F-2 Stang

[DJ3100]

Photo 1 shows where I am now. Actually, I've done quite a lot since this photo, but most of it doesn't show.

Photo 2 is the hot rod kit I purchased. I know, it looks like an '84 Mustang, or if you look closer it's part Capri, part Mustang. The 5 lug, 11" front rotors, rear discs, and 8.8 4:11 Trutrak (or whatever Ford calls it) are Ford SVO. It has a 302 and a 5 speed. I bought it for $2500 and sold the parts I don't need for $1300.

Photo 3 is the '48 (looks like a '49) F-2 I purchased for $250. I sold the engine, tranny for $200 and the frame for scrap for $22.

The plan: Round tube, very stiff frame. 2000 pounds. Use all the Mustang parts I can on the drive train and suspension. Use F-2 parts on the body, bed and grille. All Ford or home built. It should handle like a slot car and be very quick. Budget $3000 (ok, realistically I'm at $5000).

 

[hotrod preacher]

i like the fresh thinking, and being a friend of the blue oval camp--i like the pony power for sure[cl

looks good so far--how about a few more pics[P

 

[DJ3100]

The first step on the cab was to section 4" out of the center. I didn't need the floor or the firewall, so I cut them out.

I braced up the cab and made verticle braces using a 3 piece weldment with the center piece 4" long. When I removed the center I could weld the braces back in place.

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks, Hotrod Preacher.

I bolted up the top half of the door and tacked it into alignment. then the bottom half was mounted, aligned and tacked to the top half.

 

[DJ3100]

Somehow, I think the photos got out of order. I'm not so good at this posting stuff, so if anyone has any advice, let me know.

With the cab sectioned and blocked at ride height. The engine, tranny and rear were mocked up. The first part of the frame was the firewall hoop. It bolts to angle iron bracing I welded to the cowl. This gave me a definite location for the front of the cab. (I later made some brackets that mount the rear door jamb to the frame to locate the rear or the cab.)

The next photos show the progression of the frame. I built the main section of the frame on a platten which is flat and level.
Currently, the frame still needs a lot more triangulation and to finish the welding. In a couple weeks, after I get the locations for the E brake, gas pedal and a few other details worked out, I'll pull it all apart and put it back on the platten to finish it.

However, there are a lot more photos to catch the project up to date.

 

[BigShem]

looks pretty trick to me,,,, cant wait to see more....[cl[cl

 

[Gastrick]

That's really slick DJ3100. The round tube chassis is nice.

 

[DJ3100]

That's really slick DJ3100. The round tube chassis is nice.

This is my first attempt at compound round tube joinery and it is turning out
to be a huge challenge. I'm trying to TIG everything on the frame, but some things I just can't reach, see and stomp on the pedal at the same time. And there is a TON of welding.

Fitting each joint averages an hour, but I have spent a whole day on 2 tubes.

I'll be glad when the frame is complete. I have been on a 4 month break from the tube frame, so I'll probably have to learn it all over again when I get back to it.

 

[DJ3100]

Here are a couple more photos of the frame.

The '84 Mustang uses struts on the front, I wanted Double A arms. I didn't feel comfortable modifying the strut spindles, so the a friend gave me some Mustang II spindles. I had to modify the bearing length slightly so they would fit the SVO rotors, and ream the lower ball joint hole to fit the Moog lower ball joint that was in the Mustang.

I made the control arms and the caliper mounting brackets. Took me week to keep from using the GM rotors and calipers - usually found on Mustang II spindles. Sticking to "The Plan" is a lot of work.

 

[DJ3100]

Chopped the Top 2 1/2 inches. I'm embarrassed mentioning this to the folks on this site. You chop 6" and think its not quite enough.

I wanted to keep the rear window full size. The layout is the photo with the green tape.

The top was bashed in, beyond anything I wanted to address, so I cut it out. In its place will go a Sliding Rag Top that I just got (in 2 days) for Christmas. It turns out the guys that make them are about 30 miles away.

Most of the sheet metal was welded with an ox-acet torch. The metal is too rusty and dirty for TIG (ox-acet doesn't care about rust). The gas weld shrinks a lot, but is very easy to hammer and dolly. The problem is, I am never quite sure how much hammering is required - more experience is needed. I'm 90 - 95 % on these welds, but the last 5-10% is difficult for me to acheive.

 

[CORPO]

very cool man.. i really like the frame work.. might want to look in to a finger tip control for your tig it will help you with getting into places... i have one on my tig set up and it helps alot.. plus its one less cable to drag arround the shop..

keep it up man thats a cool build for sure

 

[dmw56]

What can I say other than AWESOME!

 

[DJ3100]

The F-2 Grille was cut down to get rid of the headlights.

Photo 1 is a side view - not too thrilled about the V-shaped gap.

Photo 2 is the front view (pass side cut for modification) don't think the squared corner looks right.

A little shrinking hammering and wheeling (ok a lot) we have the general shape.

Photo 4 is a simple hammer form to make the rolled edge on the bottom.

Photo 5 is the pieces tacked (don't look at the tacks).

 

[DJ3100]

Photo 1 one side done, cutting the other

Photo 2 grille with rounded edges

 

[DJ3100]

very cool man.. i really like the frame work.. might want to look in to a finger tip control for your tig it will help you with getting into places... i have one on my tig set up and it helps alot.. plus its one less cable to drag arround the shop..

keep it up man thats a cool build for sure

Thanks very much.

Yeah, my TIG and pedal are ancient so the pedal dragging is a real pain.
I keep thinking I need the finger tip control, too. Most of the time it isn't an issue, I just pull up a chair and weld. Then I go to work on this frame and find myself trying to stand on my head with one foot on the ground.

I need check them out.

 

[DJ3100]

Both front bed pockets were rusted out photo 1. As you can see, I have cut about 3 feet out of the center of the the bed side.

Started with a flexible pattern made from the rear. Photo 2

Traced the shape on some 18 ga. I was not able to make the part as the pattern shows, I ended up cutting it lengthwise and making 2 seperate pieces.

Photo 4. Use thumb nail dies to shrink the edges. Didn't get enough shrink.

Moved to the shrinker and got some more shrink, but still not enough.

 

[Bonehead]

Looking really good. When I did mine I couldn't figure out how to make the cab come on and off around the tubes. I like what you came up with. Keep up the great work.

 

[DJ3100]

Photo 1 & 2 . I tried several ways to get enough shape. The way that worked best was to heat to red, which makes the metal pucker up, then gently tap the pucker down (off dolly).

Photo3. I used a ball stake to planish the lumps. Enventually they took the correct shape.

Photo 4. Hammer form for the bottom edge

Photo 5. A little planishing to smooth it out

 

[JohnnyC.]

Wow, very impressive.

 

[DJ3100]

Photo 1. Band saw out the just enough, plus a little

Photo 2. subassembly welded. I replaced the whole corner also.

Photo 3. Welded to the bed side.

Photo 4. The front and back look the same after some grinding.