Ranchero starting problem... help an old Tripper out!

[Tripper]

The Ranchero has been hassle free for the last 8 years & last week it decided to go on vaca! This is strange (to me at least)... when I crank the engine it starts up right away but when I release the key from the starting position... it quits running. My starter switch was acting up so I replaced it. Glad to get that updated but... no change! Also put on a new starter solenoid... no change!

Anyone?!?

Seems like I know the answer but can't quite bring it back. Just keeping remembering... it's hell gittin' old!!!

BoB

 

[blacksheep]

The Ranchero has been hassle free for the last 8 years & last week it decided to go on vaca! This is strange (to me at least)... when I crank the engine it starts up right away but when I release the key from the starting position... it quits running. My starter switch was acting up so I replaced it. Glad to get that updated but... no change! Also put on a new starter solenoid... no change!

Anyone?!?

Seems like I know the answer but can't quite bring it back. Just keeping remembering... it's hell gittin' old!!!

BoB

You sure you have it hooked up right on the solenoid? I know my old Ford the ignition wire hooks up on the opposite terminal from the starter wire on the solenoid. Sounds like you have your ignition wire hooked up to the start circuit.

 

[Tripper]

You sure you have it hooked up right on the solenoid? I know my old Ford the ignition wire hooks up on the opposite terminal from the starter wire on the solenoid. Sounds like you have your ignition wire hooked up to the start circuit.

Sheep... it's hooked up right. This just started all of a sudden. Does exactly the same thing it did B4 I replaced the parts.

BoB

 

[Bamamav]

Bad switch or broken wire to coil. Hook a wire direct from battery + to coil, if it runs, then you have some checking to do.

 

[blacksheep]

Sheep... it's hooked up right. This just started all of a sudden. Does exactly the same thing it did B4 I replaced the parts.

BoB

I would hook up a wire directly from the positive battery post to your ignition wire ,and see if it starts and runs then. I think you did say you replaced the ignition switch also right?. Can't be too many things besides that. But, usually if it starts while cranking but shuts off after you let go of the key, I would think it has to either be in the switch or somehow the wire is losing 12v. And the only place it gets 12v is at the solenoid. Let us know what you find. You could have a tiny gremlin in there .lets hope not.

 

[kenny c]

if this was a chrysler I would think it was a bad ballast resistor. It doesn't have an ignition system with a resistor or some thing similar?

 

[Tripper]

if this was a chrysler I would think it was a bad ballast resistor. It doesn't have an ignition system with a resistor or some thing similar?

Kenny,
Took that resistor off the car & it was indeed broken. Headed to the auto parts store B4 they close! Thanks!

BoB

 

[soltz]

Tripper you never hot wired you dad's car and took a joy ride[S. The solenoid sends a 12 volt jolt to the coil during start up. Ignition sw sends 12 volts to the resistor.
Have fun.

 

[kenny c]

you're welcome. glad i could help. and happy i got one right for a change.

 

[Tripper]

you're welcome. glad i could help. and happy i got one right for a change.

Although that part was bad... a new one didn't fix it dang it!!!

BoB

 

[Sam_Fear]

If it wasn't the resistor, it's the wire on either side of it or something in that circuit. With the key in the RUN position, you should have 12V on one side of the resistor and ~9V on the coil side.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

sam I think mine had the 12 v on the start side then when running it went threw the resistor to 9 V. sounds like on the key switch (on) you dont have no power to coil. trace from coil back to find out where it stops from being hot .

 

[Yankee Transplant]

I had to disconnect my start voltage on my solenoid , if the battery was low It would not stop turning over the back-feed of the 12 from the coil wouldnt let my starter kick out, It would keep turning over till it melted down or you got the bat. post off

 

[Tripper]

If it wasn't the resistor, it's the wire on either side of it or something in that circuit. With the key in the RUN position, you should have 12V on one side of the resistor and ~9V on the coil side.

sam I think mine had the 12 v on the start side then when running it went threw the resistor to 9 V. sounds like on the key switch (on) you dont have no power to coil. trace from coil back to find out where it stops from being hot .

Yep... definitely in the RUN circuit! I'll try your suggestions 1st thing in the morning... thanks!!!

BoB

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

I have little patience... so my FoMoCo project received the "one wire solution". [ddd

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-850023/overview/make/ford

.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

Doc thats the way I go on all my chevy stuff . Dont know about the ford 1 wire

 

[smallfoot]

What? ya don't think a Chevy one wire will run on a Ford??? hohoho...

 

[Yankee Transplant]

He he .. I dont know about the fords ,, never done much with the ford electronic stuff , I know mine was a pain in the a$$ , I took everything out of a 76 and put in my 65 .. I just run new wires to about everything .

 

[Tripper]

Finally got it running again! While I was at it I decided to go all the way & get new cap, rotor, wires & plugs. Sorta glad I did as the plugs were nasty & #7 & #8 were only hand tight. Runs like a champ now & hopefully will get a lil better gas mileage. I've owned the thing 8 years & never replaced the plugs... BAD Tripper!

Thanks for all the advice guys!!!

BoB

 

[MACKAZ]

Kenny c got in before me. Dang.