Need some advice on frame and suspension setup

[adam f]

I'm going to get started on the frame of my 52 F1. I want it LOW. I'm also planning on adding some air shocks to be able to raise it up a little to help get up over curbs. I will have a 460 big block in it.

Right now its got a killer patina. I'm torn between keeping it, and painting it. Keeping it will be cheaper and easier, which is one of my main requirements in this build, but my other requirement is safety.

Now to my question. First, lets have a look at the spring packs that are on there right now....

I'm going to do a "Z" cut on the frame to get it down low. Now, should I keep the springs "stock" or should I take some leaves out to get some additional drop? I'd like to keep them stock and get all my drop from the frame mods. A nice thick spring pack in the front will be great for my big block, and a thick spring pack in the back will be nice if I ever want to haul anything. How do you guys usually do it? Get a little drop from the springs and some from the frame mod?

Secondly, do these springs look safe to run as-is? They have grease fittings in the bushings, and don't seem to have any play. I would just take them off and clean them up. Should I break them down and paint them with some graphite non slip paint? Or should I even worry about it? New bushings?


Thanks! I can't wait to get started!

 

[Sam_Fear]

Have you thought about engine height yet? If you Z the front it raises the motor that much compared to your hood. Don't forget axle to motor clearance too.

Keep the patina - you can paint it later if you want, but you can never go back.

Maybe it's just dirt, but you probably have some cracked leaves. And I doubt those old, stressed front springs will hold up to a BB long if you start removing leaves.

I didn't really answer any questions, did I!

 

[Dragfink]

"Patina" can hide a world of problems, especially on a nearly 60 year old truck frame that was more than likely exposed to alot of abuse!...metal fatigue, cracks, pitts, etc....I think I'd rather be safe than "cool"...blast it, and any problems will show up...fix 'em and paint the frame...

...also, in the pic you posted of the spring pack, there's obviously broken leafs in there...might want to consider replacing them too...you can always channel the cab for some additional inches...;

 

[adam f]

I noticed the bottom leaves were deformed. Never seen that before. I figured they were just bent, not cracked. I still fully plan on tearing them apart and cleaning them. If they are cracked, of course I will replace them.

I should have clarified, I was planning on keeping the patina on the BODY only, I'll completely strip and repaint the frame and axles. There is some rust damage at the front of the rear spring hangers I need to fix too.

I have no idea what the big block will do to the front suspension. It had a flathead it in, which probably weighed 200 pounds less. I figure it might sag a little bit, which shouldn't be too bad. I could add a leaf or 2 if I needed to.

 

[jfg455]

Maybe 4 link the front and the back. They are both solid axles so you could air bag both in the same fashion. air ride can get expensive quick though. just a thought.

 

[adam f]

Id love to use a 4 link and air bags, but thats NOT in the budget. My budget is actually negative, but I'm determined to get this built, safely.

 

[Sam_Fear]

Actually I've been thinking about cheap bag systems. I think you could do one pretty darn cheap. Maybe even using the leafs as your link set up. Basically use your main leaf to locate the axles and the bags take most of the load. (not sure how safe that would be - just an idea)

Idea for cheap bags:
York motor driven compressor and used tank or compressed air tank
Used set of bags
1/4" Hoses and fittings
Manual valves.

The York is from old Volvo's. Bags come up on CL on occasion. You don't need big hoses/valves/etc. unless you want to bounce. A front back system is cheapest, but I hear handling isn't the best.

I bet you could piece one together for 3-400$ easy. Then move up as money allowed.

Again, not sure how safe my spring idea would be.

 

[MR HANEY]

what would happen on the back if you put the diff on top of the springs like an s 10 i had??is there enuff room you would loose about 6 inches and all you have to do is cut off the spring saddles and swap sides![ddev[ddev

 

[HOT40ROD]

what would happen on the back if you put the diff on top of the springs like an s 10 i had??is there enuff room you would loose about 6 inches and all you have to do is cut off the spring saddles and swap sides![ddev[ddev

You would have to notch the frame. There is only about 2 inches when flipping the rear.
You can move the hanger to the top of the frame and get rid of some of the small spring if you are not going to haul with it. Some have flip the rear hanger to have the shackles on top like the newer trucks.

If you want to up date the rear. The 1972 on back Ford pickup rear are a bolt in.

 

[projectF1rat]

I got mine nice and low check out my build. but i z'ed the hell out of the rear and used a single leaf in the front. I started out using orginal stuff but it didnt get low enough. I will post new pics tonight. But with a assembled motor where the cab sits is about 5" of clearance

 

[Farmboy46]

i got a 46 ford truck i z'ed front and back and removed 6 springs on each side in the back but left all the springs in the front, im runnin a small block ford and it sits just right after the engine was in.