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Well guys, I think you were all correct on using a new standard and proven axle. I went to the salvage yard with a tape measure. It's really hard to find any rear wheel drive vehicles at all. I did find a crown vic, and it wasn't real far off in width, but it has a pinion that's offset about 3 inches, and I can't use that. It turns out that all of the 8.8 axles have an offset pinion. All of the other axles were way too narrow, or too wide.

I decided that if the spider gears weren't strong enough in the 10 bolt, and I beefed up the center section, then something else would probably break. Then I realized I'd been tripping over the answer for about 4 years. I've had a Dana 60 sitting in the way for about 4 or 5 years, so I decided to check it, and sure enough, it has 3.73 gears. It's 4.5 inches wider than my axle, but since I'm making new wheels now, I can take that back with backspacing in the wheels. The pinion has the same offset that I had. Those 10.5 inch disc brakes weren't doing the job with 40 inch tires either.

My brother had some 15 inch 8 lug wheels laying around, and he has too many old steel truck wheels laying out back, so all I had to do was drive the 10 miles and get em.

It's a lot of work to redo, but it was low cost, and this sucker won't break.




 
You might be able to find a set of adapters and bolt up a set of stock 22.5 10 hole wheels to that axle. I know I see a lot of the one ton guys running the big truck wheels with some kind of adapter. Would be a few dollars spent, but less work than welding up another set of wheels.
 
Sucks to back track but these things happen when we build crazy rides... Looks like it's the same center section I'm running... Mines a Dana 61

Adapters is taking the easy way out...where's the fun in that??? I always go the less expensive way more time consuming route myself :)
 
That Dana looks like it belongs there. The 10 looked a little under scale.

You giving up the disc brakes?

Yeah I always thought it was a little small too. I'm gonna run the drums for now. All the disc brake conversions are expensive, and I've never seen one that was built the way I thought it should be. If I go to disc later, I'll just fab it up like I've done before. It's barely more work than installing a kit anyway.

You might be able to find a set of adapters and bolt up a set of stock 22.5 10 hole wheels to that axle. I know I see a lot of the one ton guys running the big truck wheels with some kind of adapter. Would be a few dollars spent, but less work than welding up another set of wheels.

Those things are scarce when used, and they're $550 for two new ones. Then I'd have to space each wheel out about 3.5 inches, since the 22.5 rims are supposed to be inside/outside duals, not centered on the flange. I just can't justify it. I'll just put the sweat into it, and burn some 7018 rods. It should come out to saving $100 per hour of work.
 
Sucks to back track but these things happen when we build crazy rides... Looks like it's the same center section I'm running... Mines a Dana 61

Adapters is taking the easy way out...where's the fun in that??? I always go the less expensive way more time consuming route myself :)

The Dana 61 is the same thing except the pinion is further from the ring gear. It's for faster gear ratios. They run 3.07 to 4.10, where the 60 can go from 3.31 to 7.17 ratio.
 
The Dana 61 is the same thing except the pinion is further from the ring gear. It's for faster gear ratios. They run 3.07 to 4.10, where the 60 can go from 3.31 to 7.17 ratio.


Pretty sure I'm running the 3.07 been awhile since I looked into it... Frankly it didn't matter what the gearing was... It was free!

Good luck on your axle swap! I'm sure you will get it back running quick
 
I picked up a conversion U-joint for the new pinion yoke yesterday. My driveshaft is all 1350 size joints, and this axle has a 1330 yoke on it. For future reference, the Neapco number for this item is 2-3050.

I got the axle into position last night, and started welding the brackets on. I think I got it straight and level. I shortened the brackets on the spring mounts on the bottom, partly because the new axle tube is bigger, and partly to raise the rear of the frame about an inch or so.

I had to shorten the driveshaft about 2.5 inches. I got it all cut apart, put back together and installed with the new U-joint last night.

I started putting one wheel together to see how it sets. I didn't take any pictures. There's not much to see. I have a feeling these wheels are going to be harder to do than the last ones. For one thing, on the last ones I looked for wheels with the right backspacing. This time I took what was available. There aren't a whole lot of 15 inch 8 lug steel wheels around. I could order some with different backspacing, but that just isn't going to happen.

I still have to attach the upper mounts, and the shock mounts, and get the brakes working. The brakes are kind of a pain on these full floating axles. You have to pull the axles, bearing nuts, bearings, and hub/drums to get at the brakes. That makes it a good time to do wheel cylinders and seals.
 
I scrapped 4 of those 8 lug rims... I couldn't get anyone to come take them... But I bet they are all pretty similar offsets
 
It's been a long long day. I cleaned up and welded the upper mounts onto the new axle. All I have left on that is shock brackets and brake fittings.

I dropped off my wheels to the sandblaster on Saturday morning, and he called me to come get them Sunday night at 7:30. So I got to work on them by 10pm. I cut off the inner and outer rims of the small wheels this time. I went through about five cutoff wheels. What a mess.

Centering went well.


They're ready for powder coating.
 
That's an interesting turn around. Did you use the guy I told you about or did you find someone else? Looks like he did a pretty good job.
 
Yeah I went with them, but as of October 1st they have new ownership. The new guy was hand picked by the old owner, so I guess it should be pretty much the same shop. He was willing to do it on the weekend so I could get something done with it.
Steel sure is nice to weld after it's been sandblasted.
 
You know they make an adapter to go from GM 8 lug to Semi truck 10 lug...:D

Nice work though now that it is done! [P
 
You know they make an adapter to go from GM 8 lug to Semi truck 10 lug...:D

Nice work though now that it is done! [P

http://ktperformance.net/i-10767016...s-chevy-gmc-1973-00-2500-3500-front-only.html
$550 on sale...

I'll take donations! :) The offset would be waaay wrong anyway. This cost me, uhhh, 10 welding rods, some cutoff wheels, some electricity, and some sleep.
[;)[;)

I took them to the powder coater today. All in all this whole ordeal wasn't too expensive, but I'm trying not to think about it too hard. $120 to strip 4 wheels, and $165 to coat "two" wheels. $25 for a U-joint, etc. Earthman donated some 16 inch wheels, since I decided not to use the 15s. My brother donated the 22.5s, the axle was free. Man I'm tired though.

Last time, I spray-painted the wheels. This whole do-it-right-the-first-time thing made me decide to get them powder coated.
 
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