Steering wheel size

[DozerII]

Hey Guys, looking for a little guidance for the steering on my 28 Dodge. It has a Big Block, MustangII front suspension with air bags and a manual rack. What diameter steering wheel will be best?

Also I got my column 3/4 double D shaft and joints. The joints have two set screws on each end one short and one long, The short one I understand, the long one do you drill all the way through the shaft or only part way?

Thanks

 

[Tripper]

Hey Guys, looking for a little guidance for the steering on my 28 Dodge. It has a Big Block, MustangII front suspension with air bags and a manual rack. What diameter steering wheel will be best?

Dozer, think I'll prob use a 15" wheel on my '28 Dodge. Used that same size on my '41 Ford truck. Prob be a lil tight but you don't need a big wheel with a MII front end!

BoB

 

[skull]

13 inch on the 3Oish with manual rack, Mll front-end and coilover shocks, my car weighs about 23OO lbs and this wheel worked good for me.

Later

 

[kenny c]

I think I would go as big as I could fit comfortably. You can see dash gauges better and it takes less effort to steer, also it would be less twitchy with movement. Just my opinion.

 

[Bamamav]

15" is pretty much normal factory size. I got a 66 Chevelle wheel to use on mine that is 15", but I'm using a 600 series power box.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

The heaviest Mustang II was the fully dressed Cobra II @ 3200 lbs curb weight. To the best of my understanding, any Mustang II with power steering had a 15" wheel. Mustang II's with manual steering had 16" steering wheels.

Whether that info is accurate or not, I agree with kenny c, the largest wheel you feel comfortable with is your best bet for feel and effort.

I'm sure most everybody here has "palmed" a manually steered animal like a seasoned stunt driver... just saying, it's easier with a larger wheel and nobody here is getting any younger...

.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Also I got my column 3/4 double D shaft and joints. The joints have two set screws on each end one short and one long, The short one I understand, the long one do you drill all the way through the shaft or only part way?

Drill a shallow "countersink" for each set screw to the same depth. The screw lengths are likely the same, but the wall thickness is different from horizontal to vertical in a DD joint... so, one screw will stand taller than the other, depending on your perspective and the joint's orientation.

My crayon illustration... the set screws are EXACTLY the same length, but one sticks out more than the other, due to the difference in wall thickness and their "reach" to the DD shaft...

From Ididit and Borgeson...

.

 

[DozerII]

Dozer, think I'll prob use a 15" wheel on my '28 Dodge. Used that same size on my '41 Ford truck. Prob be a lil tight but you don't need a big wheel with a MII front end!

BoB

13 inch on the 3Oish with manual rack, Mll front-end and coilover shocks, my car weighs about 23OO lbs and this wheel worked good for me.

Later

I think I would go as big as I could fit comfortably. You can see dash gauges better and it takes less effort to steer, also it would be less twitchy with movement. Just my opinion.

15" is pretty much normal factory size. I got a 66 Chevelle wheel to use on mine that is 15", but I'm using a 600 series power box.

The heaviest Mustang II was the fully dressed Cobra II @ 3200 lbs curb weight. To the best of my understanding, any Mustang II with power steering had a 15" wheel. Mustang II's with manual steering had 16" steering wheels.

Whether that info is accurate or not, I agree with kenny c, the largest wheel you feel comfortable with is your best bet for feel and effort.

I'm sure most everybody here has "palmed" a manually steered animal like a seasoned stunt driver... just saying, it's easier with a larger wheel and nobody here is getting any younger...

.

Thanks Guys, I will take some measurements today and see how big I can go.

 

[DozerII]

Drill a shallow "countersink" for each set screw to the same depth. The screw lengths are likely the same, but the wall thickness is different from horizontal to vertical in a DD joint... so, one screw will stand taller than the other, depending on your perspective and the joint's orientation.

My crayon illustration... the set screws are EXACTLY the same length, but one sticks out more than the other, due to the difference in wall thickness and their "reach" to the DD shaft...

From Ididit and Borgeson...

.

Thanks Doc exactly what I needed. For some reason all the joints I got have one set screw 1/2"long and one 1"long

 

[Old Iron]

All the joints I've gotten in the last 5 years have had the two different size set screws.
What I do is drill a divot the same depth as the diameter of the screw in question. I cut the longer screw off to length I need, grind a bevel on the end and drill the divot the same depth.
I've drilled the long screw hole most the way through but, it's a pita and just don't do it anymore.
As far as wheel diameter goes, I prefer small dia. wheels but, I don't like them in parking lots so, I carry a spare 17" wheel with me and switch them out as I'm pulling into a parking lot.
Just messin around this morning. [ddd

The wheel on my 33 is 14" after market with a reverse Corvair box and the wheel on my 37 is 17" with a Vega box. The 37 is way easier to manipulate in tight places.
As been said, the Mustang ll does not require as much effort.

 

[DozerII]

Thanks Oldiron. 15 inch is gonna work great.

 

[Bamamav]

I guess I'm paranoid. I'd want to drill all the way through and put a Grade 8 through bolt and a locking nut on it. Never trusted setscrews, no matter how big they were.....

 

[DozerII]

I guess I'm paranoid. I'd want to drill all the way through and put a Grade 8 through bolt and a locking nut on it. Never trusted setscrews, no matter how big they were.....

If it was just set screws I wouldn't trust them but,all the set screws have jam nuts and will get loctite