Modifying frame

[Charley Davidson]

I want to channel my body over the frame but want to have all the leg room I can get.

Soooo, can I build a frame section that just fits the cab dimensions (perimeter of the cab) then still Z the front and rear and attach it to the new section? the frame rails would not be continuous.



I'm hoping the tunnel frame work will keep it from twisting

 

[Sam_Fear]

I say yes. The weakest points I see in that are the step ups for the Z's.

Are you planning to use 3x2 for the cab frame? Use 1/8" plate for the floor sections and you wouldn't have to worry about that cab flexing at all.

 

[sgtpontiac]

What Sam said.....

"Use 1/8" plate for the floor sections and you wouldn't have to worry about that cab flexing at all. "[

 

[Charley Davidson]

I say yes. The weakest points I see in that are the step ups for the Z's.

Are you planning to use 3x2 for the cab frame? Use 1/8" plate for the floor sections and you wouldn't have to worry about that cab flexing at all.

May use 3x2 on the side rails and 6x2 front and rear if I use my original frame for the rest. Then my channel will only be 3" and less of a hassle.

What are the "known factors" I need to know before I start on my frame?
Such as wheel and tire height, springs, bags, finished ride height. How much difference does motor choice make? (not sure what I'm using yet) I know I'm using the original rear end and front axle.

 

[Jimmy Wallbanger]

Why channel

Mine 44 gmc would swallow a 2x3 without the channel if I remember. I channeled it around 3 and had to add 2" body lift and it still hangs past the frame

 

[King Herald]

May use 3x2 on the side rails and 6x2 front and rear if I use my original frame for the rest. Then my channel will only be 3" and less of a hassle.

What are the "known factors" I need to know before I start on my frame?
Such as wheel and tire height, springs, bags, finished ride height. How much difference does motor choice make? (not sure what I'm using yet) I know I'm using the original rear end and front axle.

I'd be tempted to use 3/16" wall 2" x 3" tube for the chassis, so you can get good and strong welded joints in all those corners. Plus you have enough meat to drill and tap for any fittings or brake like clips etc later on.

And yes, you really want a finished plan for your car before you start the chassis, with known wheel sizes, axle style, ride height, suspension type etc etc. Also decide on your steering system, where the steering box will fit etc, where you plan to run exhausts, drive shaft route etc.

It is far better to think of all that ahead of time than to have to cut holes in your chassis for drive shafts or headers to fit.

Starter motor clearance too.

I once Zee'd a chassis then found the exhaust ports were dead in line with the chassis rails.....

No problem, just more cutting and [

 

[TiredIronGRB]

I would use 2x3 and 2x6 tubing for all of it and "fish plate" the joints.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Unless I misunderstand your plans, I have concerns about how the Z sections will join the perimeter frame.

I'm imagining something like this, which would make for a poor joint, susceptible to shearing.

Are you trying to sit sunk down between the tunnel rail and the side rail? Is that why you want to avoid continuous rails?

Tell me more about your idea. I believe anything can be done with some creative thinking, and good fabrication. [

..

 

[sgtpontiac]

Doc....

Looking at your drawing I would suspect that you are right...weak area at the "cab platform" and the frame rails... but what if you were to notch the frame rail, and slide the platform into the notch and plate it at the bottom and gusset it the sides? I think it would be very strong at the joints but..You guys have a whole lot more experience than I do on this type of thing....
I'm not even sure if that is what CD is thinking or if he had something else in mind.....

 

[Charley Davidson]

This is how I picture doing it, of course it won't look so "boxish" I'll angle some ends to dress it up some.

 

[sgtpontiac]

CD this really isn't my field of expertise .....

This is how I picture doing it, of course it won't look so "boxish" I'll angle some ends to dress it up some.
View attachment 67135

I would think that it should be strong but something about the straight angles cuts and welds just doesn't seem right....not sure why other than it doesn't look strong... wish I could tell you more technically but I guess if it's gussetted and such, why not?? [S

 

[LOWANDRATY]

frame

Charlie you could always build a preimeter style frame with the side rails at the inside edge of the body, channel the body over the frame, and when you build your floor you can sink the area's for the seats and your feet in between the frame rails so the seat will sit lower inside the cab, like they do on corvettes. sorry I can't draw on this screen in front of me.

(BTW) I made it over to the bus 1 time at the rumble and you busy with some guy trying to get you down on your tractor seat's so I left you alone to deal with that guy, he went on and on for like 10 minutes, we walked up the other row and came back down and he was still there, I never got back over that way, sorry we didn't meet.

 

[brchopper]

your frame idea reminds me of my stock frame on my 1969 galaxie. google 1969 galaxie frame and take a look at it. the side rails run under the doors and than narrow in front and rear like you are talking about. Im not saying you should use a galaxie frame just thinking seeing a tested factory frame could keep the ideas coming on your frame

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

This, in my opinion, is the way to join structural tubing in your scheme. Notch the 2x4 to fit the 2x6.

Red 2x6, blue 2x4. Gussets? Any color you want.

 

[Torch]

"Charley Davidson;240366]I want to channel my body over the frame but want to have all the leg room I can get."

Hey Charlie
I want to channel Marylin Monroe's body over my frame but I lack the meditative skills. Instead I keep getting the ghost of Bob Marley to appear and it's a rather awkward "You Again?" moment for both of us



I'M NOT A GYNAECOLOGIST, BUT I'LL TAKE A L

K.

 

[King Herald]

Mine has some 90 degree joints in the chassis rails, but I have utilised discrete gusseting to reinforce any stressed areas.

By rights it should be as strong as regular box if welded properly, but we all have doubts and the very shape centralises stress in the inner corners.