New Ford 302 question
- Thread starter DJ3100
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Unkl Ian
Allergic to Idiots
Heat up the casting around the bolt, then use Vice Grips.
DJ3100
Well-known member
The outer casting is an aluminum timing cover, the bolt is threaded into the block. I put a little heat on the timing cover and got the bolt red. Couldn't turn it. I have also sprayed Blaster penetrant several times and tapped on the bolt and the timing cover with a hammer while trying to turn with Vise Grips.
Anything else I can do?
Anything else I can do?
donsrods
Well-known member
As a last resort you may have to pull the timing cover and then heat the bolts very close to the block to get them freed up. But first try heating the bolts themselves (not the surrounding timing cover) cherry red for a while. Those particular bolts go into the water passages and have been corroded solid to the block. Heat them sufficiently to get the heat all the way to where they enter the block. This will take some time as the rest of the system will act as a heat sink to cool them down.
Patience and heating a few times, plus vicegrips, should save you tapping out a broken off bolt.
Don
Patience and heating a few times, plus vicegrips, should save you tapping out a broken off bolt.
Don
Hollywood Eddie
Active member
Personally I would pull the cover also. That way you can find out if your bolts are corroded into the block or the timing cover.
donsrods
Well-known member
Good point, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to change the timing chain while you are in there.
Don
Don
HOT40ROD
Well-known member
Been there done that. being around Fords all my life it has happen a few times to me with the small block Ford and the 3.0 fords.
usually I find that the bolt bite fast because of the corrosion in the hole of the aluminum timing cover. Most time once you get the timing cover off the bolt will turn out. And yes it is usually the long bolts right at the water passages
I try to find the cast iron timing covers that are used on marine motors. Or antiseize the bolt when you put them back in.
usually I find that the bolt bite fast because of the corrosion in the hole of the aluminum timing cover. Most time once you get the timing cover off the bolt will turn out. And yes it is usually the long bolts right at the water passages
I try to find the cast iron timing covers that are used on marine motors. Or antiseize the bolt when you put them back in.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks, for the advice. I thought it looked like a problem that Ford guys would recognize.
Removing the timing cover creates that "since I'm here I should replace the .... " syndrome, which I'm trying to avoid right now. I'd like to drive this thing and tear into the engine later. But, like you guys say, there may be no choice. (Lets see, timing chain, balancer, timing cover. Might as well put a cam in. Maybe I should pull the heads and do a valve job - probably just as cheap to replace the heads. Look at the ridge on the cylinders = rebuild.)
I'm going to start with the torch. I'll let you know what works.
Removing the timing cover creates that "since I'm here I should replace the .... " syndrome, which I'm trying to avoid right now. I'd like to drive this thing and tear into the engine later. But, like you guys say, there may be no choice. (Lets see, timing chain, balancer, timing cover. Might as well put a cam in. Maybe I should pull the heads and do a valve job - probably just as cheap to replace the heads. Look at the ridge on the cylinders = rebuild.)
I'm going to start with the torch. I'll let you know what works.
speedkills502
Member
I have had them stick so bad I had to break the cover off around the stud then it just turned right out it crazy what corrosion will do.
f100shorty
Member
find a nut that will slide over broken bolt weld it to the bolt for a better grip that is if you have a welder lol hope this helps
DJ3100
Well-known member
Got it out
I took your advice and heated the bolt very hot and and kept it hot for several minutes. While it was hot I put a right angle bend in it. I also heated the timing cover around the hole. I did a few heat and cool cycles, using the air hose to blow the junk out of the hole between heats.
Finally, using an adjustable wrench on the bend I got it loose.
The point of replacing the water pump was to change to a standard rotation wp and simpler alternator bracket. I went over to the Dark Side and got a billet grooved pulley and March alt bracket both of which look out of place. Maybe in a few days I'll be able to paint them ugly.
And by the way, I couldn't find the heater core covers, but I found that the hole in the wp heater port was the correct size for a 1/4 pipe tap. I tapped it and used a brass plug. The by-pass hose isn't on yet, I haven't found any clamps I want to use.
Thanks for the help.
I took your advice and heated the bolt very hot and and kept it hot for several minutes. While it was hot I put a right angle bend in it. I also heated the timing cover around the hole. I did a few heat and cool cycles, using the air hose to blow the junk out of the hole between heats.
Finally, using an adjustable wrench on the bend I got it loose.
The point of replacing the water pump was to change to a standard rotation wp and simpler alternator bracket. I went over to the Dark Side and got a billet grooved pulley and March alt bracket both of which look out of place. Maybe in a few days I'll be able to paint them ugly.
And by the way, I couldn't find the heater core covers, but I found that the hole in the wp heater port was the correct size for a 1/4 pipe tap. I tapped it and used a brass plug. The by-pass hose isn't on yet, I haven't found any clamps I want to use.
Thanks for the help.
