Candy color paint

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akzale

Active member
Joined
Oct 24, 2013
Messages
27
Location
Alaska
Seeing a few cars on the road with showroom paint that looks like it could be a candy color. Anybody have any info on this paint?
 
Seeing a few cars on the road with showroom paint that looks like it could be a candy color. Anybody have any info on this paint?

Well, not sure what type of info you are looking for. Most candy colors are shot over a silver metallic base coat. The candy colors that pop the best are transparent colors that are shot over that silver base coat. Candy root beer is an awesome color BTW.
 
yes the candies are transparent and lacquer. the best candy apple red i ever saw was a base coat of yellow. the new paints on factory cars are the base coat clear coat. some are enamel, polyurethane, and water base.
 
Ah, base coat and clear coat! I've heard of it but never tried it. First time for everything! Any tips or suggestions?
 
sorry i shoot single stage, and do good to see the second coat. i do believe there are some folks here that do shoot base/clear, maybe they will step forward. might make a new post about it, and try looking with search because i seem to remember someone painting base/clear. good luck.
 
Most all new cars use base coat ,clear coat. That is why you see cars running around with what looks like peeling skin on their roofs and trunk lids. Crappy clear coat. A lot of the new candy colors require a certain color of base,depending on what shade you want. And some require what color of primer you use under that. It is really a good system for show cars and such. I'veainted a lot of bikes, and most of my candy colors and base coats were water born paints. Yes, water born. I use Auto Air paints when I do custom art work on tanks and such. Much easier to work with . And a really good selection of candy colors. With a silver base , you can use just about any candy color you want.
 
Now days most cars colors are not using metallic in there paint, most are suing pearls. Base coats dry with a dull finish hence the required clear. All base coats have a 24 hour window for you to get your clear on it. If the plans were clear after 24 hours then a inner coat clear is required. This allows you to scuff you clear instead of the base coat if you are adding art work or flames etc to the project, then clearing. There are a few different type clears depending on the VOC rating. I prefer the high solid clear because it is nicer to sand prior to buffing and the build up is better. For the glass like finish I usually block sand with 1000 grit to flatten any thing out then go over everything with a Palm sander wet sanding with 2000, then 3000, and finish up with 4000. After the 4000 the pieces are shiny, and the buffer just brings out the luster. You do not need to use a high abrasive compound to buff......I prefer Presta.

Any other questions just ask.
Lungs
Here a few pieces doing it that way.
 

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