My new project was shipped Sunday and I can't wait to rip into it. Got a question though. I want to lower it as low as I can go without a c-notch. What are some of the suggestions you all have here. I don't want to heat the springs either. It's a 1963 Chevy C10 with the straight 6 cylinder, runs great. And believe it or not,,,,NO RUST. Cab corners, cab mounts, front fenders and floor are rust free. Man did I luck out on this one.
Got another project, 63 Chevy C10
- Thread starter Bearcamp
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26Troadster
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- May 22, 2007
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the best way is to update the front end with a 71 to 87 front end it has disc brakes and you can get the drop spindles, or just cut the springs or order some new springs they are the same till 87. the rear is easy by using blocks and new u-bolts. my truck has one coil cut and 2" blocks on rear, if it wasn't in storage i would post a pic. if you go over to the intro page my intro was brought back to the top and there is a old pic of it from when i was in my 20'sat that time i cut 2 coils on front and put it on the bump stops every time i hit a bump and i took 2" x 3/8" flat bar and compressed the rear springs, it looked good but rode bad. if you do it do it right the first time and you will like it.
Are you saying I can use 71-87 spindles that would bolt right up to my arms? If so that's cool then I can run disc brakes. I'm trying to find out what power brake master cylinder will replace the single well one on it now. I see theysell them but they have to match up to something.
Old Iron
Well-known member
26T is saying the whole cross member, steering linkage and all.
I did this to my 66 and only had to drill 2 holes and egg shape 2 in the frame.
I used a Corvette master cylinder, both the fluid reservoirs being the same size and adapted a 73 brake booster to work.
You have to drill a hole 3/4 of an inch higher in the pedal arm so the push rod has more travel.
If you use just the spindles and put them on your suspension, the U-bolts that hold the lower a-arms on are smaller and could fail with the added braking forces that disc brakes give you.
I did this to my 66 and only had to drill 2 holes and egg shape 2 in the frame.
I used a Corvette master cylinder, both the fluid reservoirs being the same size and adapted a 73 brake booster to work.
You have to drill a hole 3/4 of an inch higher in the pedal arm so the push rod has more travel.
If you use just the spindles and put them on your suspension, the U-bolts that hold the lower a-arms on are smaller and could fail with the added braking forces that disc brakes give you.
26Troadster
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- May 22, 2007
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old iron is saying what i didn't. i only had to drill 2 holes on my 63, and if i had used the 63 ilder arm i wouldn't have had to do that. it is a stronger front end and better brakes with lots of parts out there for them. i used a early 80's brake booster gm g body i believe like a cutlass, grand prix and skylark. my master cylinder is a 74 cutlass and porportonal (spelling) valve is also a 74 cutlass, both from a 2 door. i believe it was the best move i ever made on my truck. that front end can be found anywhere.
