Opinions/thoughts on drag link clearance on left turns

[Dirtyrat]

Just curious if any of you have run into drag link to tire clearance issues on left turns?

I believe my drag link will be an issue with this, and I planned on stepping the drag link by putting a couple bends in it to clear the tire at left full lock.

I'll be working on steering box placement tonight a bit, so I'll probably move it vertically, and also inward to alleviate some of the interference from the tire to the drag link.

(I've been using a piece of 1/2x1/2 angle iron sitting the pivot ball on the pitman arm and steering arm for mock up purposes. I like this because I can see misalignment and angle easily)

 

[Torchie]

Couple of questions DR.....

What are you using for the steering arm that attaches to your drag link?
By moving the box inward what does that do to your steering shaft angle/Dash placement.
The following is just my opinion as I have never done this.
Looking at the draglink on my 41 it is bent in two places to allow for clearence issues. This as stock from the Ford factory. My 41 also has a cross steer set up versus the bump steer setup that you have.( Not making a judgement on your setup. Just can't remember the correct name. ).
I would think that as long as you dont have to step it too drasticly it should work fine. My concern would lay with the drag link ends and wether or not this would cause premature failure from undue stress.
I also have seen where the draglink is placed on the inside of the pitman arm. Between the arm and the frame. Never thought about why they did that but it may have been for clearence issues as well. I know that the big thing on these setups is to keep everything as parralel horizontaly as possible.
Hopefully one of the engineer's on here will comment.
Torchie.

 

[kenny c]

Rich can you put up a couple of pictures so we can see what you're up against. as far as bends in the drag link it is ok to have them as long as the tube the link is made of is strong enough so it won't bend or flex if using tube as opposed to solid bar make sure your bends don't have crimps or crushed spots in the bend areas they will be stronger if they more resemble a mandrel bend. As far as wear on your rod ends it won't make difference, it is still a straight line from end to end.

 

[Dirtyrat]

pics as requested

These are the initial mock up, the box is inward about as far as it can go, and forward as far as I can get it to get the rubber coupler on the steering shaft away from the first exhaust runner.

Anyhow, I was planning on a little kick to clear the tire, and the pitman arm is outward from the steering arm, but not too terrible, so kills two birds with one stone.

I have a piece of angle iron laying across the pivot balls to show me the angle and inclination of the drag link.

 

[Dirtyrat]

I also have seen where the draglink is placed on the inside of the pitman arm. Between the arm and the frame. Never thought about why they did that but it may have been for clearence issues as well. I know that the big thing on these setups is to keep everything as parralel horizontaly as possible.
Hopefully one of the engineer's on here will comment.
Torchie.

The stock Toyota pitman arm had the pivot ball on the opposite side of the arm as you describe. The conversion pitman arm has it on the same side as the F-1 did.
I plan on using a modified stock F-1 drag link for now, I may change it down the road to tie rods, but for now, I'm hoping to just put an offset bend in it, lengthen it and go with it? [S[S

Always open for thoughts/ideas on this setup!

 

[kenny c]

Rich; is there a reason you can't turn the arm on the steering box over. it looks like it would put the drag link more parallel to the frame. It may make it bind at full turn though.

 

[Dirtyrat]

Rich; is there a reason you can't turn the arm on the steering box over. it looks like it would put the drag link more parallel to the frame. It may make it bind at full turn though.

They are tapered spline and cannot be flipped... So I'm not sure I have seen one that is not tapered spline. [S[S

We had talked a bit about moving the pivot ball to the other side, but either way I think I might still need some tire clearance at full lock on the steering shaft, so I figured it would be just as well left alone, but we will see...

 

[Torchie]

Not to sound anymore ignorant than I am. Have you turned the tire to full lock and checked for actual interference?
Also. Is there any kind of a "stop" on your spindle setup?
Is it possible to switch the ball inboard and not flip the arm or is that tapered as well?
If so that looks like it would gain you a fair amount of room.
Keep us posted.
Torchie.

 

[BlueNorther]

I used to buy parts for one of the largest trucking companies, and almost all of the drag links had bends in them for the reasons you state, some as high as 45* at one end.

here's a link to some pics.:

https://www.google.com/search?q=tru...TF4moyAGb14DoAg&ved=0CEkQsAQ&biw=1350&bih=870

be sure to page down as some of the best examples are near the bottom.

 

[BlueNorther]

oh yeah, I would punch both of those balls out of there and use proper tie rod ends, that way they can go on either side or top or bottom.

 

[Dirtyrat]

oh yeah, I would punch both of those balls out of there and use proper tie rod ends, that way they can go on either side or top or bottom.

I think at some point in the future I will go with a tie rod, or maybe even now, I just didn't want to make more work for myself right now, I imagine I can re-engineer it later on... I really wanted to use the stock drag link with some modifications so as not to spend a bunch of money, but the one I have is shot, and I'll be buying a new one for $80, which is the cheapest I've found new... I'm sure I would have more that in a tie rod housing, two tie rods, and the reamer [S

Not to sound anymore ignorant than I am. Have you turned the tire to full lock and checked for actual interference?
Also. Is there any kind of a "stop" on your spindle setup?
Is it possible to switch the ball inboard and not flip the arm or is that tapered as well?
If so that looks like it would gain you a fair amount of room.
Keep us posted.
Torchie.

Well, without a drag link I cant actuate the steering arm with the the steering box
I've manually turned the wheel close to where the brake line fitting would hit the axle (no steering stops yet) and it would easily hit the drag link if it were a straight line from the pitman arm to the steering arm.

I was hoping the steering box stopped its travel before I needed a stop, but if it does not I'll have to add some stops somewhere... I think the stock setup had stops but I can't remember how they were on the stock F1 [S

I'm going to have a look at the pivotball on the pitman arm tonight and see if its welded in or what not, and if it looks like its tapered fitment.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[Torchie]

I was hoping the steering box stopped its travel before I needed a stop, but if it does not I'll have to add some stops somewhere... I think the stock setup had stops but I can't remember how they were on the stock F1

I'll keep you posted.[/QUOTE]

Stops usually also act as locking pins to hold in the kingpin.

The enlarged portion to the stud acts as the stop. I believe that it sticks out towards the rear side of the axle.
See pic below. The stops are about dead center in the pic.
Hope this helps.
Torchie.

 

[Dirtyrat]

Yea, I have those in, but I think the caliper/brake line fitting will be the real issue on the steering stop.

I'm going to use my old steering shaft to mock up a bit before making the final shaft.
There is some pretty severe tire interference if I want more than about 25 degrees of steer at the tire.

I did check the pivot ball on the pitman arm, its welded on both sides, so I think I will just stay the course for now.
I have seen many oddly shaped drag links, so should not be a huge issue I don't think, we will see how crazy it has to be.

 

[Dirtyrat]

I took a good look at the stock ford F-1 steering arm, and I do not see how you would even go about converting to a tie rod, there is little to no clearance under the pivot ball where it crosses the top of the axle when turning....

Stay the course for now I guess, going to probably order a new drag link tomorrow, and try to start final mock up on length and offset(s) in the link to get it right.