Recent content by teerex

Before you take this a gospel, I'd check the flammability listing for the material. If I'm going to weld on a tank, my choice of contents will not have an MSDS sheet that describes the proper fire fighting methods. You are dealing with a material that is much like kerosene. The MSDS is...

P.O.S. I'd send the front end back to the sweet-ol-guy that had it previously and move on to better things. By the way P.O.S. = Positively Outstanding Style, but you know that already. Looks great in pictures but better in real life. Hope it leads to great things. Bob

One of the first things to check is engine temperature. If it's low replace the thermostat. A lot of cars of that vintage had the same issues with running rich as the computer would not leave the "choke" mode.

If your feeling lucky the schematic is easy, just hook the black wire to a 12v battery ground and touch each wire to positive to see what lights. I would think any indicator switch from a manufacture like Locar that makes a mechanical contact switch would work.

Regular steel line is difficult enough to flare but stainless would be worse. Try looking for swageloc or swageloc style fittings on Google.

P.S. if the problem is only when it sets for a while, add a shutoff valve to the gas line. Works on my quad runner.

If the carbs leak with a constant head of gas, I'd try to lower the float level to try to increase the sealing pressure on the needle as a quick fix. I'd rule out porous castings as it happened on several carbs. If that does not fix the problem, check the needle and seat for sealing and be sure...