Setting up triangulated 4-bar

[cosmic12]

I got a deal on a welderseries tri/4-bar but it didn't come with any set up instrucions and I have never done this before and I don't want to screw it up and have to do it over and over till I get it right.
The frame is from a 39 chevy that I have shortened 10" and used the orig arch but inverted it for the room I need(see pics) I also have not put any cross members except the one you can see because I don't know where they should be yet.
The kit was made for a 32 ford but I have to make due with what I have and can aford.
My question is there any standard measurments or angle's that I can use?
Any ideas here?

 

[cosmic12]

Wonder why it didn't post the pics?

 

[fuzz]

After you browse and select each picture be sure to click on the upload button and wait for it to upload. Then click submit.
About the 4 link, besure the lower bars are parallel to the frame [ to the ground or frame jig] and square. The lower bars locate the rear, the upper bars should be parallel to the lower bars so that the rotate at the same arch. The upper bars are triangulated to limit the side movement of the rear.
There are lots of experienced builders on this site that will help with advice so don't worry you'll get right just take your time and ask lots of questions...

 

[RAT IHC]

A few key points to keep in mind are pinion angle, keeping the upper and lower bars parrallel to each other and keep everything squared up. Also your ride height with tire size.

-Troy

 

[cosmic12]

Thanks guys,

 

[Bonehead]

Lets see if this link works.
http://www.powerblocktv.com/special/4BarLinkV3.0.zip

you need XL on your computer.

I used this one

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/suspension/131_0307_four_link_suspension_part_2/index.html
a few times. It starts with center of gravity, top bolt on the transmission. Height from the ground. Wheelbase, tire height, width. Anti squat is a major deal.

generally top links level, and 75 percent of the length of the lowers.

 

[cosmic12]

http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13773

Here is a link to my build, there are a few pics of the frame at the end,page 5, and where I am at this point.
Just weird I can post pics on the build thread but not in here.

Bone, that is odd that is telling me almost a totaly different way than what I have seen or anyone else is saying about the links being parallel with each other and to the frame or am I reading and seeing it wrong?
Totaly confused

 

[Bonehead]

In the 4x4 world you also look for maximum articulation. Not a concern in hot rods, but squat, and anti squat still come into play.

 

[King Herald]

I have made my top links a little lower at the front, to give anti-squat under acceleration. I've made adjustable mounting points top and bottom so I can play with this should I ever go to the strip.

The closer the links are together at the front (in the vertical plane) the more the axle presses down when torque reaction acts on the links. It tries to act like a big ladder bar.

Have a look in my build-up.

 

[cosmic12]

King, thats a great looking set up you have and makes me wish I had just built a 2x4 frame to start with. I don't need to be that heavy duty because I am only running a Chevy 250/6 power glide It would be nice to have straight rails to square things up, there isn't a flat straight line on my frame anywhere make'n it a pain in the azz.[S
I'm a tin knocker body man not a frame sysp,steering guy.

 

[cosmic12]

WOW! its letting me post pics today![cl

 

[junkdealer2]

A set of aluminum pucks machined for the factory link mounts to pick up a pair of rod ends might be a good start. Then you avoid welding on the center casting.

 

[King Herald]

King, thats a great looking set up you have and makes me wish I had just built a 2x4 frame to start with. I don't need to be that heavy duty because I am only running a Chevy 250/6 power glide It would be nice to have straight rails to square things up, there isn't a flat straight line on my frame anywhere make'n it a pain in the azz.[S
I'm a tin knocker body man not a frame sysp,steering guy.

Just make the brackets and weld to the frame wherever is most suitable. You'll need some odd shaped brackets, but cardboard templates are your friend here. You can see mine go at a funny angle off the inside of the frame kick-up. Yours too can do that.

Or, put a cross member in right where you need the top four bar brackets to go. The lower ones can go straight out the back of the frame curve.

 

[cosmic12]

If it will let me post pics here it is all tacked and rolling.[
Now I need some coil overs