frame jigz

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skootzrodshop

New member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
3
hey anyone who has built or fabbed up their own frame, what can i use to lay out and weld up a frame for my `39 on, just a big flat level table or what? i was gunna do that and then use 2x4 tube to build it, and then just basically use blocks of wood to level everything out( and a level of course) then weld it up, block it up and then build the car at ride hieght on the table.....will this work or do i need to do something different? thanks in advance!!
 
It can be as simple as laying it up on a garage floor (just making sure it is totally level in all directions) or as elaborate as a steel topped actual jig made for this purpose. I have heard of people building one out of strong lumber too.

The ideal jig is made out of steel so that you can clamp the pieces down as you weld to prevent pulling and warping. As you weld the natural tendency is for the metal being welded to move, and it will actually move a surprising amount. If you have something to clamp it to you will minimize that warping.

My Son built our frame jig, and he made it so that it is not in the way when not being used. It is simply some rectangular steel tubing that I scored from incoming boat trailer shipments at our marina. They used it to space the stacked up trailers during transit, and the steel proved to be perfect for our needs.

He also built a small welding table that we use for EVERYTHING. It has proven to be something we both use constantly. We clamp frame sections to it and weld them up before we put them on the big jig for final welding. If you are going to be doing lots of welding over time, a welding table is great to have.

Here are some pictures of our table and our jig in use.

Don
 

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Mostly I use my welding table it is 1 1/2 thick steel and flatter than a pancake. I also have a portable unit for long term projects. Made from an 18 inch heavy I beam. If your fabrication skills are good you can actually build it on heavy saw horses, the key is to level and measure everything and understand what heat will do to the frame as you weld it. I like the big table, because I can clamp things down and in place to the point they won't move as I weld.
 

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AWESOME! thanks alot guys, i love your tables too, thats a great idea of making a smaller table to weld the minor stuff up on before it goes on the frame. i have a feeling i will be picking up some metal here pretty soon. also one more thing, do you reccomend a tig or will a regular gas mig work for this? all i have is a gasless and another gas mig here at work that i can use, i can prolly get a tig somewhere if i have to, im actually looking into building A-arms and everything for this thing as of right now. i hate buying parts for hundreds of dollars when i can make them for less then half the cost.
 
hey anyone who has built or fabbed up their own frame, what can i use to lay out and weld up a frame for my `39 on, just a big flat level table or what? i was gunna do that and then use 2x4 tube to build it, and then just basically use blocks of wood to level everything out( and a level of course) then weld it up, block it up and then build the car at ride hieght on the table.....will this work or do i need to do something different? thanks in advance!!

I love this one...
Does one need a welding jig or table to make up the welding jig or table on?
;)

I think if you are going into production of many frames, the expense and work involved in making a single purpose table for that purpose is worth while, but if you are just building one frame, or one every couple of years or so, just lay it out on a reasonably flat garage floor or a couple of saw horses and before and several times after tack welding, square it up by measuring it both ways diagonally and check for twist by stretching a couple of pieces of string diagonally across it corner to corner and check that they just barely touch where they cross.
I found that during welding a "Z" on a Model A frame with those crossed strings that the frame would twist as it heated and then return to flat after cooling.
Your dimension tolerance should be about 1/8"
 
I thought you guys might like seeing one that a member posted on another forum. This thing is nice, but I'd be afraid to weld on it and scratch it up!! :D:D

If I ever hit the lottery this will be one of my first purchases.:D:D


Don
 

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