready to start bending some brake lines. I need some opinions as to what universal kits you guys have used and how they compare.
This will be my my first go round so tips would be greatly appreciated.

I am hoping to run new hard lines to all four corners. I will likely run hard lines for air as well. Are hard brake lines good for this? I figured if I can get them to hold air, I can get them to work brakes too

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

Not sure what you mean by "universal kit". My brake line kit consists of rolls of the proper size tubing, fittings, a bender and a good quality flaring tool. Don't settle for a cheapie - they are junk and will only serve to frustrate you. Take your time, be thorugh and practice LOTS. Brakes are not a place to tread lightly. Also be prepared to scrap some tubing while learning. It take a little geting used to...

 

[billy]

Not sure what you mean by "universal kit". My brake line kit consists of rolls of the proper size tubing, fittings, a bender and a good quality flaring tool. Don't settle for a cheapie - they are junk and will only serve to frustrate you. Take your time, be thorugh and practice LOTS. Brakes are not a place to tread lightly. Also be prepared to scrap some tubing while learning. It take a little geting used to...

yep
the only thing i did different was.
i got a bunch of straight lengths because i am fenderless
and those coils of tube are impossible to get real straight.
purely a comsetic thing.

 

[eyesore]

IMO, those kits are a ripoff. You can buy straight lengths at NAPA and save a ton of money. I have never been able to straighten out those rolled lines either!

ISore

 

[Old Iron]

Ditto on the straight lines and you need to invest in a double flare kit too as the brake lines ends are double flared
No HF stuff on this job

 

[Tripper]

Ditto on the straight lines and you need to invest in a double flare kit too as the brake lines ends are double flared
No HF stuff on this job

Agreed... and don't buy a cheapie flare tool!!!

BoB

 

[billy]

oh yeah

put those connectors on the lines BEFORE you flare!

 

[jmlcolorado]

By universal, I ment not a pre bend kit for any specific vehicle.
Do you prefer steel lines or stainless? I hear that you CAN'T double flare stainless without a $500 hydraulic machine.
I would rather straight lines myself. I'm not sure I'd like the end result of a coil.
What type of fittings do you use?
I'm building this from scratch. I'm still up in the air of if I'm going to use power brakes or manual. I think I want power just because this truck will likely be taking a couple 3000+ mile trips.

What kind of flaring tools are you guys using?

 

[Sam_Fear]

I bought a flare kit from NAPA - found out it was the same junk kit that HF sells for 1/3 the price. Doh!

If it's gonna be seen, probably the straight lines are your best bet. You can reuse the fittings already on them if you go to your local car parts place and pick what you need.

Not sure why driving 3,000 miles at once would require power brakes? I'd want them more if I was driving in town all the time. But then, I'm a flat lander.

I hand bent mine around a smallish pulley - worked good enough for my build.

 

[jmlcolorado]

I bought a flare kit from NAPA - found out it was the same junk kit that HF sells for 1/3 the price. Doh!

If it's gonna be seen, probably the straight lines are your best bet. You can reuse the fittings already on them if you go to your local car parts place and pick what you need.

Not sure why driving 3,000 miles at once would require power brakes? I'd want them more if I was driving in town all the time. But then, I'm a flat lander.

I hand bent mine around a smallish pulley - worked good enough for my build.

Oh blah Sam my thinking was that it would be a long trip and I would get tired of punching all my weight to stop the truck on a trip. I guess your thinking is more accurate in that multiple short trips around town would force me to use the brakes more

 

[sneakysnake]

I just bought sticks as close as possible and used a cheap bender.It made tighter bends than the kind made for copper.Buddy had a double flare kit so I didnt have to buy one. A little trick, if you get to a spot with several bends use a welding rod to make a pattern to bend the line to match.

 

[Tim...Ok]

I always buy mine in straight sticks from the auto parts store..they come in lengths up to 6' long and already have the fittings and flares on them..they sell connectors to join two pieces if you need more length than that..simple and effective

 

[BigIrish]

Agreed, much easier to buy the pre-fabbed sticks at NAPA or wherever. I have to try 3 or 4 times with the flaring tool to get 1 decent flared end.

Also it helps to install the little copper cone gaskets in between all your fittings. It will make for a leak-free install the first time.

 

[JeremyL]

The copper nickel alloy lines are a whole lot easier to bend. And I agree, don't skimp on the double flare tools.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Great info here guys! I might go the pre made route for the main runs. That will make the job that much easier i think. The goal is to run 3 lines at least under the cab. It seems i keep putting the cab and bed on cause i love to look at it, but then i cant get anything done. So i pulled the body off and swore not to reinstall until i have the chassis done.
I think ill still need to do some flaring to get the lines all to their final destination at the flex lines. For that, ill have to do some flaring.
Im thinking of picking up the eastwood professional flaring tool. Not the most expensive tool, but not the cheapest either.

Im going to run 2 lines for air to the back where the tank is. These will run the front bags. They will likely be 1/2". Then a line for fuel, again, 1/2" and the line to the rear for the drums, 3/16".

Which reminds me, im starting this system from scratch, so what is a typical layout with disks up front and drums in the rear?
Ill install a junkyard brake booster. With the 2 lines comming out of that, will i need a proportioning valve still or will the master cylinder do all the work for that?

Heres the flaring tool i have in mind:

 

[Sam_Fear]

Never thought of running steel line underneath for air. 1/2 is overkill for air unless you plan to hop. Since you are running bags, make sure the flex hose for the rear axle will stretch far enough when locked up.

You will need a proportioning valve. Don't forget the gas line too.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Never thought of running steel line underneath for air. 1/2 is overkill for air unless you plan to hop. Since you are running bags, make sure the flex hose for the rear axle will stretch far enough when locked up.

You will need a proportioning valve. Don't forget the gas line too.

I dont really PLAN on hopping, but i wanted overkill. I figure i can just put smaller valves on to slow the truck. Air is new to me, so im just kinda wingin it here. But that reminds me, i will need a 1/2" line for the train horns. I could do those out of DOT line though.

You think 1/2" for fuel is overkill? Im not running anything monstrous, just a SBC 350. Might get bored and stroked one day.

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

3/8" is more than enough for fuel, even on a radical street engine.

Not sure why you guys are complaining about the coils of hard line. [S Clamp the end in a vice, roll it out and straighten as necessary. Not that hard and WAY cheaper. If I can get razor straight lines with my shaky hands I know you can!

 

[Sam_Fear]

Clamp, then roll out, THEN straighten!? That sounds like a lot of work to me... I used roll for my fuel line but prefabs for most of my brakes - no flaring needed.

For air, I used 1/2" everything and quickly realized it was way to much. I had to put 1/16" restricters in line and now it goes up and down nice and smooth. 1/8th" would have been about max what I needed. A 1/4" system is what I will do if there is a next time.

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

Clamp, then roll out, THEN straighten!? That sounds like a lot of work to me...

Well worth it. Besides, it's a lot less work than having to deal with lines that don't fit right because you don't want to flare them. Faster too...

I like my brake lines to fit and look right. Nothing better than making a nice flowing bend with tidy clamps. Lines are one of things that when done properly they can really highlight a build and show attention to detail, or when done wrong can make even the cleanest chassis or engine compartment look totally half-assed...