International L122 B Binder Rat Build

[jmlcolorado]

Good to see the binder back in your shop. And good to see everything fits regarding the new power plant and trans. Watched the video of the unload and wondered if you were just going to romp on it and drop her right in the driveway. I knew better but it kept me watching till the end.
Carry on.

Ha!
Well that grey dodge doesn't have a very happy parking brake, and a relatively steep driveway. Could cause the 4bt to unload itself in short order.
You might have noticed gat man shaking his head at me when the truck rolled forward after I shut it off. That's lack of e-brake, and reverse gear parking

 

[Gunzenrosa]

Ha!
Well that grey dodge doesn't have a very happy parking brake, and a relatively steep driveway. Could cause the 4bt to unload itself in short order.
You might have noticed gat man shaking his head at me when the truck rolled forward after I shut it off. That's lack of e-brake, and reverse gear parking

My 02 hasn't had a working E brake since I can remember. Lol
Good thinking getting the motor moved. How did you get it out of the bed? Case of beer and a few more guys?

 

[jmlcolorado]

My 02 hasn't had a working E brake since I can remember. Lol
Good thinking getting the motor moved. How did you get it out of the bed? Case of beer and a few more guys?

Engine hoist. A tired one. I couldn't back all the way into the garage with the topper and rack on (stupid 7' garage doors). So we were working with a bit of hill against us.
I wasn't confident we could hold it from rolling, especially with the engine 4' in the air. I have a 3/4" stud mounted in the back of the garage use to pull things in the garage, so I strapped the hoist to that to keep it from Rollin away.
Once it was clear of the tailgate, I pulled the truck away and we set the engine down.
It was "strapped" to a "pallet", neither of which I could comfortably call safe. The pallet was falling apart and the whole engine was quite precarious.
Once it was on the ground, we wrestled it around to a safer Position.

You should seen how it was LOADED in the truck!

I asked the farmer how we were going to load it from the back of the pickup bed it was in, located in the middle of a farm field.
He said he has a skid steer somewhere.
Half an hour later he rolls up with a skid with 3 good tires. 4th had a blown bead and was just floppin rubber all over the place.
On top of that, he had a hay tine attachment. Basically 4, 5' long spikes. A few times the straps slipped to the end of the tines and they were flexing like crazy.
Needless to say, it was the least coordinated load/unload procedure of an engine on the face of the planet.
But it was pretty entertaining

 

[earthman]

What a struggle to get to this point but it is going to be an awesome ride!

 

[jmlcolorado]

What a struggle to get to this point but it is going to be an awesome ride!

Ehh. It's all in good fun though.
Researching using dodge power steering pump, with Chevy power steering gear box and hydroboost, and stuffing that into a truck with no power steering or power brakes.
Figure I might as well over complicate the rest of the truck too

 

[jmlcolorado]

Mismatched power steering pump and hydroboost not a problem, from my research all the hydroboosters are basically the same...

Once I finally got my lines hooked up correctly and a pump that worked... The difference was night and day... Brakes are almost too good... Highly recommend the hydroboost set ups

Great news! Thank you!

 

[CORPO]

Ha I was trying to fix my post and u managed to quote it in the 5 seconds it was posted... Lol

Content was all good... But my fat fingers on my phone managed to hit the thumbs down icon on accident... Definitely thumbs up on your build

 

[jmlcolorado]

Question about pinion angles.
I stabbed the engine and trans into the truck, and am working on getting in exact placement to fabricate engine and trans mounts.

On the old engine, I had places the trans pinion angle to 3*. The engine would be point back 3*, rear end point up 3*.

With this thing in place I set it at 3*, but the pan on the mopar 47RE appears to be leaning forward quite a bit.
In a factory vehicle, is the pan rail on the trans parallel with the frame?
If I set the engine/trans that way, it gives me 7* pinion angle on the output shaft of the trans.
This seems drastic. Could it really be 7* from the factory?

From what I understand, pinion angles should be between 1-3*.

 

[jfg455]

I would set it a 3* and be comfortable with it. Sometimes the trans pans are an optical illusion. Most stock trucks have about a 2-3* forward tilt to the frame (EG: rear higher than the front). Add that to the 3* motor / trans combo and you would be near 6*-7* if the frame were level. A little forward tilt on the trans pan won't hurt things any. Clear as mud? [P

 

[jmlcolorado]

I would set it a 3* and be comfortable with it. Sometimes the trans pans are an optical illusion. Most stock trucks have about a 2-3* forward tilt to the frame (EG: rear higher than the front). Add that to the 3* motor / trans combo and you would be near 6*-7* if the frame were level. A little forward tilt on the trans pan won't hurt things any. Clear as mud? [P

This is the consinsious I'm getting from multiple folks too.
I spent 3 hours leveling the fame front to back and left to right so I could get pinion angles right without any headache. So frame sits at 0*. Trans pinion, I'll set at 3, and rear end I'll set at 3* the other direction at ride height. Should be fine with that.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Should the bed be solid mounted or mounted on rubber isolator a like the cab?
I bought universal cab mount brackets and poly bushings, and now I'm thinking the bed should be rubber mounted.

Kinda thinking I should use these for the bed too. Maybe 3 per side.

The cummins shakes and rattles a lot. I had started it while it was sitting on the frame, and the cab was sitting on the frame, and it sounded like you were sitting in a tin can in a rock tumbler.
So I found the best solution for rubber mounted the engine with hydraulic motor mounts. Their huge!

 

[jmlcolorado]

Suppose I should keep the theme of the thread and show you every freakin step I've done.

The engine is heavy. Really heavy. So I had to redo the engine mounts. Apparently small block Oldsmobile mounts and 3.9 cummins diesel mounts don't match up, and needed something that would support those giant hydraulic mounts.
The block has 4 holes on each side for mounts. And apparently they are in a great place on the 6 cylinder diesels as there is plenty of room to clear everything.
The 4 cylinder, not so much.
The two missing cylinders place this plate directly behind the starter. So I had to devise a way to clear it.
Nice guy neighbor brought me a bunch of 3/8 plate steel to work with for helping him do something. So that's getting used.

Template:




Cut main plate:


The side gussets cut, and starting to form around the main plate.
P.s. THIS SUCKED!
I didn't really think through how I was going to bend the 3/8" plate to into the inner diameter.





So far so good.
Then I broke China.


<a href="http://s526.photobucket.com/user/jmlcolorado/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3230.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/cc349/jmlcolorado/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3230.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_3230.jpg"/></a>

I broke out 'merica to finish up the bends. 'Merica didn't break.




Onto the next piece:

 

[jmlcolorado]

Skipping ahead to the next few pieces.




Test fitting:




The passenger side:


That side was much easier.
Posts more later as I make progress. Probably another or year or two from now

 

[jmlcolorado]

Oh......and mr nice guy neighbor.....while attempting a good deed, provided me with galvanized 3/8" plate.
The main plate was normal steel with mill scale on it. No problem.
But all the side pieces are galvanized. Despite my best efforts to grind the galvanization off (yes, I know, that's a no no), apparently galvanization makes itself part of the parent metal. Looks all pretty clean when ground down, but once you throw weld wire at it........SURPRISE!!!
Quite frustrating. Nasty, dirty, disgusting welds with more then a truck load of weld spatter left behind.
Live and learn. No galvanized..........ever

 

[Old Iron]

[clThat's some hefty motor mounts
You don't need to mount the bed with isolators.
They're used to keep road noise out of the passenger compartment.

 

[DJ3100]

We should find the guys who galvanized the 3/8" plate and have them executed, along with the guy who designed liquid soap dispensers that shoot straight out.

Nice mounts. You'll never have to worry about leaving the engine on the highway.

Assuming you didn't have a 4' cheater bar on the handle of the vice, maybe we should include Irwin in the execution.

 

[jfg455]

You will be happy with the motor mounts initially but you will be replacing them down the road. They like to split and leak out all the fluid. 1st you will be chasing an oil leak for days and then you will notice the motor flopping around...We changed a ton of them at the GM dealership over the years.

 

[jmlcolorado]

You will be happy with the motor mounts initially but you will be replacing them down the road. They like to split and leak out all the fluid. 1st you will be chasing an oil leak for days and then you will notice the motor flopping around...We changed a ton of them at the GM dealership over the years.

I've heard that too. I figure for as infrequent I'll be driving the truck, they should last a bit. It won't see the miles the delivery trucks see driving all dat every day. It'll take me 15 years to reach that kind of mileage.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Drivers side each done. Disregard the crap slag on the plate. I haven't yet mastered upside down welding. I'll likely grind out and hit this seam again with the frame flipped over later.




Finished up the passengers side this evening.









They are staggered in order to clear different things in each side. They are equally staggered front to back in each side.
Goal was to balance as much of the engine weight as possible to relieve stress on the bell housing.

I tossed a scale under the trans and found the crossmember is only supporting 112lbs. Not bad for a guess on placement.
The engine weight about 750lbs, and the trans about 250lbs, so the motor mounts should be carrying somewhere around 990 lbs, split between 2 is close to 500lbs each.
I think they'll hold up, but we'll see I guess. That's a good chunk of weight and vibration.

 

[Dirtyrat]

Where did you get the mounts?