Double flared brake line question

[tiny1]

Whats the trick to flaring brake line ? I've been using flaring tools most of my life doing plumbing and gas work but those were single flair . this weekend we worked on the truck and getting it ready to ride started bleeding brakes and i had 4 flairs that are leaking reflared them same thing they still leaking. the flair looks good but for some reason it leaking. is the a trick to using double flaring tool ?

 

[Bonehead]

Hard to say, Maybe it is your tool, I have never had a problem. Take your time and look at the factory ends on the tubing. Try to match those.

 

[Bonehead]

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake_line_basics/index.html
Brake Line Basics
Walton Fabrication Shows You the Right Way to Bend and Flare Brake Lines
By Jeremy Cook


Many of us will go to great lengths (pun intended) to keep from having to bend up and flare a new piece of tubing. How many times have you seen a fuel line that goes from rubber to metal to rubber to metal to rubber? While you might be able to get away with patchwork like that in your fuel system due to the relatively low pressures involved, your brake lines are a different story. Disc brakes require about 1,000 lbs of pressure, and the drums use about 300 lbs--leaving no room for poor fitment or bad connections.

We recently dropped in on Todd Walton and the crew at Walton Fabrication to watch some expert line-fitting in action. And having since done some bending myself, I can definitely say that it's more rewarding than finding a short in your wiring.





A step that is often overlooked is de-burring both the outer and inner edges of the tubing. A quick hit with the file is all the outside edge needs.
A 1/2-inch countersink drill bit is used to quickly clean up the inner edge of the tubing.
Here's how a standard 45-degree double or inverted flaring tool works. Unless you're using stainless lines and A/N fittings throughout, this has been the standard since the '30s. First, make sure the fitting you're using is already in place on the line. Then the tubing is secured in the bar with the section of tubing protruding equal to the height of the die you're about to use.

With the die inserted into the tubing, the screw cone is compressed until the die is flush with the tubing bar.
The die was removed, and the screw cone was screwed directly onto the top of the tubing.
With the correct flare of one end of our line, we proceeded to the bends. To maintain the proper length, always work from one end of the line to the other. As you work, try to visualize the fact that with every flare and bend, you're pulling the line in slightly. This is how people get into trouble and miss their mark.

 

[R Pope]

I raid my reloading bench and steal the inside/outside neck de-burring tool when doing brake flares. They're cheap at any gun shop, and work much better than a countersink bit, plus they work on the outside edge too.

 

[Gastrick]

If your flares are leaking, try to loosen and re-tighten them several times as opposed to just tightening them down once with great force. Sometimes they will seat if you do that.

Another option is to use tapered copper gaskets. They work like a charm on leaky brake line fittings.



http://midamerica.thomasnet.com/ite...&origin=keyword&by=prod&assetid=spec&filter=0

 

[tiny1]

Thank you guys I bet i didn't deburr the line good enough. last night i also got a new flaring tool I'll give it all a try today . Thanks again for the help you guys are always helpful Thanks!!

 

[tiny1]

Thanks again for the help guys. The new flaring tool did the trick. We have brakes now