50s Ford F1 Build

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
just an FYI some of those racks go for big bucks new. Post them on CL and get some dough back. I used to fix them all the time for a large Electrical contractor (84 vans) and paying me $100 to repair/rebuild was cheaper than they cost new.
 
I like your build already, but you have my undivided attention with the LP injection and plans for a supercharger! [dr

Vapor systems were very popular here in the 70's, 80's and early 90's. I worked for a fella who did conversions and he also ran a drag car on the stuff for a number of years. Anyhow, I'll be watching where this goes and I applaud you for taking the road less traveled! [cl
 
just an FYI some of those racks go for big bucks new. Post them on CL and get some dough back. I used to fix them all the time for a large Electrical contractor (84 vans) and paying me $100 to repair/rebuild was cheaper than they cost new.

Yep they will be going on CL this weekend to try to put some cash back in the bank... funds are getting low with all this right now...

And DR C, thanks for the comments, yea, I kinda wish the government would get on board with propane... seems like such a simple idea... we have some infrastructure already too... much safer than CNG... blah, but no one is lining their pockets to fund propane as much as the other BS electric car bullcrap where we wont have a batter breakthrough for 10-15 years that would make it worthwhile... and besides... what are we burning to make that electricity for the most part? I'm guessing Coal...

I digress... hoping to do a little frame welding tonight after work before I pick up my munchkin for the weekend! [cl
 
not a lot of interesting progress, didn't really get much done friday. Weekend was family time.

I have a wheel bearing going bad on the altima, so ordered those sunday, should have them tomorrow from Rockauto.com.

Tonight I stripped more parts off the donor van, seats, grille, whole front end I pulled apart what I could get apart without a sawzall, pulled the intake piping, and the drive by wire throttle pedal. Also rolled the motor over by hand, everything seems free and good *fingers crossed*

Hoping after another couple nights working on it to have the motor and trans ready to pull
 
Might not seem interesting...

but sounds like you got a crap ton done.... have you got buyers for the parts you're taking off??? Or just scraping them....
 
Still waiting on complete answers, from the info I have right now, they had the tank pulled to be purged, still trying to sort out if I can get it... I'll post when I have more info. That is actually whats stoppign me from pulling the motor, as I really wanted to fire it up in the vehicle prior to tear down...
 
Minor updates

Not a whole lot to report, been working quite a few hours lately...

Had a little time after work today to tack weld the rear section of the frame together for test fit... this 3/16" wall stuff is too dang heavy! heh heh
(The x-member in the middle is just there for spacing, not welded yet, it will go on the angled section of the Z to mount the 3rd link for the rear end)

I added a couple pics of the driveline from the Van, still waiting on info on the tank situation, so waiting on pulling everything.
 

Attachments

  • DSC04458.jpg
    DSC04458.jpg
    99.5 KB · Views: 74
  • DSC04439.jpg
    DSC04439.jpg
    132.1 KB · Views: 68
  • DSC04440.jpg
    DSC04440.jpg
    110.9 KB · Views: 67
  • DSC04441.jpg
    DSC04441.jpg
    110.3 KB · Views: 69
Planning the frame... couple pics

Not a lot of progress other than taking some more measurements, and planning.
I have a shock question I need to post in suspension Q&A now too...

Anyhow, I estimate 500lbs for the propane tank (full), and approximetely 300 for the body, so thinking about 800LB sprung weight as an estimate, so at 200lb/in ea springs, thats 2" of suspension spring preload from body weight... Obviously I'm going to make the spring mounts adjustable until I get the height set how I want, but its a start...

The goal is about 4" of tire to body clearance at the start, and I'll set the axle snubbers about 1" before the body would hit the tire, so 3" of travel sound like enough???[S

I need to sort out static shock position at this suspension position...[S
 

Attachments

  • DSC04501.jpg
    DSC04501.jpg
    108.5 KB · Views: 66
  • DSC04502.jpg
    DSC04502.jpg
    114 KB · Views: 65
  • DSC04503.jpg
    DSC04503.jpg
    120.4 KB · Views: 67
Usual rule of thumb is to have 4" of clearance from the top of your axle to the bottom of your frame. I would say you are good
 
Work night...

I spent 3.5 hours removing the dash, and the complete dash, body, and engine bay harnesses tonight... engine harness is staying put. I'd say a good 25+ lbs of wiring and fuse boxes... One more good night of tear down and I'll be ready to pull the engine and trans... I believe I will be just pulling the body off the frame so I can scrap it while I strip the frame....

Sorted out that I need a new intake manifold most likely, as the brass inserts look to be pulled out of the plastic where the aluminum housing bolts to the top of the manifold.

Also need a new drivers side valve cover, as the engine got pushed over enough to contact the corner of the ECM housing and made a slit through the plastic... I will have to see what crap made its way into the valve cover, but probably not a huge deal.

Gotta love plastic crap...

At some point I think I might go with aluminum or steel valve covers... maybe even an aluminum intake too....
 
At some point I think I might go with aluminum or steel valve covers... maybe even an aluminum intake too....

If you are going to swap them out later, and the slit isn't too big, just epoxy the slit for now to seal it up. Plastic lends itself beautifully to epoxy repairs! this way you don't have to replace the cover twice and it is cheaper. [P
 
If you are going to swap them out later, and the slit isn't too big, just epoxy the slit for now to seal it up. Plastic lends itself beautifully to epoxy repairs! this way you don't have to replace the cover twice and it is cheaper. [P

Yea, I did not want to mess with gluing it, I have to pull it to inspect, and used covers are cheap enough...

Anyhow, last night was another marathon night working on the van, got out the radiator, condensor, power steering cooler, and lines, steering column, brake pedal assy (probably not using, but good to have), booster, brake MC, exhaust (van has 2nd set of O2 sensors right smack dab in the middle of the cats, weird? [S)

I also pulled/cut all the body mount bolts out, except for one that I need to cut with a sawzall. Body is coming off the frame this week, and then its on to pulling the motor, trans, and rear end out so everything can go to scrap. Anyone need an 8 lug Dana 60? [cl

Ideas of note I had this week: I plan on adding a hitch to this to tow a pop-up camper. I'm planning on making a slide out grille setup to run off propane since I'll have the tank already. Also found out they make mini coolers that run off propane too, similar to a 3 way RV fridge (AC/DC/Propane) So my ideal is to add an area in the trunk floor to house that, behind the rear frame section all in the future... but I think it would be a great thing to have a working cooler that I don't need electricity to run necessarily.

Sunday the 318 & trans is going to a new home, my cousin's garage so I have some more room. And with any luck, the hemi will be gone in July! Gotta make room for the next portion of this build!
 
Last edited:
And with any luck, the hemi will be gone in July! Gotta make room for the next portion of this build!

That guy better hurry up and grab the hemi!:eek:

When you rewire the motor set up you can ditch alot of the emission stuff like the rear O2 sensors. Someone with HP Tuners can edit out the check engine light so it wont read the codes. It will save you a bunch of ugly stuff, save check engine light BS, and a ton of wiring harness as well. You souldn't need emissions stuff on the old truck reg anyways. [P
 

Latest posts

Back
Top