125% Model A Roadster

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Here's the last of what I have so far. A couple of things in these. The 14 gauge firewall is visible. The shot from the back shows the bracket for the CNC Reversed Brake pedal that I have. Also, The fishmouthed tubing running down the side of the frame will hold 1.5" tubes to run the water to a rear mounted radiator. There's a matching set on the opposite frame rail. One side is feed the other return. I have an electric pump that goes in the rear to help out. I didn't want the hot water running through the cab.
 

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Thanks for all the nice words about the build. I've enjoyed posting and gotten a lot out of reading all the other build posts on the site. I love how everyone goes about things a little differently depending on what they have to work with and things. Lots of innovation.

I really appreciate how this site isn't just one person after the next telling you how what you've done sucks.
 
Thanks for all the nice words about the build. I've enjoyed posting and gotten a lot out of reading all the other build posts on the site. I love how everyone goes about things a little differently depending on what they have to work with and things. Lots of innovation.

I really appreciate how this site isn't just one person after the next telling you how what you've done sucks.

I don't think I've heard too many cross words on here. When they are posted our Mod takes care of em![cl...Nice build by the way.... looks as strong as a top fueler!:D.....CR
 
Your building a truely unique chassis. I need to see more to understand your front suspension. What kind of tubing bender are you using? Also, what are you using for an electric water pump?
Keep up the great work.
 
Your building a truely unique chassis. I need to see more to understand your front suspension. What kind of tubing bender are you using? Also, what are you using for an electric water pump?
Keep up the great work.

In this picture the red would be the torsion arms with the blue being the shackles running up to normal spring mounts (just upside down in the axle). One of the red lines goes to the wrong hole, but you get the idea

My waterpump is a Stewart. I welded some tabs to the back of the chassis so it'll bolt right up after paint

The guy bending my tubing is using a Hossfeld(spelling?)
 

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That front suspension is a nice clean setup--what torsion bars are you useing?

I like the idea of a skinned roll cage street car--do good seats and 3" belts and it'd be the kind of a thing you could put a big HP motor in.

PA41
 
That front suspension is a nice clean setup--what torsion bars are you useing?

I like the idea of a skinned roll cage street car--do good seats and 3" belts and it'd be the kind of a thing you could put a big HP motor in.

PA41

They're from Diversified Machine. The people at Schroder were jerks.

Thanks for the compliments
 
That looks like an awesome frame,very different also.certainly looks rigid enough for some serious racing. Cant wait to see your work on the body.
Keep us posted.
 
That looks like an awesome frame,very different also.certainly looks rigid enough for some serious racing. Cant wait to see your work on the body.
Keep us posted.

Thanks to everyone for all the nice comments. Right now I think I'm going to sandblast what I have, paint, assemble, and drive sans body. I'm really getting impatient to drive this thing and that's now a good state to be in when you're trying to build a nice body. Hopefully after I can get something togeather as I'm enjoying driving the bare chassis around.

I'd really love to come up with a nice body + a bed to make it an RPU!
 
Looks like you have done this before, Very well planned and layed out. Great job, wouldn't worry too much about not using DOM, should be plenty stout.

Did you use a CAD system to do the lay out? Some of the plates look like laser or water jet cuts.

One suggestion...your roll bars (hoops) are welded on top of an unsupported span of tubing. Would be much stouter (more protection) if you had placed the vertical spacing tubing directly under the legs of the hoops (would have required two more vertical runs.

You can still give it some better protection if you triangulate two tubes under each hoop in a "V" down to the next horizontal tubing. Wouldn't recommend a plate gusset in that application.

Great job. Keep the pictures coming.

Have you had a chance to check out the F-2 Stang?
 
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Looks like you have done this before, Very well planned and layed out. Great job, wouldn't worry too much about not using DOM, should be plenty stout.

Did you use a CAD system to do the lay out? Some of the plates look like lazer or water jet cuts.

One suggestion...your roll bars (hoops) are welded on top of an unsupported span of tubing. Would be much stouter (more protection) if you had placed the vertical spacing tubing directly under the legs of the hoops (would have required two more vertical runs.

You can still give it some better protection if you triangulate two tubes under each hoop in a "V" down to the next horizontal tubing. Wouldn't recommend a plate gusset in that application.

Great job. Keep the pictures coming.

Have you had a chance to check out the F-2 Stang?

Thank you.

I have checked out the the F-2 Stang. Very nice work. That's the kind of thing that inspired my build for sure.
 
All I can say is WOW there is a lot of skill and imagination in that frame, VERY nice work !!!
Ok now throw a rotted out body on top of it and go scare some old people [ddev
 
Nice build definately. I love raw metal before it is all covered in paint. I also applaude your interpertation of a 4 bar front end. Anyone can bolt together a 4 bar drop axle or a mustang 2 front end but it takes stones to design, build and trust your own suspension. Bravo!! [cl
 
Here is a small update of sorts. The rear torque arm for my Dana 60 was put togeather, but didn't line up just right. Yesterday I finally got a chance to tear it apart and using the right bolts get it togeather nice and square. The entire thing is TIG welded. It runs up to a dog bone (female and male rod end threaded togeather) up near the tail shaft mount of the driveshaft. The plate bolts to the hoops with the use of some weld in threaded bungs from the chassis shop. The pilot holes that can be seen in the cross tubes will be enlarged to whatever they need to be and then a large diameter bolts will come in from the top and bottom to "capture" the pinion so it can't rotate. I'll probably use some sort of bumper on the end of those large bolts.
 

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