1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser

[DJ3100]

I used a Newport wiper system on the 50 GMC panel that I built. Worked very well..Did you go with an intermittent system? They didn't make that back when I did mine.
Torchie.

Nah, just went with the 2 speed. I have used the wipers in my '53 twice in 7 years. We have very few surprise rainstorms around here. They are mainly to comply with the law.

 

[DJ3100]

Under the dash

The wiper motor and the evaporator want to occupy a small section of the same real estate. Not a big deal and not as bad as I thought it might be.

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This is a shot form the floor up. The evap takes up most of the glove compartment. There is less than 1 inch between it and the bottom of the dash.

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[DJ3100]

Rear floor

Here's a couple shots of the rear floor and tunnel. After I DA'd the tunnel the camera could decide on a focus. I used Duplicolor Rust Reformer on the front section. I have some SEM rust reformer that I like better that I think I'll use on the hump over the axle. The whole interior will get Duplicolor bed liner like the area behind the wheel tub. And a lot of seam sealer.

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[skull]

seat

l like the front seat rails, good idea l may have to "borrow" for one of my builds.


Later

 

[DJ3100]

l like the front seat rails, good idea l may have to "borrow" for one of my builds.


Later

I modified the Mustang seat tracks so they would fit the flat rails. Didn't take any pics of the seat tracks though.

The rails are 1 x 2 box with 3/4 diameter x 1 long threaded spacers welded to both the top and bottom. The seats bolt to them without having to reach under the car to install and remove the seats. They are welded to the floor supports.

 

[I-R-POPS]

That's some fine work right there my friend.
Is that a Vintage Air universal fit A/C system? That is a must have
item on my list for my '47 Dodge shop truck. I just hope I have the room.
Looking great.

 

[DJ3100]

That's some fine work right there my friend.
Is that a Vintage Air universal fit A/C system? That is a must have
item on my list for my '47 Dodge shop truck. I just hope I have the room.
Looking great.

Thanks.

Yes, it is the universal fit. But you won't need the Gen IV. I have a Gen II in my '53 Chevy pick-up. It is cheaper, smaller and works great, even in Arizona.
I still have room in the Chevy's glove compartment for a stereo.

 

[gold03]

Nice welding jig table. Called an Acorn here in Canada I believe. There has been one advertised for sale here for $800. I don't have room

 

[DJ3100]

Front sheet metal

I want to get the new radiator support made before I pull the body off the frame, so I put the front fenders on.

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The passenger fender looks pretty good, but the driver's fender is beyond my ability and desire to fix. Not sure of the solution.

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I'm thinking my fuse panel will go in the space between the inner and outter fender. There is room for the PCM on the inner fender toward the front - that would keep the length of the engine harness as is -but it would be ugly.

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The new radiator is 26" wide - about 6" wider than he original Ford. Both radiators are 19" tall. Happily the fan will be centered on the radiator. It should be pretty easy to trim the inner fenders 3" and add new holes. The radiator support is under construction.

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[skull]

fan

that is one big fan

Later

 

[Flipper_1938]

I'm thinking my fuse panel will go in the space between the inner and outter fender. There is room for the PCM on the inner fender toward the front - that would keep the length of the engine harness as is -but it would be ugly.

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Maybe hide the ecm in the fenderwell?

 

[DJ3100]

Maybe hide the ecm in the fenderwell?

I haven't checked it out yet, but if it fits, I think that would be a good location.

 

[DJ3100]

PCM

I tried out Flipper's suggestion. Somehow that PCM wasn't nearly as big as I remembered it. I think it and the throttle-by-wire box will both fit in there and still there might be room for the fuse panel.

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Here's the beginning of the radiator support dogged down to the platen.

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[Flipper_1938]

I tried out Flipper's suggestion. Somehow that PCM wasn't nearly as big as I remembered it. I think it and the throttle-by-wire box will both fit in there and still there might be room for the fuse panel.

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Maybe turn it 90 degrees so that the plug is to the rear. That way you can run the harness "in the shadows" and drop it down the back of the fenderwell and across low on the firewall and up the back of the motor (not a fan of seeing harnesses).

 

[DJ3100]

Maybe turn it 90 degrees so that the plug is to the rear. That way you can run the harness "in the shadows" and drop it down the back of the fenderwell and across low on the firewall and up the back of the motor (not a fan of seeing harnesses).

Yeah, I think I might be able to hide the harness a little. There is a cover plate that will go over that hole. Part of my concern is getting the truck harness to reach the PCM without a lot of modification. I have kind of given up on worrying about what shows - I think these engines are pretty ugly unless you spend $$$$ on intakes and engine covers. At any rate, I'm happy to have a location and options.

DVAP had a driver's side fender advertised as "nice". I might check that out tomorrow.

 

[Flipper_1938]

This is what the cool kids are doing with ugly truck intakes.

How to video:

http://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A

and one with a piece of aluminum added to the top (glued?)

 

[Bamamav]

I saw one on the Hot Rod website that they made a old set of of Oldsmobile valve covers work for coil covers, then ran a throttle body injector and hid it under a old Caddy dual inlet air cleaner.

 

[Flipper_1938]

I like the "tunnel ram" proportions of the truck manifold. I plan on smoothing mine over similar to the ones above.

Also, running the harness under the manifold should help clean things up a bunch.

 

[DJ3100]

This is what the cool kids are doing with ugly truck intakes.



When I first got the engine I got excited about smoothing the intake. I was ready to take it on, when I remembered the wiring harness. It runs across the top of the manifold. I would like to use the stock harness because the new ones cost between $500 and $1500 and then what happens if it doesn't work? I decided an engine cover might be easier for me - just hide the whole mess with some aluminum without doing all the plastic welding, filling and sanding.

The intake is hiding under there somewhere.

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[DJ3100]

I saw one on the Hot Rod website that they made a old set of of Oldsmobile valve covers work for coil covers, then ran a throttle body injector and hid it under a old Caddy dual inlet air cleaner.

I saw that one too. Very cool. So far my engine is black and aluminum with the intent of keeping the hood closed.