extending an axle?

[bighroder]

I got my 50 chevy 2 ton front axle I was wondering if it could be extended to save some money or if it was cast and is not safe to do I'd like to know if its been done I want to xtend it 6 inches just so the wheels sit outside the body it would save me close to 600 in buying a new axle and new rims any help would be appreciated thanks Zeth

 

[Bonehead]

The front axle is not a good place to practice. I am not positive what axle you have there, or what it is made of, but it is probably dropped forged, and is made of weldable steel. There are some cast axles out there, and those should not be messed with.
A grinder throws dark orange sparks from cast iron and bright orange from steel.

 

[cantwell.colton]

the only way i would even think about going about doing that would be with some sort of coupling... and it would worry me to death.

 

[Bonehead]

Here is a lengthend radius arm for a Ford Bronco. It is a long arm that I built for a friend who jumps his bronco in the desert on a regular basis. No problem, so far.
Yes, do it right, or don't do it at all.

 

[zzrodder]

Very unlikley that it is cast, especially on a 2 ton. Some sort of sleeve and or coupling may work but it would be ugly and obvious. I saw an Econiline axle that had been narrowed to use in a gasser, the guy filled the I beam in on both sides with pieces of flat bar welded to it - when he jacked it up with a floor jack in the center, it bent !! All the welding weakened it, took out the temper, whatever. I'd say lesson learned, don't do it.

 

[bob w]

I've narrowed several axle with no problem. Have never lengthened one. Actually, I'm surprised the axle you have would need lengthening for your needs. The center of the axle doesn't have a great deal of force on it as the springs (parallel leafs) or perches (cross leaf spring) are where the greatest stress is. I would find a second axle and splice a section of that into your axle. V-groove very deeply. I stick weld instead of wire feed to get maximum penetration. A 3/8" thick by 4" long piece of flat stock is welded across the back side of the weld joint, in the axle web.
Be very accurate in lining up the pieces so both axle kingpin bores have the same, and correct, inclination (camber) and that they are on the same plane so the caster will be the same for each end. Remember, stuff moves when heated so clamp all the pieces very firmly.

 

[bighroder]

I got 2 options be cheap and try to use the stock axle and I still have to redrill the wheels to make them fit or option 2 is to buy a later model front off a semi or big truck with hydraulic brakes which will cost a bit of money to buy and they aren't real easy to find which is what I really should do and just call it a loss for the wheels I bought

 

[Shea Laking]

Look for an old UPS or Postal Service cube van cheap and buy that.

Good for the front axle, diff with better gearing, maybe engine/trans?

Regards,
Shea

 

[rdixiemiller]

I got 2 options be cheap and try to use the stock axle and I still have to redrill the wheels to make them fit or option 2 is to buy a later model front off a semi or big truck with hydraulic brakes which will cost a bit of money to buy and they aren't real easy to find which is what I really should do and just call it a loss for the wheels I bought

Most late model big trucks or semis have air brakes. Why not redrill the hubs and drums? Easier and safer than redrilling wheels. I have redrilled dumptruck front hubs over the years, just be careful with your layout and it should be fine.