any pro body paint guys here?
- Thread starter TMP
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chopshopcustoms
Well-known member
Lenny, I'll do my best to get my point across. I am not very good on a computer. I have a 59 buick that I am building a mild custom. Pretty nice ole car out of the desserts of New Mexico. It has the original paint on it that peolpe call patina. If you know what a 59 looks like I'll explain my ordeal. I took the car down to the metal from the beltline trim down. Oh yeah, I have done paint and body work before but on my own stuff but it's been awhile. I took the car down to bare metal, did my light body work and primed with ppg k-36. Now I am in the process of removing all trim and taking the rest of the car down to metal. I have been driving the car on occasion but it stays in the shop. Question? Should I sand the k-36 back down to metal and use and epoxy sealer? I have bought ppg's shop line of sealer and high build primer. My thought was to take the freshly sanded to metal and put the epoxy down and seal the k-36 with the same. I can not do all of the car at one time because I work 70+ hours a week. I plan on doing one panel at a time. Once I get the whole car down to metal and seal, I'll start working the small dent s and put on the high build. Once I get that all blocked out I'll seal again and paint. Am I anywhere near close on how to do this. It's been 20+ years since I jumped in this deep. I can't afford to have it done. [kids in college and bad economy} Thanks in advance. TP
chopshopcustoms
Well-known member
THanks for askign about the work. MY wife has a 60 Olds so -yeah I know what they look like (or resemble)
Yes I prefer epoxy primer on cars before you prime with high build primer. If this is a car you are keeping I would stay away form the shop line products because its a lesser quality of PPg and the more expensive is my choice for long lasting .
DP epoxy and K 36 primers are great to use. You can do a car in sections - keep in mind that any primer is not UV protected -you can drive the car in primer but the sun will eventually break down the primer.Sanding the K36 back down is not necessary but it would secure a better undercoating if you do.
You can do body work over the epoxy as long as you sand it well.
It sounds as if you are heading in the right direction- feel free to PM me or ask away here on the board if you need additional questions answered.
Pictures also help so if you DO get stuck,snap a photo and put it on the board for us to view what you ae chattign about.
Good luck
Yes I prefer epoxy primer on cars before you prime with high build primer. If this is a car you are keeping I would stay away form the shop line products because its a lesser quality of PPg and the more expensive is my choice for long lasting .
DP epoxy and K 36 primers are great to use. You can do a car in sections - keep in mind that any primer is not UV protected -you can drive the car in primer but the sun will eventually break down the primer.Sanding the K36 back down is not necessary but it would secure a better undercoating if you do.
You can do body work over the epoxy as long as you sand it well.
It sounds as if you are heading in the right direction- feel free to PM me or ask away here on the board if you need additional questions answered.
Pictures also help so if you DO get stuck,snap a photo and put it on the board for us to view what you ae chattign about.
Good luck
Lenny, I took a fender all the way to metal,dp90 it and waited 6 hrs and put a good wet coat of k-36 on it. I am going to do the whole car a panel at a time because thats the only way I can get it done. Once it's all done I'll guide coat the car,sand and seal. Does that sound right? Been awhile since I have painted anything. Thanks for the help. TP
dawg
Well-known member
you should probably use a metal prep solution before you epoxy coat your panel, try Oshpo, it has always given me the best results...
chopshopcustoms
Well-known member
This is whats confusing to me. The paint rep told me to put bondo on the metal that was sanded with a 36 grit paper to give it"bite". He said never put over the dp and I didn't need to scuff if painted within 8 hrs. Rep said you can get by with a skim coat of glaze but not to do bondo work. TP
chopshopcustoms
Well-known member
I wonder when the last time the rep actually worked on a car was??? LOL
Ive been doing it this way for years, have great results and 25 years of painting experience behind me.
I could toot my own horn saying trophy winners blah blah blah but you get my drift... I am known for my paintwork (as well as metal fab)I guess you can choose which way you want to go then. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
I wonder when the last time the rep actually worked on a car was??? LOL
Ive been doing it this way for years, have great results and 25 years of painting experience behind me.
I guess you can choose which way you want to go then. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
true, thats why I ask. I didn't have a real good feeling about his answer. I have heard it both ways.
dawg
Well-known member
Your paint rep is an idiot, we always do our plastic work on top of the epoxy coat. If you read any ICAR related material, it will tell you to disturb the E coat as little as possible, for the best corrosion protection. You can get Ospho at any hardware store. It is basicly phosphoric acid, and turns iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate scale. The directions say to leave it on overnight before painting, but even a wash over with a scotchbrite will work wonders. If I do a "quicky" wash, I usually wipe things off with thinner before priming. Hell man, we haven't worked plastic on bare metal since the 70s...
chopshopcustoms
Well-known member
Your paint rep is an idiot, we always do our plastic work on top of the epoxy coat. If you read any ICAR related material, it will tell you to disturb the E coat as little as possible, for the best corrosion protection. You can get Ospho at any hardware store. It is basicly phosphoric acid, and turns iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate scale. The directions say to leave it on overnight before painting, but even a wash over with a scotchbrite will work wonders. If I do a "quicky" wash, I usually wipe things off with thinner before priming. Hell man, we haven't worked plastic on bare metal since the 70s...
yeah I was tryoing to be a little more PC that you - but same answer...the paint rep isnt really as knowledgable as he/she should be .
ok after I dp 90 the fender how long should I wait to do mud work? Do i need to scuff it or just go over it if within a certain time? Does the oshpo hurt other painted area? Do you wipe it on with a diluted rag and let sit or do I drench it?
dawg
Well-known member
Treat large areas by spraying it down wet with a household spray bottle. Be carefull not to "soak" painted surfaces, as it can dull polyurethanes, or even sometimes lift old enamel. I like to let it dry well, and then clean up with one more wipe down with a scotchbrite and some ospho. As far as the plastic over DP, I would wait overnight, you want it to be well cured, so it doesn't tear when you are sanding. Arade DP with at least 180 grit, but if it's a nice thick coat, use 80 grit. I'm probably forgetting something? Chop, anything else you would do?...
fatdog409
Active member
I have to agree with the last post, I don't think your paint rep has done much practical work in the last 20 years. I live on the coast, next to the ocean, so corrosion protection for me is most important. I also strip to bare metal and then epoxy, all bare metal with dp90 or dp40. It is an etch primer. And yes, with a light scuff, do your filler work overtop of it. When your body work is complete, I apply another coat of epoxy and then my high build primer over that. This provides an excellent foundation for starting your paint work. There are small etch spraybombs you can use for when you break through to bare metal when prepping your high build primer. Putting body filler overtop of bare metal sometimes creates a problem with sweating between the filler and the bare metal causing it to rust.
Jeff
Fatdog Rod & Custom
Jeff
Fatdog Rod & Custom
