Looking for advice

[soltz]

This is my new project. Not sure what it's going to be.
Got the frame cleaned up, rear axle changed out and sat the engine/trans in for a fitting.
My question, I need to drop the rear trans down about four inches +/-.
The torsion bar mount cross member is in the way.
I'm thinking dropping the center of it to get the clearance and add a cross member for the trans mount father back. [S
I'm thinking the torsion bars dealing with a twisting loads so, shouldn't be a problem
Thoughts

Everyone be Safe! Stay Healthy!

 

[earthman]

I with you Soltz thinking the stubs for the T-bars will be adequate with the crossmember cut away.

 

[Burgerman]

Agree. Drop the center, beef it up with gussets for strength. [cl

 

[23crate]

is this a chevy S10 frame?

 

[soltz]

Nope

is this a chevy S10 frame?

78 Chevy LUV with all body mounts removed.

Thanks for the advice guys [cl

 

[kenny c]

I think I would tie the two mounts together with a 1/2" plate at the height you need then cut the cross member out. This way there would still remain tension between the mounts and it would be less likely to twist the mounts and frame.Hope this makes sense.

 

[BillM]

I'm in agreement with Kenny - I think you definitely need to tie the two stubs together otherwise the frames will twist. If you are dropping it that much, you could always go over top of the trans, or even both over and under.

 

[dutch]

Looking at the pictures I would consider cutting out the mid section and connect the remaining parts to the rear crossmember and what ever construction you fab to mount the engine.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

I wouldn't compromise.

GM didn't put the crossmember there because it looks good. Drop the center as you need and make it at least as good or better than it was, structurally.

Torsion bar needs aside, you can't have too many crossmembers. You're throwing V8 power at a chassis designed for a weak suck 4 banger. Too much is always better than not enough...

.

 

[05snopro440]

I wouldn't compromise.

GM didn't put the crossmember there because it looks good. Drop the center as you need and make it at least as good or better than it was, structurally.

Torsion bar needs aside, you can't have too many crossmembers. You're throwing V8 power at a chassis designed for a weak suck 4 banger. Too much is always better than not enough...

.

Yep, you got it Doc.

 

[Skip]

I'm with the good Doctor on this one. Better safe...

 

[sneakysnake]

I would cut and drop the cross member, but make it to be able to unbolt so you have the strength but be able to drop it if you need to pull the tranny.

 

[dutch]

I wouldn't compromise.

GM didn't put the crossmember there because it looks good. Drop the center as you need and make it at least as good or better than it was, structurally.

Torsion bar needs aside, you can't have too many crossmembers. You're throwing V8 power at a chassis designed for a weak suck 4 banger. Too much is always better than not enough...

.

I dont know anything about those frames... but a light duty frame designed for a 4 cyl up front and then bolting a v8 in the center does not sound like a great plan in the first place ,does it? Adding material front to back would surely help prevent sag to some degree. I do agree on lotsa crossmembers tho. Its just when I look at the picture , I see a really strange shape around the trans... [S

 

[soltz]

Thanks Guys

The good Doctor was in my head.
I didn't make myself clear, the plan was always to drop the center section, not just take it out.
As for the pantie waist frame, it is fully boxed and i am adding another cross member.
I used the stoke frame on the Willys build and replace the very low powered 4 banger with the Ford 302 and after 3500 miles I only had to repair the frame once???

And, new computer, the smilies emojis aren't working?

Thanks angain gentilmen!! I'll start a build thread and keep it up to date. Might take awhile, still have to decide what body to use.

 

[05snopro440]

And, new computer, the smilies emojis aren't working?

You're probably on the secure address again. Use http:// instead of https:// and you should be good.

 

[Bamamav]

A buddy of mine had a LUV with a small block in it that he drag raced. They are tougher than you think. He even ran the stock rear end (s) for a while.....he’d get a couple of months out of them before they were destroyed. After the third rear, he put a narrowed 9” Ford in it And he broke it at least once.....

 

[23crate]

78 Chevy LUV with all body mounts removed.

Thanks for the advice guys [cl

..

thats an intriging option.. i have the 81 (isuzu P'up) version in my driveway often wondered about using its frame for some project ,, will be keeping an eye on this..
i see some familiarity now ..

they are tough frames. i agree. there is a local one with a 3.8 V6 1981-84 , few years back there was also a LUV running a wild SBC round here.

+ ive heard of a blown 3.8 up north thats running quick 1/4s

 

[Old Iron]

[P[P[P

 

[sneakysnake]

I had considered using a Luv frame on my '46 build, but the torsion bars crowded things a bit so I went with the Courier frame instead.

 

[soltz]

You're probably on the secure address again. Use http:// instead of https:// and you should be good.

Right you are, thank you sir. [cl[cl[P oh no what have i done[S