I started this all off in the transmission section, but now that I finally got the tranny/engine apart, I'll post this in the appropriate area. I have the heads off, and I think my coolant passages may be clogged with something. I'm not sure if it is some sort of radiator sealant, or just rust, or maybe even excess head gasket sealant. Or, like I said I'm new to this, there isn't anything wrong with what I'm looking at. I don't know. I posted the pics of the heads, and corresponding block pics. I believe I am looking at coolant passages that are clogged. Some of them are opened up, but as you can see, not all of them are. It seems to be a metallic/rubbery substance, Any ideas? Thanks.
New to engine rebuilds question
- Thread starter Japrod
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dmw56
Busted and Rusted on Route 66
Yup, all crapped up.Take them to a machine shop and have them boiled out. Same with the block. Then have them mic the block and do the machine work and heads.
Dropped off the block today
Dropped off the block today at the local machine shop. Guy said from what he could tell so far, the block looked to be in good condition. Said he didn't see any obvious damage, and thinks it'll come out fine. Said he'll have it looking better than new. So I'm pretty psyched about that, then I'll drop off the heads, and have them cleaned and checked too. Guess I should invest in a valve spring compressing tool.
Oh, one question, and remember this is my first rebuild... Does it matter what piston came out of each cylinder? I may have gotten them mixed up when bringing them from the front to back yard areas. Thanks. Oh, and who do you all recommend for rebuild kits for these engines? (63-65 Buick 425 Nailheads.)
Dropped off the block today at the local machine shop. Guy said from what he could tell so far, the block looked to be in good condition. Said he didn't see any obvious damage, and thinks it'll come out fine. Said he'll have it looking better than new. So I'm pretty psyched about that, then I'll drop off the heads, and have them cleaned and checked too. Guess I should invest in a valve spring compressing tool.
Oh, one question, and remember this is my first rebuild... Does it matter what piston came out of each cylinder? I may have gotten them mixed up when bringing them from the front to back yard areas. Thanks. Oh, and who do you all recommend for rebuild kits for these engines? (63-65 Buick 425 Nailheads.)
PA41
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2008
- Messages
- 872
Lots of older engines have the cyl # Stamped in the rod/cap. They are best put back in the same hole, but not a deal killer if not. I've built engines using 3 donor engines--mixing and matching from all 3 into one, and they ran fine--just need to measure ring gaps and bearing clearances..
Home engine building is dieing out, as are neighborhood machine shops. In fact alot of shops will only remove and replace engines--just buy them from the factory or a reman company.
Its a whole hobby of its own.. Enjoy the trip... I would keep it simple though--freshen it upstock kinda deal (rings-rods-mains)-- much more and things get unmanageable for a beginner--(or even a veteran)..
PA41
Home engine building is dieing out, as are neighborhood machine shops. In fact alot of shops will only remove and replace engines--just buy them from the factory or a reman company.
Its a whole hobby of its own.. Enjoy the trip... I would keep it simple though--freshen it upstock kinda deal (rings-rods-mains)-- much more and things get unmanageable for a beginner--(or even a veteran)..
PA41
hotrod preacher
"Official RRR Chaplain"
i would HIGHLY reccomend geting a "how to" book for rebuilding your engine, i don't know about that particular engine, but i know they are available for almost anything else......my first go-'round on an engine build was at about 19 yrs old.....i had read thru the "how to rebuild your bigblock ford" about 5 times before tearing into it.......
alot of answers for almost every question........
BTW i still own the truck & motor after almost 20 yrs....
alot of answers for almost every question........
BTW i still own the truck & motor after almost 20 yrs....
PA41
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2008
- Messages
- 872
In my first build (14), I made the mistake of not thinking I needed to follow the books advice--Didn't torque the rods--It didn't turn out well.. 
About the only thing I have found the books to be a little too particular with are tollerances. I've assembled some terribly sloppy engines that ran for years and some nice tight motors that didn't get me around the block. Too loose is better than too tight.
My best advice on motor building is do little things first. The first few times around, Just do a $250 freshen up instead of doing that magazine $5 K build. I've bought the remains of a few of those magazine builds for pennies on the dollar, and did the guys a favor. Its a quick way to ruin a great hobby.. Keep in mind the mag builds are mostly hype--trying to sell the rags. I bet those guys never did another car.
Keep it simple and enjoy the journey.
PA41
About the only thing I have found the books to be a little too particular with are tollerances. I've assembled some terribly sloppy engines that ran for years and some nice tight motors that didn't get me around the block. Too loose is better than too tight.
My best advice on motor building is do little things first. The first few times around, Just do a $250 freshen up instead of doing that magazine $5 K build. I've bought the remains of a few of those magazine builds for pennies on the dollar, and did the guys a favor. Its a quick way to ruin a great hobby.. Keep in mind the mag builds are mostly hype--trying to sell the rags. I bet those guys never did another car.
Keep it simple and enjoy the journey.
PA41
42chevy
Rustier Rat Rodder
Keep everything cleaner than what you would eat off and measure everything. Even after the machine work. Take your time and torque everything properly. Remember to check intake exhaust manifold tightness after a few heat cycles. Oh and did I say keep it clean. If assembled dirty you will most likely have thrown your money down the wrong kind of rat hole. Good luck, you can do it. And buy a book if you can find one, they are very helpful and kind of fun to read anyway.
Rocker arms
Ok, so like I said, this is my first engine rebuild, so bear with me. I have the rocker arms, and I'm cleaning them up, as they are pretty corroded. Now, my question is, are each of these 8 sections supposed to move independently of each other? Because none of these move. I took the cotter pins off, and the washers, and the rockers won't slide off. I don't want to start really yanking on these till I find out for sure. My assumption is that each of these arms move independently and the spring in the middle of each keeps the correct tension on them, but I really don't know. Is this usually a part that is replaced on a rebuild? Surely the springs are at least. Thanks in advance. Oh, my block and crank should be ready this week from being cleaned and checked. Fingers crossed it is all good news.
Anyone know of a good manual for this engine?
Ok, so like I said, this is my first engine rebuild, so bear with me. I have the rocker arms, and I'm cleaning them up, as they are pretty corroded. Now, my question is, are each of these 8 sections supposed to move independently of each other? Because none of these move. I took the cotter pins off, and the washers, and the rockers won't slide off. I don't want to start really yanking on these till I find out for sure. My assumption is that each of these arms move independently and the spring in the middle of each keeps the correct tension on them, but I really don't know. Is this usually a part that is replaced on a rebuild? Surely the springs are at least. Thanks in advance. Oh, my block and crank should be ready this week from being cleaned and checked. Fingers crossed it is all good news.
Anyone know of a good manual for this engine?
42chevy
Rustier Rat Rodder
You probably have said, but what engine is it? I usually clean the rocker shaft really well and make sure nothing has "play" in it. If you post pics of the rocker shaft I could help more.
Rocker arm pics
I took these pics of the rocker arms. They are off of my 425 Buick Nailhead. None of the sections move at all. The whole unit seems to be either corroded up, or it is supposed to not move. Tell me what you guys think. Thanks.
I took these pics of the rocker arms. They are off of my 425 Buick Nailhead. None of the sections move at all. The whole unit seems to be either corroded up, or it is supposed to not move. Tell me what you guys think. Thanks.
Attachments
fuzz
Livin' the rat roddin' lifestyle
All the parts on the shaft should be moving free. There is a cotter pin on each end of the shaft, remove them, washers, springs and rocker arms and the supports. If they are hard to remove they're just stuck from the crude. Soak everything in solvent till you get all the pieces to slide off the shaft. Clean it good and put it back together ezactly the way it came apart. Holes in bottom of the shaft should face downward for proper oiling of the rockers...[P
29desoto
Well-known member
tech tips
I just read a good tip in the tech tips section about a rust removal process involving a battery charger and some baking soda. Could be a good, easy way to clean that mess up.
And I have a "how to rebuild a small block chevy" book that I have had for years. Found it in a used book store. Very good basics, and then it goes into hopping it up. Lots of specs and torque settings and such.
I would for sure buy one!
I just read a good tip in the tech tips section about a rust removal process involving a battery charger and some baking soda. Could be a good, easy way to clean that mess up.
And I have a "how to rebuild a small block chevy" book that I have had for years. Found it in a used book store. Very good basics, and then it goes into hopping it up. Lots of specs and torque settings and such.
I would for sure buy one!
42chevy
Rustier Rat Rodder
Those should move very freely and should come apart after cleaning. You seem to be doing well . Just take your time.
