Help w/ a 50 Ford on a 96 F150 chassis

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55chevytruck

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2011
Messages
8
Location
Poconos, Pa
Hey all, about to start diving in on a project with my father in law. We're putting a 1950 F1 on a 96 F150 chassis and drivetrain (302 w/ a/t trans) he wants to keep the dash on the 50 all original and we need help figuring out what we need to make it work. we haven't recv'd the 50 yet so comparison is out hte window at the moment. will the speedo gears matchup? will we need something to drop voltage or is a custom harness needed? i've even thought about swapping the late model guts into the original hardware but dont' wanna if at all possible...am i undertaking too big of a task or am i overlooking something obvious?
 
As for the dash on the 50. You will need to change the bulb that light up the gauges to 12 volt. The amp does not care what voltage is going through it. The temp gauge is mechanical so there will be no need to do anything with that.

The fuel gauge and oil pressure will need a voltage drop if the oil pressure is electrical and not mechanical.

also the heater motor will need a voltage drop unless you find a 12 volt motor to fit the heater. The starter silenced with need to be changed to 12 volts If you plan on using these items or the 1950 wiring.

The headlight switch and dimmer and brake switch will work with 12 volt, just need to change the bulbs to 12 volt.

As for the speed o gear trans are you running. if it a C4 or C6 the speed-o cable from a 1965 -68 ford will work. maybe newer if the speed-o end id a screw on and not the plastic press on. The newer ones do not have the right end for the speed-o.
 
You're going to have a lot of work ahead of you using the later model chassis, it's too wide and to long. You'll have to chop it up and re fit it so much that it's much easier to upgrade the oiginal frame than to do a swap like that. Not trying to be a downer, just letting you know.
 
if i'm not mistaken, a 96 f-150 used an electric speedometer...if i'm right about that, it would be next to impossible to adapt it to the orig. 50 speedometer....
also agree w/previous post about the hassles of a frame swap on that particular combination not a job for the faint at heart:eek:
 
I also have to agree that the frame swap is not the best. The stock frames on those trucks are a nice ladder type frame and there are a lot of options you can do with those frames, I have went with Drop axles, Mustang II, Chrysler torsion bar and early Camaro sub frame with the stock 1948-52 ford frame.

Also just able any engine you want to use will fit that frame.
 
Also just able any engine you want to use will fit that frame.

True, but you will probably have to go with block hugger headers to clear the steering box. Although the 302 might fit without them if you offset it to the pass. side a few inches. I was planning a 351W in my '51 and it was barely going to fit with huggers and a decent offset. Anyway Summit has nice block huggers for around $130.
 
True, but you will probably have to go with block hugger headers to clear the steering box. Although the 302 might fit without them if you offset it to the pass. side a few inches. I was planning a 351W in my '51 and it was barely going to fit with huggers and a decent offset. Anyway Summit has nice block huggers for around $130.

Check into fender well headers I never put one together with the stock steering box. I have used GM truck power boxes and Mustang boxes with the stock axle
 
frame swap.

Is the frame shot on the old truck? If not financially and headache wise you would be better off to use the old frame and just update the engine and suspension. Not trying to knock your project just makes for a lot of work and money. 9 inch rear engine and tranny out of the donor truck, update front end and brakes and a coat of paint or not and you are cruising.:cool:
 

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