Non power disc breaks

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Four wheel disc with no boost is about the same as stopping a factory 55 truck I think.. The MC needs to match your brakes, drum/ disc - disc/disc - drum.
 
Anyone running no power disc breaks? I need to know how to choose the MC correctly. Any help?

Gold03

What car or truck is it? How heavy is it? We run non power 4 wheel discs all the time, but we are talking 1600 lb T Buckets. We use a 1 1/8" bore master with a pedal ratio of 7.5 to 1.
 
I am running disks all around on the A sedan. Mstang II on front some from a 79 lincoln on rear. All I could find at the time in my budget were a PAIR of masters from and old round de rounder we had. I have one for the rear mounted in the floor/pedal, the other is a hand brake set up for the front. Just had to get used to it. Now it is cool.
 
I have a '70 Chevy pickup non power MC with all '83 Olds brakes discfront/ drum rear and proportioning valve from the same Olds. Stops great
 
I am considering this for my 1949 Ford bobber. Weight is to be determined. It won't be as light as a T, but will be lighter than some of the early pony cars that ran manual disc breaks.

I understand the choice of MS bore is real important. The smaller the bore, the easier the pedal. With the trade off of greater pedal travel.

The pedal ratio has to be a manual set up to get the leverage. I would like to use the stock pedal from the 49 Ford. I'm not sure what the ratio is.

Gold03
 
I run manual disc/drum on my 63 F100. Mustang M/C. It made a HUGE difference compared to the old drum/drum. It's still a truck, not a Corvette, but I don't have to try to rip the steering wheel off to stop quick. I figured I could go back and put a bootser on if needed - doesn't need it.

Drum brakes can even work good if they are large enough for the vehicle weight. I had a 64 F250 with bigger drums - it stopped better loaded than the F100 did empty.
 

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