1956 F100 Angry Bird

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Hi Flipper - check out my intro page - rather than get ahead of myself on this "un-real time" build thread!

Front sits about 1" lower than the rear. Fully loaded, the front subframe has 1.5" clearance.

John L.
 
Thanks for the interest! I really wish I had found this site earlier. Reminds me of the MG site I belong to, with more encouragement than flames. Also open minded in terms of individual tastes. Without getting hung up with terminology, like hot rod, rat rod, street rod, blah blah, etc.

Onward with the timeline. I am anxious to catch you all up with present, before it goes on the road for the second time!

I wanted to get my chosen wheels on order, as they would be a custom offset, and pattern (T-bird used a metric pattern). I chose the American Racing Torque Thrust wheel in 18" polished aluminum. The fit was so unusual that my tire guy came out to my shop and spent two hours measuring and remeasuring to make sure. In the end, we decided to only order one side, just in case. When they got here, they fit perfectly. The tire shop "loaned" me some used low profile tires to do the testing, but in the end, they gave them to me, because the second set of wheels took forever to get.

I cut the bed to allow clearance at the low end when the tires would splay inward. Later I would add tubs.
 

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So after the wheel fitting, my objective was to trailer it into town to get a real exhaust system on it, then over to the State Patrol to get a provisional title and registration.

In keeping with the T-bird routing, the ends would exit right behind the rear fenders on each side. I also wanted quiet. Mainly because I am planning some long road trips with it, but also because I don't want to sound like a rice burner with the V-6. I'd rather keep people guessing what is inside when it beats them off the line.

All went well with exhaust install and inspection. Although the inspector wanted to give me some angst because the frame VIN# was partially blocked by the PO having welded a patch over it. Then the local registration office computers were down, but I went to another license office close by and got the deed done!
 

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south

you ever get down to Centralia?

if so get ahold of me:)

June 28 the billetproof show has city wide drive around style after party, usually goes to about 11pm. l went a few years ago and seeing all the cool stuff driving around was awesome.

Later:cool:
 
Centralia's a ways away. Almost like a foreign country. Oh, wait, I only live 1 mile from Canada...

Got to the Puyallup swap meet twice last year, Long Beach rod run two years ago with my MGA coupe. But I am wanting some longer road trips this year after the truck is put back together. Any rat rod shows down your way? I know there's one in Everett I may try out.

Out in the shop today (left over spring break) formalizing my air bag system. Then it is the fuel pump/sending wiring and I may be able to plunk the cab back on for fit. Oh, wait, that's "real" time. I will catch the postings up with it by next week I think.

Thanks for sticking with me on this "catch-up" build everyone.

John L.
 
Just now needed a back-up pic to reassemble the compressor, so thought I would include the original mock-up arrangement now that I found the image. I made a platform under the passenger side cab, with access through the original battery box floor board hole. I used an early (53-55 F100) gas tank/running board bracket which has the flat mounting base to support the wood base (thought the wood would provide best dampening).

John L.
 

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There were only a few details I wanted to finish up before making the local summer car show. I dressed up the interior a bit with the T-bird console fitted over the tunnel that was shown in an earlier post.

The stereo was a must. The reverse camera was not. (But it ended up very useful, and was one of those eye raisers for sure!)

The electric seats were fully operable. Although the air operated lumbar and bolster cushions still didn't work. Not a big priority.

The temporary floor covering is an exercise mat I bought for $10. Pretty tough stuff.

I planned on running without a hood in the short run, and it seemed the stock radiator shroud might look better if it was lowered. The T-bird radiator did not interfere, so I wacked the shroud off. I liked it.
 

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And then finally, there was the matter of an appropriate door sign. I had been studying this for quite awhile, and had the basic concept down. I wanted something that would be easily recognized and still be a statement for the truck.

That's where the Angry Bird theme seemed suitable. It reflected well with what is the heart of the truck, but still edgy enough and recognizable enough to fit.

I thought my youngest daughter, who had just graduated with a media arts degree, would be a willing volunteer. Yeah right. Like I was a willing candidate to help MY dad when I was 22. But she did do the templates for me, in the Angry Bird font. Then I simply enlarged and shrunk on a printer to the size that looked the best.

Other than the T-bird turquoise, all the colors were available for use in a paint pencil format, which made for easy free hand drawing. In the end, I didn't like the large white area, and a friend suggested the "Est. 1956" to fill it in.

Weathering was done with 800 grit wet sanding, simply sanding until satisfied. I would have like to rid it of more of the white circle, but wanted the black lettering to be visible. Otherwise I was happy with the outcome.

The final touch - an angry bird in place of the Moon eyes, in the traditional location.

It was time for the car show!
 

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I know you didn't ask for my opinion yet, but you were just going to, right. I hope you will end up with the hood on there. To me, everything newer than 1936 should have a hood or at least the front section of the hood. :cool:
You've done a lot of work, a lot of very nice work.
Keep on tinkering.
 
So the car show was revealing to say the least. It brought out both the good and the bad in attitudes. It might tell you something that I was the only rat rod entry out of 250 cars. But after all the attention it got, I am thinking I will see more entries next year.

By and large, far more positives than negatives. It drew more attention than the finished cars around it, with many viewers leaning over the bed to wonder what was going on with that strange rear end. Also a lot of head scratching by the old timers looking at the choice of engine.

My truck is now known locally as the Angry Bird. I like it! It seemed to strike a chord with young and old.

I drove it all last summer, improving bits and pieces, but mostly taking notes of what to change and improve in the winter season. I delayed as long as possible as I was enjoying driving it more than any vehicle I have owned. It handled and took corners better than my MG sports cars. In more comfort for sure.

I should mention that I took it somewhat easy in driving it, as I was quite conscious of the unstiffened frame. However, I didn't fully appreciate the super charger until midway through the season, when I realized that it hadn't even been functioning. I had put a vacuum check valve on backwards, and it was not allowing the boost solenoid to kick in. Once I figured that out, it was hard not to stomp on it. It even lights up in the shift into second.

So finally, I can get more current with this build! I am currently getting anxious to put it back together, and once again am targeting a car show for incentive. This one is scheduled for the Memorial Day weekend, so we will see...
 

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You know what Mercury Mac? I agree with you!

However, I do like the open look, especially to showcase the engine. But the sides and front need to be trimmed out for sure. I did a faux rust job on the current bright yellow hood which isn't original to the truck, but wasn't happy with the outcome. The rust looks too new! So I have been tinkering with that aspect for a bit.

But what I really have in mind is to cut out a top panel section that can be lifted off when desired. It may extend down the sides but not so far as to lose the curve appeal of the hood to fender juncture.

Has anyone seen this done on this era of vehicle?
 

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I know what you mean on showing the motor, as the hood on them doesn't open very far. I have a fairly unique motor in mine, too, but don't show it much.
I've been using some dark brown camouflage paint to darken and dull other paints. Just a light mist of camo might do it for you. Sometimes I spray two or three light coats of flat but different colours, all while they're still wet for better blending.
 
I sprayed some Ospho on one patch and it darkened it, but it still looked too much like a holstein cow. So I did some more metal overlay to fill in the gaps and it looks a little better. But I am thinking a mist coat like you suggest may take the sharpness away.

That was the last thing I did last season, and I think it may be the last thing I do this year. I still enjoy the open hood feel, and it does attract a lot of surprised looks when they see it isn't an old truck engine...

Here's how it looked on the road when I finished last season.

END PART I !!
 

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Part II - Finally

So I started by taking everything you've seen me build up so far, back to a bare frame! My intention was to strengthen the inards, while wanting to maintain the bad ass outer shell. (A term I learned from comments of many younger rat rod fans who critiqued my truck.)

So the pics show where I started this past January. I wanted to start at Thanksgiving, but my wife's horse stall project go in my way. And continued into my usual Christmas break. But you know what? I have learned that my wife's hobby is important to the maintenance of MY hobby. Need I say more?

John L.
 

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I wanted contrasting colors for the frame and suspension, but wanted them dark enough to not be a distraction inside the wheel wells. I started with Rustoleum smoke gray, but tinted it 6:1 to get it to the color shown. I was pleased with the result. I added 10% acetone, and some enamel hardener and got my shop up to degrees to spray.

The front end was refreshed with new ball joints, tie rod ends and bushings. Actually the ball joints looked worse than they really were, but all needed new dust covers, so I just replaced them with new.

Next I painted the IFS/IRS in black, along with many trim parts. I masked off aluminum parts to have that as a third color. I was happy with the overall result.
 

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