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Charley Davidson

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
1,153
Location
In my bus in Murfreesboro, Tn
Since I'm not really ready to start doing a lot to it yet I thought I'd post it here instead of in builds.

I have a 64 Dodge D100 I want to channel the cab, chop the top and shorten the frame in the rear. I have already taken the stepside bed off and started a flat bed frame now I want to cut the frame off at the rear spring perch and make the bed that short also. But since this is gonna be my shop truck also I need all the bed I can get so my plan is to make the rear of the bed slide out to support longer loads, I want all of this concealed too (i have some Ideas drawn up in my mind)

How would this truck look fenderless and is that advisable for an everyday driver? Rain & weather conditions a real problem? I live in Nashville area so winter is pretty mild.

How much chop and how much channel?

I plan to keep the slant 6 and rebuild it this winter when I have enough funds.
64 dodge.jpg

64 dodge interior.jpg
 
heres a bed idea. dont mind the colors, im kinda board lol.

the big pink rig, have a hanging down roll pan type, but lift it up and slide out some tubing and its longer.

lil yeller rig, make your bed in 2 sections and the rear part slides back to handle the longer stuff.

just stuff floating around in my nugget.

beds.png
 
heres a bed idea. dont mind the colors, im kinda board lol.

the big pink rig, have a hanging down roll pan type, but lift it up and slide out some tubing and its longer.

lil yeller rig, make your bed in 2 sections and the rear part slides back to handle the longer stuff.

just stuff floating around in my nugget.

beds.png

the coon tail is awesome.


the only real problem i see with either of these idea (the only two i had as well -- is that the "extension" part wouldnt be able to hold near the weight
without figuring out some bracing -- if this is just so sheets of plywood or whatever arent hanging off the back, then id say your fine, but you couldnt put something like bags of concrete on the extension i wouldnt think
 
Don't take the fenders off. It won't look good unless you put a TON of tought and work into it. I also would suggest not channeling it and Z'ing the frame under the cab instead - unless you're really short. Think about how much leg room you'll lose if you channel it. Bobbing the tail that short might not look right either.
 
After looking at the truck a few minutes ago I realized the fenderless would be almost impossible on this truck just because they go back past the cab quite a ways.

The rear of this truck is super easy to lower but the front not so much. I don't see how I will save anymore room by Z,ing the frame over channeling [S I still will have to tunnel the tranny deeper into the cab. These trucks sit stupid high, way too much space in the front fender wheel clearance

I have also thought of making the nose tilt.

The only thing I really have a good handle on at this time id the telescoping bed. It will be really sweet and completely concealed when not extended.

I would also like to find a good hood so I can use the one I have now to put into the roof so I have the same design in the hood & roof
 
If you channel it, it raises the entire floor by that amount, not just the trans tunnel. So your knees wind up in your nose.
 
Thats where you guys come in[S:confused:
RE: Curved windshield chop.

I've seen a couple videos on youtube of guys shortening curved windshields. It looks like alot of work to sand them down or use the right bit in a Dremel Tool and then when you're almost done the windshield may crack anyway. I would just keep that in mind. Most guys would say they don't mind the days work until it turns to scrap afterwards. If you still want to try it, your better have a source for at least a second windshield. I've found that even shops that may cut them down for you won't garrantee it won't crack either. Just what I've read about anyway.
 
There are unfinished chop jobs for sale that are for sale because there isn't any easy way to get a windshield to fit. I know one guy who is administrator on another forum who bought just such a truck. I did see an episode of American hotrod where they made a metal template of the windshield and too it to a glass shop that built a windshield but that has to be really expensive I would think.
 
I never picked this truck it picked me. The guy wanted $600 and I ended up getting it and a tandem axle trailer for $275, he piled well over $150 of scrap on the trailer then I scrapped the bed off the truck for another $25 scrapped another bed (1of 2) I got off his neighbor along with some other scrap he gave me for $50 then sold the good bed for $100 & 2 old tailgates so basically I'm in this truck for free or paid to take it away.

After looking around it really is a rare truck as nobody seems to have them or use them for projects and after all the thumbs up I get on the road I started kinda liking it, I really wanted an old Apache or something way older.

So I'm gonna take this lemon and add some tequila and have a party.[cl

It is a challenge
 
What kind of bed is it? Slabside or stepside? Post up a side shot of it and maybe I'll photochop it if I get time.
 
if it is a stepside, shorten the bed in the front to remove/eliminate the lil step area then shorten the frame and th rear of the bed to "balance" it out proportion wise

to lower it don't chop the thing up too much-if i remember right that is a staight axle truck, so flip the axle on top of the leaf-pack and you should really low in front...and on the cheap too!;)

don't ruin it with a chop top attempt--it''l bite you where it hurts...
you can get the thing goin this way, attempt to modify it more later if ya feel like it

i learned to drive in dad's 62 slant 6 d-100, wish we had it still...:(
 
The bed has been removed & scrapped, I have a flatbed frame built and temporarily welded in place. I decided after the fact to shorten everything.

Seems these things are a bit of a bitch to lower in the front, some guys do it by removing springs, some by having them re-arched. 3" is about the max before bump steer becomes a problem and 3" on one of these really isn't near enough.

If I can drop the cab that seems to be the least work and expense and really look good.

My first real issue is the engine, rebuild/replace? Gonna google for a target engine now.
 
Get a dropped axle, best way to lower it. If you look it is probably only about 3 inches off the stops now so any attempt to re-arc or even flip the axle will take all of the travel and it will be banging the stops on every little bump.
 
BEDSLIDE Truck Bed Slide

It seems like you could conceal a BEDSLIDE into the truck bed. This would give your truck the cargo management you are looking for in a shop truck. If you haven't checked them out it is definitely worth taking a look.

http://www.bedslide.com/
 
I've seen them before. Kinda takes away from the rat rod way too pricey, you would have all that money in them and still have to do a **** load of fabricating.

The bed is about the only thing on the truck that I definitely know what I'm gonna do and how.
 
Fiberglass Mold for Chopped Windshields

Any plans on how to deal with the curved windshield after you chop it?

Thats where you guys come in[S:confused:

Have at least 2 good windshields to start with. Be prepared for 1 to break before you and they are done working it over. Talk to a couple glass shops, explain what you are trying to do, and be willing to pay twice or more for their time, not holding them responsible for breakage.

Buy a bunch of fiberglass cloth, resin and a bottle of "fiberglass mold release". You can find it on ebay, searching for "fiberglass mold release" or "PVA mold release".

Follow the directions on the release agent, and make a mold of the windshield. Realize, you may ruin the windshield if directions are not followed, you don't apply it properly, or you have some bad luck lol. For this reason, if you have a cracked windshield, I would use it to make the mold. Trim the mold down to fit the opening after you determine the chop amount. The glass shop can cut your windshield to match the mold you have fit to the opening. This makes you TOTALLY responsible for the fit when done. You may need to cut some off the bottom and the top to get the best fit. A couple referrence marks with a permanent marker before trimming... on the windshield and the mold will make it easy to align when it is time to cut.

Keep the chop reasonable... even a couple inches will be noticed. If you can't make a mold of the windshield that fits the top... you have gone too far. Like previously mentioned, there are many chopped rigs out there that can't get glass cut to fit. Try not to join that club.

LRR
 

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