cracked lead advice needed

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bkvail

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
243
We just got the roof/windshield section back from the sandblasters - and we plan to epoxy prime this weekend..... I am a little afraid of this corner.

8706115216_319e587fb1_z.jpg


the opposing corner is similar, but not quite as bad:
8706115190_2c00909c63_z.jpg


We don't have any lead supplies (or experience), so re-leading is probably not do-able. The underside is raw steel too (doesn't look like any lead on the underside).

What would you suggest to repair these corners? (1936 Diamond T 221D)
 
My opinion... remove the lead now. Melt it off with a torch. (A common propane torch will do.) Lead melts at low temperature, like solder. Warm it up slow and easy and it'll roll it off like water. Take your time and don't overheat the panel. Once the lead is gone, assess the situation. If the problem areas requires welding and involved repair, (looks probable to me) mask the areas off and spray the epoxy... leaving the nasty parts bare. Prime those areas when they're repaired to your satisfaction.

All I'm saying here, is the ugly parts are better off bare... than sanding and grinding thru epoxy and lead.

.
 
I understand you have to be very careful playing with lead.......lead poisoning. Something about the dust as I recall. But Bill Hines has been playing with it for decades, and smoking continual cigars too, so who knows. :D

Don
 
Dr. C has it, melt it off. My uneducated guess is the lead cracked because it wasn't the right mix for body lead 30%tin/70%lead or there abouts. Pure lead is more brittle and crumbly.
 
thanks for the advice! I think melting it off sounds like the way to go, only wish the metal underneath was closer to metal finish! I can tell by the underside that it's going to be pretty ugly/wrinkly w/o the lead :p
 
bondo

that what bondo is for, just get it as nice as possible & try and get as thin a coat as you can to do the job.

my friend had a 1965 falcon with 3 or 4 pounds in the quarters:eek:

Later :cool:
 
that what bondo is for, just get it as nice as possible & try and get as thin a coat as you can to do the job.

my friend had a 1965 falcon with 3 or 4 pounds in the quarters:eek:

Later :cool:

Ya, the whole truck will need a skim coat of body filler because of the rust pitting anyhow, but we definitely don't want 3-4# of the stuff, LOL.

Karin
 
thank you - we have been waiting to do the melting and welding until we have the doors rebuilt/installed. We have to rebuild the a-pillar support in steel since it was originally wood.
 

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