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B.E.D., I've read through the really good thread that was posted on this 'shift it, grind it, pop da clutch' forum that was posted last year, as well as other discussions and there does seem to have alot of opinions out there. The main reason for my post was that the ladder bar brackets...

Rear end question: I am not sure if this is good enough to run. Need some advice. Car is sitting right now at ride height and the ladder bars are adjusted so the coilover shocks (upper & lower mounts) are parallel, but I think we welded the coilover mounts in the wrong spot on the 9" axle. (See...

Here's their photo gallery - http://www.vaautoracing.org/Gallery2.html Check out the rest of the website, too: http://www.vaautoracing.org

Here's how the parts that came in, mocked-up Saturday: I will need to buy shorter shocks if I use these upper shock months. I like the look of these mounts, so I will sell these and buy shorter shocks. The next size down, will fit the front - perfect. So the front seems good-to-go. But, the flat...

thanks for all the help, pics, and the link to see the NTBA shocks page. I would of liked to put the shocks behind the axle (just cuz I like the look of the '47 axle with all the holes that are now milled in it). But there is no room to do that, with the new spring occuppying that space between...

After I made the switch to spring-behind-axle setup to lower the car on my 1947 frame, it's now time to get the shocks back on. Next 3 pics show some choices that I'm pondering: Option #1: Lower mount was the axle, upper mount is some kinda Ford(?) mount. This is how it was setup when I got...

R'cd this private message and I thought this person brought up some intersting discussion points on the setup I am building. Here's his meassge: When I started on my learning curve I wanted to do a set up sorta like you are doing . Most of the time this type set up-spring attached to the...

FINALLY....I got to this point where I could tack weld the tubes in the wishbones, insert the spring perches, add some washers on the other side & nut AND put the car's weight down on the spring......Problem (I think), the shackles are sitting about 75 degrees and not 45 degrees like I was...

dropped pitman arm What is happening is the ball joint movement is 'binding', only when it is pushing the drag link against the spindle arm. If the ball joint that attaches to the 'fabricated' pitman arm on the car now, was in a horizontal postion, I would not have the binding. I was just...

I am moving the axle forward (spring behind axle setup) on a 1947 fordster. The pitman arm that someone fabricated for this car is not going to work now. The ball joint on the swedge / drag link that attaches to the pitman arm sits horizontal. (see pic, sorry drag link should be attached to the...

axle B.E.D. - sorry, should have mentioned the axle is a 10 bolt - Dana 44 (a one wheel wonder with 3.31:1 gears....that's what the tag on the diff cover states anyways). See pics, (air shocks are being dumped, too). I'm probably wrong on all that drum shoe stuff, as my notes from when I did...

I think most of the parts on my rear brakes are 1947 (rear backing plates 42-48?, but not sure, they look like maybe 1949-53). Anyways, I bought a set of shoes in 1993 and the company listed them as 1942-48 shoes. They are 11" x 1.75". (which doesn't make sense as I thought Ford ran 12" shoes on...

cleaning out DOT 3 I was in Napa this morning picking up some new crush washers and the guy at the counter was saying I should flush out the system with alcohol first, to fully clean out the DOT-3, before putting in the DOT-5. I am replacing ALL the wheel cylinders too as well as the MC. I just...

I am installing in a new 39-48 ford master cylinder. Should I bench bleed this first before bolting it in? I only ask because I remember reading somewhere, if it sits level in the car (which it does), bench bleeding the MC is not required... Also, is DOT 5 fluid the way to go? Seems like I eat...

hubs Thanks B.E.D. and Gastrick for confirming my hubs! (I am new at this, but I'm learning). Now.....any ideas how to get the studs out and seperate the hubs from the drums. If I had a blowtorch, I'd probably try that. But I don't. I do have a grinder & BFH...or will my shop press pop 'em out...

really hoping someone can identify my hubs I should state that the reason I need to know what years these hubs are, is that I want to do the Buick drum conversion. I have read on this board that if I do have 1946-48 hubs, that this will be another part that I do not need to find or buy and that...

my other dream car my 1966 fairlane GT/A....with a '66 427 sideoiler mill in her.

Are these 1946-48 ford drums/hubs and backer plates? Does anybody know the shoe width that these should have on them? The shoes on these are 1-3/4" x 12"... Thanks for any help with identifying these for me.

Is there a way to fix this or should I be looking for another axle?

Here's what I'm thinking My machist buddy turned the perches down last night so we have the same thickness all away across the part. We'll then make a close tolerance fit tube for each perch and I'll set them up and weld the perch tube into the wishbones. Then I'll insert the perches into the...