1952 F-6 Build

[zzrodder]

Lookin' good! [cl
The old seats were definitely a recipe for a sore neck...

 

[jfg455]

You might get more done on the truck if you kicked that squatter out of the cab...[cl

Looking good Torchie. Nice work all around.

 

[Old Iron]

Looks like the decision has been made for ya.
If you put a raised divider between the passengers say for coffee/soda cups then, it would resemble buckets.

 

[Torchie]

Lookin' good! [cl
The old seats were definitely a recipe for a sore neck...

You said it ZZ. Got enough sore parts without adding to them.

You might get more done on the truck if you kicked that squatter out of the cab...[cl

Looking good Torchie. Nice work all around.

That's my helper dog. If I am under a car she will crawl under there with me. lol. She still has problems telling the difference between a 1/2 " socket and a 9/16 though.

Looks like the decision has been made for ya.
If you put a raised divider between the passengers say for coffee/soda cups then, it would resemble buckets.

I prefer bench seats myself OI. And a bench was in my original 'Vision".[S
But with my budget(Or lack thereof) I had to try use the seats that I had on hand and those cloth buckets seemed most likely to work with the least amount of mods.
But since I am going to build a seat now, we are going back to my original plan to use a bench.(cue up Billy Preston's song "Will it go round in a circle")
Torchie.

 

[Torchie]

Took a little break for making dust today......

And started in on making the much talked about bench seat.
Like many of us the build budget is always hovering some where over are heads so I'm going to make the seat using what I have lying around the shop. Also that's what makes us good RRR builders.(Recycle-Reuse-Reduce)[cl

Pic 1-3. I really wanted to use the OG bench but it is way to big, So I did a little dissecting and came up with some useable parts. The bottom cushion inner frame that holds the spring and had the tracks bolted to them.And the og track system.
The problem with the F-1 track system is that it is way too tall and after looking at it I decided that there was no way to section them enough so that goes back to the parts pile.

Pics 4-7. I took the tracks off one of the bucket seats. Of course they are just short of reaching the tube frame work front to back so I made up a couple of extender pieces from some angle.
So now we have a adjustable bottom seat frame.

Pics 8-10. Found a "Close but no cigar" piece of OSB up in the rafters and now we have a seat (Sort of).
Try'd it on for size. Clearence between the belly and the steering wheel is ok, but it still but my eye level higher than the flat seat mock up that I did.

So I trimmed down the track risers to level out and lower the seat. It's better.
I will live with it this way for a while. The only way to get it lower would be to mount the tracks to the seat board instead of the tube frame. That would drop it down another inch.
I know that to some all this seat stuff seems nitpicking. But in my experience with chopped and chaneled cars, every inch counts.
Back on the body work tomorrow. PS door.
Thanks for your comments and for looking in.....
Torchie.

 

[Old Iron]

If you mounted the frame on top of the OSB, it would lower the seat another 1" or so.
The seat cushion, you use, will keep the frame from messing with the back of your legs.
Use a shorter bolt here or cut these off, drill holes in the OSB to go around the nuts.

Use carriage bolts down through the perimeter of the frame a OSB for this part.

 

[Old Iron]

My wife Judy, liked this pic so much she had me make it my desktop
Said it has all the fall colors. What a girl

 

[soltz]

Torchie, I like your creativity. I was wondering about cushion height [S I'm keeping an eye on this, I'm thinking about taking the sprint down and channeling it, it's just not low enough (IMO) but I only have one inch of head room now, I'm thinking flat floor but the seat has to adjust so the short one can reach the pedals and she doesn't have to worry about head room.

Keep it up [cl

 

[Torchie]

My wife Judy, liked this pic so much she had me make it my desktop
Said it has all the fall colors. What a girl

If you mounted the frame on top of the OSB, it would lower the seat another 1" or so.
The seat cushion, you use, will keep the frame from messing with the back of your legs.
Use a shorter bolt here or cut these off, drill holes in the OSB to go around the nuts.

Use carriage bolts down through the perimeter of the frame a OSB for this part.

You and me are pretty much riding on the same train of thought OI.
That was going to be my next step once I cut a sheet of OSB and get back working on the seat. What I have done in the past is to modify the bolt heads or take a carriage bolt as you suggested and ground of the square area under the bolt head so that they sit flat aganst the metal frame. There are options.

Torchie, I like your creativity. I was wondering about cushion height [S I'm keeping an eye on this, I'm thinking about taking the sprint down and channeling it, it's just not low enough (IMO) but I only have one inch of head room now, I'm thinking flat floor but the seat has to adjust so the short one can reach the pedals and she doesn't have to worry about head room.

Keep it up [cl

Thanks soltz.
I agree on the seat adjustment. I'm 6'3- ish and with my fake leg there are only a certain amount of cars that I can drive. Nothing with a center console.
And not that I am building this ride to sell, but someone else being able to drive it other than me is also a consderation.
As far as cushion height goes that's one of the considerations as to why I want the frame as low as it will go.
At this time I am thinking not much more than 2" of GOOD padding. I know it doesn't seem like much but if the correct stuff is used it works well.
Plan is to get back to the PS door tomorrow and then before I hang them do some more on the seat. Once the bottom is set then I want to take a look at the back rest.
Torchie.

 

[Old Iron]

"ground of the square area under the bolt head so that they sit flat aganst the metal frame."
If you drill the size hole for the carriage bolt say 5/16" through the tubing then, on which ever side the shank will be, drill the next size up for the square shank 3/8", the nut will pull the square shank into the hole nicely so the head will sit flat and you won't have to grind the square shank round.

 

[Old Iron]

Another option would be to weld tabs to the bottom of the frame, cut the plywood to the inside of the frame dimensions, bolt the plywood to the tabs then, the seat bottom and the frame would be on the same level.

 

[Torchie]

"ground of the square area under the bolt head so that they sit flat aganst the metal frame."
If you drill the size hole for the carriage bolt say 5/16" through the tubing then, on which ever side the shank will be, drill the next size up for the square shank 3/8", the nut will pull the square shank into the hole nicely so the head will sit flat and you won't have to grind the square shank round.

You are right OI. But thats too easy......
Torchie.

 

[Torchie]

Another option would be to weld tabs to the bottom of the frame, cut the plywood to the inside of the frame dimensions, bolt the plywood to the tabs then, the seat bottom and the frame would be on the same level.

That would work as well OI. Thanks for the ideas. I was out looking at the tracks agin and I believe that I can get them lower yet as well.
Wasn't planning on doing anything in the shop today but you know how it is when you get an itch.....[ddd
Before I can start the filler work on the PS door I needed to weld some rod on to the door edge that faces the cowl to tighten up that gap. I did this edge on the DS door while it was on the cab and decided that on the PS I would weld it off the cab.
Just a couple of pics as to not bore everyone. Tacked first on the back side. Then flip the door and go at that side. [[[[[[.
We need a grinding smilies as well.
Torchie.

 

[christcrusader13]

Looks good Torchie!!!!

 

[Torchie]

PS door inside done.
Outer side tomorrow.
Torchie.

 

[christcrusader13]

PS door inside done.
Outer side tomorrow.
Torchie.

Is that factory door height?[S

 

[Torchie]

Is that factory door height?[S

4" chop cc. [ [cl
Torchie.

 

[christcrusader13]

4" chop cc. [ [cl
Torchie.

There iss no way it's chopped.... it looks factory fresh

 

[Torchie]

There iss no way it's chopped.... it looks factory fresh

Thanks for the kind words cc.

Getting colder here with no let up in sight so I finished up the PS outer door.
With the exception of shooting some epoxy on these doors (Temp permitting) this will be the end of the body work till spring. These doors and the cab are at what I would call the half way stage. From here on it should be a matter of High build primer. Some spot putty and lots and lots of block sanding.
I will work on the front fenders when possible as at this stage it is mostly welding and a modifacation to the lower corners.
Plan on putting away the body tools and getting some OSB out of the rafters to use on the seat tomorrow. Also need to cut some door hinge shims before hanging the doors.
Thanks for stopping by.......
Torchie.

 

[Torchie]

Looks like Thursday is going to be a wash as far as the project goes so I went back out into the shop and started on the seat.
Cut a piece of OSB. Cleaned up the seat bottom frame and spent some time staring at the tracks to come up with a plan to get them lower.
Thanks for looking......
Torchie.