Front end quiz...LOL
- Thread starter BadRATT
- Start date
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Bonehead
Skull Master
Might be U bolts that go around the axle near the plate, with a flat plate on top of the springs?
hotrod preacher
"Official RRR Chaplain"
that axle, as you probably already know, was originally used w/ parallel leaf-springs on either side, there have been some guys on here that have shown ways to convert to a single "buggy spring" suspension with 4/link or hairpins.....
try looking up roddguy or roddguy1 his was the one i personally liked best
try looking up roddguy or roddguy1 his was the one i personally liked best
dogpatch1
Well-known member
custom
Now i dont pretend to know what im doing or anything so take these for what there worth i have made several of these and they hold up pretty well welded to the axle.. gota make em or find some one with a welder that will do it for ya... dp1
Now i dont pretend to know what im doing or anything so take these for what there worth i have made several of these and they hold up pretty well welded to the axle.. gota make em or find some one with a welder that will do it for ya... dp1
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hotrod preacher
"Official RRR Chaplain"
hey dogpatch, those look good-i had not seen your pics, the other one i mentioned used 4-link bars, it looks like you used hairpins..?just curious what thickness are your brackets? and is it regular mild steel or something else?
thanks man....
thanks man....
dogpatch1
Well-known member
brackets
they are 1/4 mild steel and set up to go with radius rod hairpins. and are drilled for a 3/8s bolt thru clevis'(rod ends) on 5 inch centers and the spring pivot has a hardened 5/8s fine tread bolt and is located 3.5 inches above axle when welded in place, it is designed to let your side to side tie rod run thru it using stock arms or bolt on aftermarket arms attached to the lower to bolts on the spindle. hope it helps i have a pattern drawn up for a template if needed just let me know.. thanks dp1
they are 1/4 mild steel and set up to go with radius rod hairpins. and are drilled for a 3/8s bolt thru clevis'(rod ends) on 5 inch centers and the spring pivot has a hardened 5/8s fine tread bolt and is located 3.5 inches above axle when welded in place, it is designed to let your side to side tie rod run thru it using stock arms or bolt on aftermarket arms attached to the lower to bolts on the spindle. hope it helps i have a pattern drawn up for a template if needed just let me know.. thanks dp1
Hey HRP..Got an answer...
Hehehehehe..as usual I bought the WRONG axle for my application..( what else is new with me...LMAO..) I checked around with several companies and they all agreed to do 1 of 2 things.Either sell that axle OR buy the correct one that I need.Hmmmm...makes so much more sense...
. I contacted a guy from Kennys Customs and he has the correct axle for me so I will order one from him.
Hehehehehe..as usual I bought the WRONG axle for my application..( what else is new with me...LMAO..) I checked around with several companies and they all agreed to do 1 of 2 things.Either sell that axle OR buy the correct one that I need.Hmmmm...makes so much more sense...
. I contacted a guy from Kennys Customs and he has the correct axle for me so I will order one from him.
roddguy1
Well-known member
Hehehehehe..as usual I bought the WRONG axle for my application..( what else is new with me...LMAO..) I checked around with several companies and they all agreed to do 1 of 2 things.Either sell that axle OR buy the correct one that I need.Hmmmm...makes so much more sense...
I'm very glad to hear that your going with a proper axel. That axel you do have is from an F1 with the flanges cut off. That makes my brackets usless on your axel. I'm also not a big fan of welding on a forged axel, even though I know guys do it and get away with it. The brackets that I made took a lot of design and effort to build to work properly with that axel. There were a number of clearance issues with the steering linkage. I also wanted to keep the center link behind the axel for proper Ackerman angle. They will also accept a hair pin but I choose the four link for it's improved driving qualities. In the end I think your going to be much happier what a purpose engineered axel in your rod, and likely cheeper too.
Bonehead
Skull Master
Just my thoughts....
The axle is probably drop forged. (I would never ever weld a cast axle) You could weld on drop forged metal, but it does change the strength. I usually advise against it, because it should not be taken on by welders who don't understand what they are doing to the metal. If there is a way to build bolt on brackets and use grade 8 bolts, that would be the safer bet.
The axle is probably drop forged. (I would never ever weld a cast axle) You could weld on drop forged metal, but it does change the strength. I usually advise against it, because it should not be taken on by welders who don't understand what they are doing to the metal. If there is a way to build bolt on brackets and use grade 8 bolts, that would be the safer bet.
Bonehead
Skull Master
As an example, here are some radius arms for a 79 Ford axle that was being placed under an IFS later model Bronco. They had to be lengthened by 14 inches. Now granted, this is for a mud racer. But it will (rarely) probably see some street use too.
We plan on watching the splice and checking for cracks very often, but I don't anticipate any problems. The point is, it can be done. Different types of steel are used in drop forging depending on what the end use of the product will be. Hammer heads are a good example. The really good hammers will break away from a weld, and cheap hammers can be welded on without a problem.
We plan on watching the splice and checking for cracks very often, but I don't anticipate any problems. The point is, it can be done. Different types of steel are used in drop forging depending on what the end use of the product will be. Hammer heads are a good example. The really good hammers will break away from a weld, and cheap hammers can be welded on without a problem.
The right way to go...
I will skip the welding process as several welders I talked to today suggested against it.They all told me the front takes a TON of abuse and me being a safety freak I will just skip that and go with an axle that is already set-up.I want to be able to drive it without wondering about it all of the time.I have enough to worry about already..!! I want to thank everyone who answered this and I hope I didnt bug you guys too much.BUT I am learning,so the next build will MAYBE go faster...
I will skip the welding process as several welders I talked to today suggested against it.They all told me the front takes a TON of abuse and me being a safety freak I will just skip that and go with an axle that is already set-up.I want to be able to drive it without wondering about it all of the time.I have enough to worry about already..!!
I want to thank everyone who answered this and I hope I didnt bug you guys too much.BUT I am learning,so the next build will MAYBE go faster...
hotrod preacher
"Official RRR Chaplain"
hey, glad its all figured out for ya , badratt, but while we're on this subject, i'd like an opinion on combining the plate-design of dp1 with a thick angle iron bracket welded to it, then bolt the angle iron in the original f-1 axle location..
its a version of roddguys only using the "vertical plate" of dp1...simpler than it sounds, a picture would truly be worth a 1000 words
hey dogpatch can ya post that pattern for me-i might "modify it"
its a version of roddguys only using the "vertical plate" of dp1...simpler than it sounds, a picture would truly be worth a 1000 words
hey dogpatch can ya post that pattern for me-i might "modify it"
dogpatch1
Well-known member
hotrod P.
back in '07 i was actually going to make a plate style that would utilize the four bolt holes drilled thru the axle on each side similar to what you are describing so i know exactly what you mean. i think the bolt on design will work for shorter cross springs like 29 inches or so. and i'll post a pic of that drawing and the weld on one also, but keep in mind as mentioned when welding on a forged axle find an experienced welder. my dads friend, does all the forged work for me, has all the tricks and tools to weld to forged steel. does his hotrod building the ol fashion'd way he's gotta b pushing 78 or more, he's an ol skooler! let me dig em out. dp1, george
back in '07 i was actually going to make a plate style that would utilize the four bolt holes drilled thru the axle on each side similar to what you are describing so i know exactly what you mean. i think the bolt on design will work for shorter cross springs like 29 inches or so. and i'll post a pic of that drawing and the weld on one also, but keep in mind as mentioned when welding on a forged axle find an experienced welder. my dads friend, does all the forged work for me, has all the tricks and tools to weld to forged steel. does his hotrod building the ol fashion'd way he's gotta b pushing 78 or more, he's an ol skooler! let me dig em out. dp1, george
dogpatch1
Well-known member
hotrod preacher
"Official RRR Chaplain"
thanks man, and i am totally against welding it MYSELF-but i trust my ability to bolt on a bracket, (with good grade 8 fasteners)made of mild steel that has been welded.....don't want to be the one to show the world the meaning of a suicide front end!!!!!!
almost went with 1/4 eliptic stlye front with holes drilled through that beam...
was afraid of my own engineering, though and decided to keep it simple
almost went with 1/4 eliptic stlye front with holes drilled through that beam...
was afraid of my own engineering, though and decided to keep it simple
