frame width?

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deerchooper

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2010
Messages
744
what are you guys going for on frame widths?

im running a bbc in a 33 olds sedan.

just wondering.

terry
 
We do a lot of frames. they are straight front to back 26 1/2" outside. That leaves plenty of room for any engine and you can run runners to the rocker boxes if needed, depending on the body you will be using. Then of course you can use any Z you might need front and rear.
 
We usually taper them. 24 inches in front and 27 or so in the back. What is more important though is that your frame fit within your firewall dimensions, and also be close to the outside of the firewall so the frame doesn't look "lost" in there. It should look proportionate, so every build is different.

Don
 
thanks guys. i know every ride is different. i was just seeing if there was some kind of norm, lol. you guys are within the same on the front width.

now i ordered 2x3x3/16 tubing. i just seen a post where 2x3 is on the light side. im looking at running a 124" to 128" wheel base. i was thinking if i added a 2x3 x brace for the whole body that should stiffen it up. the body is just under 8', but my rear end will be forward so that might leave me say 5 to 6' of x bracing. what is your thoughts?
 
i was also thinking where i z the front. i could cut a wedge to help stiffen up the front section heading towards the motor.

or maybe i can see if i can change my order if its not to late, lol.
 
Not to rain on your parade, but an X member will have no effect on it sagging in the middle. Take a 126 inch piece of 3 inch box and use it as a pry bar and you will see it will deflect. A heavy engine and body sitting in the middle of that wheelbase has the same effect. Then imagine bouncing down the road with all that weight in the center.

4 inch is just so much less prone to sagging that it makes sense to use it IMO.

Don
 
A cross member won't do much about the sagging/bending in the frame middle of the frame.

I agree with Don. I don't recommend using 2x3 for a frame, especially on a wheelbase as long as yours. Attached is the picture of a frame I built out of 2x3x1/8" for my friend for his 23 T-bucket. He already had the material and wouldn't buy 2x4. I also couldn't get it through his thick skull that his frame material was weak. Long story short, with his roughly 105" wheelbase, there's enough sagging in the middle that's visible to the naked eye.

A weak frame can cause a series of problems. Besides the obvious safety concerns, you may experience problems with body seams being uneven, body panels/doors not lining up, roof/body panels wrinkling and so forth. Invest the extra $50 and get some 3/16" or thicker 2x4 tubing.

Best of luck! :)

kevinsframe.jpg
 
ok i got the material switched from 2x3 to 2x4. should have it by tuesday i hope.

blue eye devil. stock wheel base on my car was 115" for the inline 6, the inline 8 model came with 120 or 121" wheel base. whats another 8", lol.

also i drive a quad cab short bed gmc 2500. if it turns better than that its a plus, lol.
 

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