rear frame flip to underslung 52 Chevy 3600

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jamesgs4

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2012
Messages
138
this seems like the cheapest option compared to an axle flip, z job, and c-notch.
pros? cons? anyone here do this before?

bueller? bueller?
 
pics or better explanation

not exactly sure what you are asking.

do you want to lower the truck or put the axle housing on top of the leaf springs or what?

to get mine low enough we had to C-notch the rear frame and put the rear-end on top of the lef springs.

Later :cool:
 
no, I mean cut off the rear half of the frame and flip it upside down so that the leaves are on top of the frame, and the axle is in between the frame and springs. no notch is needed this way.
 
OK

l don't know, me l'd just C or Z it.

seems that if ya hit bumps the housing would beat itself against the frame and the geometry would be off.

any one here do this before?

l hope the expert's chime in.

Later :cool:
 
Like this?Thats gonna make for a crappy ride wont it?
 

Attachments

  • HMX-rearsuspension_3637_resized.jpg
    HMX-rearsuspension_3637_resized.jpg
    27.5 KB · Views: 79
the axle would be above the frame. here is a pic of an underslung front, just do the same to the rear.
attachment.php
 
suspension shop

are there any suspension shops in the area?

you could ask them or call some one like art morrison in Tacoma Washington who builds chassis and does all kinds of suspension work on every thing from rods to race cars.

here is the ## to Morrison's:

1-800-929-7188

1-253- 922-7188

fax 1-253-922-8847

Later :cool:
 
I guess that guy did it.lol I still think that the spring travel would be very limited mounted like that, but cant say some of the other ways dont ride rough too.
 
I think it may be ok for the rear, but the front doesn't look that cool. Most likely i'll just end up with an s10 frame, a lot less work than modding the hell out of a stock frame.
 
the axle would be above the frame. here is a pic of an underslung front, just do the same to the rear.
attachment.php

If I where going to do it, (and I haven't) I would make sure the shackles mounted in the opposite direction as normal!!
For instence, in this pic the shackles will become straight under load, and you will lose the ability to spring! They should point forward in this application!!

Just a Thought!!
 
cool

so with full set of fenders, the S-1O frame wouldn't matter much 'couse the general public probably would never see it.


l'd just use the S-1O frame if it is all ready set up and easier to use.

my 48 dodge truck has a 1977 nova sub-frame grafted to the original frame, l love the I F S and would never go back to a straight axle.

[my opinion only, valid where prohibited, for official abuse only.]


Later :cool:
 
Skull
Thank you! I've had people tell me my IFS is ugly but i don't think they have ever driven one?
And yes mine is somewhat visable. [;)
 
mine

all mine get the I f S whether fenderless or not.

the 30ish dodge sedan, the 35 chevy 5 window coupe and the 40ish street legal race car all will have M II style I F S.

now back to your'e regular scheduled thread:D

Later :cool:
 
If I where going to do it, (and I haven't) I would make sure the shackles mounted in the opposite direction as normal!!
For instence, in this pic the shackles will become straight under load, and you will lose the ability to spring! They should point forward in this application!!

Just a Thought!!

Another thought related to this one... You would also have to completely disassemble the leaf spring packs and reverse the order of the leaves, stacking them inside the arch of the leaf spring. If you don't do this, you will only have the spring action of the main leaf, essentialy acting as a monoleaf suspension.:(

Personally, I'd be worried about the results of a spring to axle U-bolt failure, as well. Consider that the ENTIRE weight of the vehicle would be supported by those U-bolts, under tension!! :eek: Sixteen thin bolts, Grade 8 or not, seems like VERY LITTLE keeping your vehicle from hitting the pavement.:eek: If the spring fails, the chassis won't come down and hit the axle, WHOOPS! It just dug into the road.... Probably wouldn't be a whole lot of fun @ 60-70 MPH...

Just a few things to consider for safety's sake.

If you're gonna run full fenders, I'd seriously consider the later model chassis swap, either S-10 or Dakota. There are several build threads, some time browsing the "Builds" section would be well invested.

Regards,
Shea:)
 
as much as I would like to keep a straight axle front end, I will prob just do the s10 frame swap. After crunching numbers it will be tons cheaper to find a s10 and swap it vs. buying a new welder,modding my factory frame, changing over to 1/2 ton front,power disc brake conversion, new rear axle, custom driveshaft, dropped axle etc...
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top