need Zing help 50 ford on 63 frame

[icebox]

i am putting a 50 ford cab on a 63 ford frame . i need to z the frame but i need help . i have never done one before . i can weld but i don't know where to get started. an where and what kind of cuts to do to make it look and Be right. here are some pics . please take a look and tell me what

you think i should do.

it will only let me post one pic

 

[icebox]

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d10/iceboxddan/IMG_5783.jpg
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d10/iceboxddan/?action=view&current=IMG_5783.jpg

 

[icebox]

 

[HOT40ROD]

Some questions.

What look are you going for?

Is it going with or without fenders?

Are you using the axles and suspension that is already on the frame?

 

[HOT40ROD]

I have this one low.

Added a early Camaro clip and pro street the back. The center section is the stock 48 frame. And it for sale.

 

[icebox]

i am going to use the straight axle/springs in the front that are original to the frame . i am going fenderless. i want it low to the ground
thanks icebox

 

[HOT40ROD]

That not going to be an easy frame to Z. Being the the front and rear spring hangers are so close to the cab. Unless you lengthen the wheel base.

If not, the vertical part of the frame is going to be straight up and down. I like to have at lest a 60 degree angle.

To start you will need to level and secure the frame so it does not move during the operation. Next you will have to decide were you are going to cut the frame and cut it. which in your case would look like right in front and behind the cab.

After cutting the frame you will need to place the center section at the height you want it. square it and secure it. This is the point were you can start cutting metal and weld everything back together. Keep making measurement to make sure nothing is moving during the welding. The last thing you want is a twist in the frame.

Also before cutting I would weld some square stock from one side to the other side of the frame in front and behind each area you are going to cut. This will help keep thinks in line. maybe even X the center section.

I would also fish plate on the welds on the inside of the frame.

 

[HOT40ROD]

Some other thing you might want to look at before Z ing the frame. In the rear use different spring hangers in the rear. Look at the 48-51 rear hangers they mount higher on the frame and you can turn the rear hanger so that the shackle point up in the air. keep in mind you need a minimum of 3 inches of travel for the rear axle.

In the front look for a drop axle. That way there would not be so much of a drop in the frame whne you Z it.

 

[Sam_Fear]

My thoughts: Cut the rear right in front of the spring hangers, drop it and add an angled piece connecting the bottom of the rear rail and the top of the forward rail - boxing the frame as needed. That would put some of the angle into the cab, but that shouldn't be a problem.

The front, I would seriously consider ditching the original suspension configuration and move the axle out front. So that would mean cutting the front frame where needed and building some redesigning the suspension and probably building new front frame rails, but it will get you low easily and also get you the look you really want.

If you use the stock front suspension, you'll have way to much frame and motor hanging out in front of the wheels and it will look ....uh... ..... not right.

 

[ruggs]

icebox,
I can see ways to get what your after however, It would be much easier to do it with 2X4 tubing than to use what you have. JMO....ruggs

 

[icebox]

finally got the garage done and got the rat rod in it . are there set steps i need follow to get ready to z my frame . ie engine placement . do i need to set the engine into the frame first to figure out where it will have to be for the cab to fit right.
iebox

 

[icebox]

please help

 

[Tim...Ok]

Alot of people like the Z to basically follow the front shape of the cab, but it certainly doesn't have to..can be as close or as far from the cab as you want, depends on the look that you like..I'd say don't worry about the motor placement until you finish the Z..you can set the motor just about anywhere you want after the frame is back together..

I hope this helps some..

Tim

 

[Sam_Fear]

Well, just make sure you have enough room for the motor, fan, and radiator. Try to get the front hubs out as far as the radiator - the frame horns will stick out, but it'll probably look better than the motor hanging over.

Think about how much room the trans is going to take up in the cab. Will you be channeling the cab too? Just measure for the motor if you want, but you could also make a cardboard cut out of it for mock up to get the 'look' right. Make sure your axle will clear the motor. 4" off the ground has been what a lot of people seem to try for. You'll also need to figure in spring compression and tire squat when deciding on your kick-up heights.

Step 1 - measure and brace before cutting!
Step 2 - double check step 1.
If you make ANY changes as you go, stop and make sure it won't affect anything else.

 

[icebox]

well i tried my hand at photoshop tonight. (first time) does this look ok? the pic was old before i lowered the front by flipping the axle.

 

[icebox]

messed around a little more today . this pic is the truck after i flipped the front and rear axle. still need to C notch the rear

 

[Sam_Fear]

Find a cardboard box or anything about the size of your motor and one for the radiator - stick them on there and look at it that way. Where you have the cab now, the motor/rad will be far forward and it'll look like it's gonna fall on it's nose. Move the cab as far back as possible, even if the spring mounts or the rear Z is in the cab a few inches.

 

[Sam_Fear]

Here is a picture inside the Bonehead truck - vertical kickup and front spring mounts are inside the cab.

Definitely a build to read through: Bonehead Truck Build

This is the best example of a nose heavy rat - it's still punky looking:

This is balance - looks low, long, and fast:

This is what you don't want:

The frame sticking out past the wheels is OK, the radiator sticking out will throw off the balance.

What I would do: Measure how much space the motor, fan, and radiator will need. Add 4" to that. Measure that distance from the front of your tires. That's the farthest forward you want your firewall. If you can get it farther back, do. If the cab won't allow it, do what you can. A lot of guys do vertical kickups in the rear, they just need to be gusseted right. If you go vertical, butt the cab up to it. If you do an angle rear kickup, channel the cab over the kick up some if needed.

 

[Dirtyrat]

Definitely find a truck that has the look you are after and start modeling the location of the cab and axles after that, guys here are real friendly and helpful and will give you measurements of their trucks when needed as well...

 

[Sam_Fear]

Some quick photohacks, with representative bed, motor, and radiator.

Set back:

Where you have it now:
IMG]http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=88283&d=1350227906[/IMG]

To show how far I moved the cab. Basically moved the cab back to touch the spring hanger.