42 Ford p/u build

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stovebolt

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
123
Location
Reeds,Mo
well my son and i finally started yesterday on my 42 ford p/u bobber,rat rod,traditional rod whatever build. using a frame of unknown origin,but it was free and rear clip from 79 cutlass,also free. trim out rear sub and cut and widened frame to slip over rear clip. right now it looks like 42 cab,37 bed,307 olds and turbo 350 and vega steering. front suspension will be 48 ford pass car axle with split bones(also free) going to be cheap build!!going spring behind axle up front. looks like wheelbase will be about 115 inches. for you guys who have built this type of car before will that work out ok or am i a little long?? will post pics soon. thanks
 
stovebolt, you know this crowd. Without pictures, we're all stupid.

Anyhow, I don't see any flaws in your thinking or the parts you are using. Lots of people here have built long wheelbase hot rods and like them that way.

Good luck on the truck, and don't forget the pics.
 
I have a spare security token for sale cheap - $50. :D I believe it has to do with your browser settings.

115" isn't bad at all, especially with a suicide axle. Several builds on here have been 125-135".
 
42 ford

ok i have probably a dumb question. i'm planning on running 8 degrees camber on front axle. do i set that ith the frame level in my jig or do i need to compensate for rubber rake? and i think front spring should be level and just axle at 8 degrees. what do you think?
 
I'm sure you mean caster, not camber. I run around 5 degrees but 8 is fine too. The 8 degrees is with the frame sitting at the angle it will be when the rod is done. If you draw a vertical line through the axle it should be tilted back 8 degrees from straight vertical.

If you are using the '48 axle with the '48 wishbones and the stock spring in front of the axle, it is best if you tilt the spring the same as the axle.
 
thank you i did mean caster. i guess i can determine angle by mocking up frame, mounting some tires close to the size i want to run,find angle of frame and then set axle to 8 degrees.
 
I think I got pic posting problem solved. found out front axle is 33-34 ford as it has 36" perch bolt spacing. will post more pics later today
 

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more pics. have started to weld up frame and box it. front suspension is tacked in place. not happy the way spring perches are working out. model a spring to long and model t is little short. really don't want to go custom main leaf. I guess if I reinforce perches it will work. what you think?
 

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I don't think hose spring eye mounts will work like you have them set up right now. They are in a shear type load instead of a compression load.
 
didnt the way those front spring perches turned out so I redid them today. put model a spring back in and made some new spring shackles. I think this will work out much better
 

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I think your just as bad off in the second set up. The way you sit now, your axle is actually shortening the spring. If you prop the axle and put the weight of a car on that spring it will push out and your shackles will be almost hitting the mounts. Well, maybe?

You should start a new thread asking for help on this so some of the guys that do know what to do will be sure to see it. You don't wanna find out why they call them suicide axles.
 
I agree Sam, That shackle angel is a problem. Bite the bullet and get the proper length spring and go back to the first set of shackles. BUILD IT SAFE!!
 
I don't have as much experience with these front ends as a lot of other guys on this site but, I would like to see the spring mounts ( the part that your shackles bolt to that are mounted to your radius arms) going vertically down through your radius arm and axle instead of that big bolt you are using. That's just the way I have done it and I'm pretty sure it would have came like when it was built. It definitely is not optimum right now. The spring will probably hit the top bolt on the shackle as soon as you hit a bump or maybe even put the weight of the vehicle on it.
 

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