Disk/drum advice?

[kelseydum]

I am finally getting to the point of setting up my brakes. I'm running the usual front disk/ rear drum set up. I'm new to all this so let me know if I have this right or if you can give me some other advice.

I'm thinking I'll just run manual brakes instead of power. This will be a little cheaper it looks like. I already bought new wheel cylinders for my rear end. All I'm lacking is my master cylinder and pedal set up. I've been researching trying to figure out what will work best and/or what is easiest to find locally at the junk yard or if I need to buy new parts.

What I need to know is if I run manual brakes do I just need the dual master cylinder, residual pressure valves (2psi for front and 10psi for rear), hoses, metering valve (for front), t-fitting (for rear), and the pedal assembly?

Also, The junk yard said I can pull a MC for $25 and a new one at Autozone is $35-$40. I know the good thing about pulling it from the junk yard is I can find everything that goes with it right there. Would it be better (and safer) to buy the MC new and get the rest of the stuff from the junk yard (pedal assembly, fittings, hoses, pressure valves)? I know the pressure valves are only like $10 brand new.

Please let me know if there is anything I'm leaving out.

 

[Sam_Fear]

I did a disk brake swap on my 63 F100 - bought a specific MC that would fit my truck correctly. No booster - works great. Sounds like you have everything you need. I assume the metering valve is for the different pressures needed - I snagged a proportioning valve out of a newer F150 for that.

As for the MC, I gotta wonder if a new, el-cheap-o no-brand from AutoZone is going to be any better than a used OEM from the junk yard? I'm picky about brake parts, but I'm not sure one is better than the other.

 

[Tripper]

Kelseydum,
I always go for a power booster, there can't be that much difference in price... I prefer as much brake pressure as possible. Also, I suggest you stay with a dual master unless u're really tryin' for a traditional look, it's just safer... 1 circuit for the fronts & 1 for the backs. I also stay away from used brake system parts... just weigh savin' $50-$100 against your life! Just my .02.

BoB

 

[Unkl Ian]

Definitely need a dual stage master cyl. Cheap insurance.

It really sucks when you have zero brakes.

 

[kelseydum]

Another quick question...

Does the pressure differential switch (alerts driver of leaks) need to be off of a newer vehicle? Did they have them on a 1975 Camaro? Also, Is there somewhere to find a proportioning valve cheaper than $50- $60? I'm thinking I can buy the MC new and get some of these valves from a used vehicle.