International L122 B Binder Rat Build

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I-R-POPS said:
Here's what I did to cover up the plastic reservoir. I hate plastic.
Keep beating on it.
I need those air horns. They ought to wake people up.
Click to expand...

Yes! That's exactly what popped into my head when Bama mentioned you made a cover! [cl I think I'll do it. Simple fix.


Those horns are loud! I don't fire them often, cause they confuse people :)
I'll be mounting under the bed firing down and backwards. Still MORE than enough to alert anyone in a 3 block radius :eek::D
 
Got the battery cable kit. I wanted to make sure I had enough to put the battery anywhere.
I had planned to install right behind the drivers seat in the bed, below the bed floor, but this battery is so freakin big that it won't leave enough room for the bed floor to have any hinged baled to access. I have tons of room on the rear behind the axle, but not sure if it'll see any water splash from the tire.
Thinking I might put the battery on the cab behind the seats. Pleanty pf room there.



Fancy ball style firewall mount for the steering column. Probably the prettiest thing on the whole truck! Except those Allen bolts! I think those took a swim :eek:


Brooke decided to come hang out with dad tonight.






That kid is a nut :)

Got the fuse block mounted. The drivers side firewall filled up quick with the brakes, throttle, fuel cutoff cable. I decided to mount the fuse block on the passangers side next to the heater.






There are quite a few wires on the engine side of the harness I don't plan on using. Ignition coil, fuel pump. Ect. Anyone just remove those wire from a painless bulkhead? I don't just want to cut them off, but still want to be able to have access to them in the future if I add stuffs.

Started building the hydraulic lines for the power steering. I forgot the fitting out of the power steering box, so need to buy that adapter.
 
I also started the steering shaft.
Word of advice on these, make sure you don't let the shaft go too far into the joint. I had it all setup and felt binding. I was afraid I had the angle too sharp, but when it took it apart, I noticed the shaft was barely rubbing inside the u-joint.
Also installed a support bearing. Wanted to keep it as tight to the frame as possible to keep it as strong as possible.


You can see in that picture I got the power steering reseviour installed too.


 
Funny, there is a warning on the U joint pack that warns not to let the shaft go in too deep. What is they say about reading the instructions? :D[ddd
 
I think i might have mentioned this earlier on in the thread.


Okay, so try to keep up.
I ordered a custom shifter from a guy called Kilduff Machines.
He's building me a lightning rod shifter for the rat rod.
Video:
http://youtu.be/P25xh_xGdkU

Mines a little different. The mopar 47RE is 3 speed plus overdrive. Overdrive is electronically activated.
So on my shifter, I'll have a PRN4321 lever for gear selections.
A 1-2 lever that shifts mechanically.
A 2-3 lever that shifts mechanically.
A 3-4 lever that's not hooked up mechanically. I'll install a momentary switch for 3-4 shift so that once the lever is pulled, the switch closes activating overdrive electronically.

I will also have another momentary switch on the 2-3 lever for torque converter lookup and it will stay locked up as soon as it hits 3rd gear and during the 3-4 shift.

Last lever (that makes 5 levers total) will be a 4-neutral lever which allows me, when coming to a stop, to pull the one lever to go straight to neutral. Good for stop lights and stuffs.

The trans will get a Trans Go full manual conversion so the transmission is not a fully automatic anymore. This provides full line pressures at all times, giving firmer shifts and less band wear.
There will be no Throttle Valve cable needed since the trans will not be fluctuating line pressures through the shifts.

Lastly, I'll have a momentary switch mounted on top of the 1-2 shift lever for line lock because..........burn outs :)

Kinda crazy, but I think it fits the rat rod theme.
Guess you could call it a clutchless 4 speed :)
 
sgtpontiac said:
Can you go over that one more time? LOL.. :D
Click to expand...
Of course I can!
Step 1:
Decide which gear you would like to select.
Step 2:
Look at the shifter.
Step 3:
Technical support hours are M-F 9-5 eastern standard time. Please call again during those hours :D


DJ3100 said:
Got shot ... what?
Click to expand...
Yeah I had no idea what he was talking about, but after I posted this, I was searching other videos about his shifters.
Stumbled across a new report covering a shooting. Turns out it was him. He was arguing with a man and woman in front of his house about something, the guy he was arguing with shot 6 times. Hit him in the arm and leg apparently.

That was a few years ago, so one can assume the argument didn't have anything to do with bad enough business practices that would put the guy out of business. Since he personally answered the phone when I called the number on his website :)
At least I hope :)
 
Got me a big......okay, medium sized box today.
The wife is starting to wonder who this Summit gal is. She also thinks Summit is some sort of stripper name, and a horrible play on words.
I digress.


Anyways.
I forgot what I had ordered since so much stuffs is showing up these days.
Open er up and find a bajillion little boxs.
Turns out these little exhaust hangers are much like beta fish. They don't much get along, so they must be kept separated.
Come on!



Also got the last couple fittings for the hydroboost and some exhaust hanger bars to weld on the frame/exhaust to support.
Tryin to do this the "right" way I suppose.


Seems to me, they could have fit all this into one rubber hanger box.
 
Last edited:
I'd say - not right. I think it needs to tighten down like the other one in order to seal.
Have never had that issue, so I can't offer up correction ideas.
 
Ahhhh. I think I see what I did wrong.

Are the ports in the GM steering box o-ring style fittings like the hydroboost?

If so, I have the wrong fittings.

I believe the right fittings are 18mm - 1.5 o-ring to -6an adapter for the input port and 16mm - 1.5 o-ring adapter for the return port.

Correct me if I'm wrong.


What I currently have is -6 AN to 5/8" Flare Adpater (High side steering box)
-6 AN to 11/16" Flare Adapter (return side Steering box).
 

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