Hairpin radius rod seup?

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dmw56

Busted and Rusted on Route 66
Joined
Dec 21, 2007
Messages
6,572
Location
Edgewood, New Mexico off Route 66
I am setting up my suspension on my 51 F1. I have a suicide front I-beam with hair pin radius rods and a coil over with hairpins radius rods in the rear.
My questions are:

1. How far should I screw in the clevis' and heim joints on the front and rear...halfway? At half way would I have enough adjustment for caster in the front?

2. I've always set pinion angle on the rear for leaf springs and trailing arms at 3 degrees up will this be OK for a radius rod coil over susupension?
 
1-Try threading them in half way.See what happens.
Minimum thread engagement should be 1 1/2 times the diameter.

2-Pinion angle is a function of the angle on the output shaft of the transmission.
The trans points down,the pinion points up.The angle wants to be the same on both.
 
You can influence the Caster setting by the height
of where the hairpin attaches to the frame.

Lower gives more Caster.

If your location of choice doesn't give you the correct
amount of Caster,then it's time to adjust the clevises.

Small adjustments,you could move top or bottom.
Larger adjustments,move top and bottom.
One goes in,the other goes out.


And when you are finished,check the Caster on both sides.
More Caster on one side can make the car pull.
 
When I make hair pins I make the bottom leg a bit longer than the top leg. That way I can have the hairpin horizontal and have the clevises screwed in quite far and an equal amount top and bottom and have the caster I want. In other worde, I try to build the caster into the hair pins.
 
When I make hair pins I make the bottom leg a bit longer than the top leg. That way I can have the hairpin horizontal and have the clevises screwed in quite far and an equal amount top and bottom and have the caster I want. In other worde, I try to build the caster into the hair pins.


That is a brilliantly simple idea.
How much longer does the bottom need to be ?
 
Could also build Caster into the Bat Wings,if you were making your own.

The bat wings I have have the caster built into them. The top mounting hole is further forward than the bottom. So if the clevis' are at the same length the axle is angled back a few degrees.

By the way all you guys are invited over to help me put this together. Beer and bar-b-que batwings! :D
 
Last edited:
Wishbones

I've decided to go with split wishbones on the front. I just like the look of them better. Where do I cut the ball joint off to weld the bung in? Just ahead of the welds on the bones I'm assuming. But we all know what assuming will get ya.:eek:
The set I have are pristine and I don't want to ruin them.
 
Yep, what you want to do is remove as little of the length as possible, so you cut them so you are only removing the "Y" with the ball on the end. There is a welded seam there and you want to cut right through that seam or just next to it.

Speedway and others carry the bungs and ends.

Don
 

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Thanks Don. Tomorrow I'm going to weld the bungs in and make a bracket to hang my spring perch on just like yours. I will incorporate a lower shock mount on it also. I reviewed your build of your T today and found a couple of great ideas!
 
One thing to remember when setting up your bones, try to get your frame mount for them as close to the steering box as you can. That way the drag link and the drivers side bone work in a simular arc. This puts you a step on fighting bump steer.

Ron
 

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