Shorter brake peddle stroke?????

[DynoRon]

I would like to move my brake peddle closer to the firewall to give me more leg room. The pedal ratio is 6.5 to 1. The master cylinder stroke is 1in. The pedal is about 7inches from the firewall. I would like it to be 3 inches from the firewall. Is there a way to shorten the stroke of the pedal and keep the same ratio or is this wishful thinking. The first picture is pedal in no braking position and my ankle is killing me. The 2nd picture is brake fully applied ankle much better.

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[harold]

a bigger diameter master cyl. will take less stroke but more foot pressureor have you thought about hanging pedals under the dashboard.

 

[DynoRon]

Harold, I did look into hanging the pedal under the dash,but I would still have a 6in stroke.
DynoRon

 

[harold]

do you have room to move the m/c into the engine compartment or at least toward the fire wall

 

[harold]

what about a bigger diameter M/C that might reduce the stroke of the pedal but that will also increase the effort.

 

[BillM]

IMHO - could you not just move the seat back some? Your right leg looks pretty bent too!

 

[DynoRon]

Harold
the master has a 1in bore, I think if I go to a bigger bore it still would not give me the 3in pedal stroke Im looking for.

 

[DynoRon]

Bill
The seat is against the Z in the frame rail.

 

[Sam_Fear]

What's on the other side of the firewall? I say cut the wall and cut a space to move the M/C forward. I even dropped my floor pan on the drivers side 3" to give more room.

 

[Old Iron]

Where is the mst cylinder in this pic ?

 

[Old Iron]

This is really your best option.
Build a box on the fire wall that extends into the engine compartment about 3 to 4" mount the brake bracket as far forward as you can and still have the travel.
The hanging reversed master cylinders give the best pedal geometry. The floor mounts put an angle on the foot that is not natural.

 

[Tripper]

I shortened my under the floor MC lever & it works fine but it takes just a lil more foot pressure. I took 1 1/2" out because it made much better placement of the pedal & I also changed the angle of the pedal.

BoB

 

[DynoRon]

[/URL][/IMG]Sam this is what it looks like with fire wall removed. Headers are about 1in from fire wall.

 

[DynoRon]

Old Iron
The master is just of the picture at the lower right corner. It is connected to the blue clevis at the end of the shaft.

 

[Old Iron]

Going from a 1" to 1 1/8 " mst will make the pedal travel 1 1/2 to 2" less, requiring more foot pressure.
You can shorten the pushrod by the same amount rotating the pedal forward.
Or drilling a hole 1" higher and 2" forward of where the the pivot is now and extending the lower point where the pushrod attaches 3/4" more, will do the same thing with the same results.
Ultimately you will gain 2" more leg room.

 

[UncleDonnie]

Is the elephant in the room an under floor MC with a mini booster and better pedal ratio?

Don

 

[deerchooper]

what if you put a bell crank inline to change your ratio? foot pressure will raise but problem solved I think.

 

[zzrodder]

That type of brake pedal is going to be a problem wherever you mount it. When at rest, it is tipped back and at full forward travel, it is tipped forward, making it uncomfortable to operate. It looks like you still have room to move it ahead some - but it won't fix the awkward action. Using a pedal arm like this would be better - mount it under the floor so that only the curved part of the arm comes thru a small hole in the floor, normally in the forward angled portion of the floor at the base of the firewall. That would get the link rod to the master out of the cabin and under the floor, you may need to re-position the master so they line up right. Then you would have the room you need, it would look tidier, work better and more important, be safer.