Rust and oxide removal

[goose-em]

First ask yourself what "rust" is made of? Answer: Iron Oxide

2nd ask yourself what the mill scale on hot rolled steel is made of? Answer: iron oxide

Next ask yourself how much grinding, etc. you have done trying to remove either one? Answer: mucho grande!

Now we have all seen the vinegar and battery charge trick, we have seen the sandblasting trick, but what about another alternative????

Go down to the local hardware store and buy yourself some concrete cleaner and some good acid resistant gloves.

Pour it in a PLASTIC bucket and put your parts in there for about 10 or 15 minutes.

Get yourself a sponge and wipe it off, walla, no more rust or mill scale. Thats right, WIPE IT OFF.

It is that easy, heavy rust takes longer but it still works. The concrete cleaner is 20% acid so don't leave it out for the kiddies or leave your parts in to long.

 

[King Herald]

Muriatic acid they call it where I am, and it is approx 50% hydrochloric acid!

I'd not go wiping it off with a sponge and calling it a day. Wash it off with copious amounts of water and make sure it don't get it your eyes, or you don't breathe the fumes. It can kill you, or blind you, or both. Think 'Mustard Gas'.

One thing I did was leave it in an open bucket overnight, by mistake, and next day the vapours/fumes had eaten into everything bare metal in my shop and set a fine coat of rust on it.

 

[sgtpontiac]

Muric Acid is nasty stuff..... I don't think I'd be

using it to get rid of rust..... at least not in a closed confined area without appropriate breathing apparatus....... and yes....it was the main ingredient in Mustard gas..... Nasty stuff..... JMHO..... i'll just keep sanding it off for now... they do have safe rust dissolvers but they aren't cheap.... so I'll just keep sanding...no offense goose-em ...

 

[sneakysnake]

This seems to work pretty good and is cheap enough and can be found at most paint and lumber yards.

 

[sgtpontiac]

I'd be interested in that....

I'll check the local ACE see if they have it... if not might be a good excuse to go down to the Home D Pot or Lowes to see if they have it.... considering gas prices....I'll call....lol
Thanks sneaky

 

[goose-em]

I should have mentioned that you will need to rinse the part in a mixture of baking soda and water when complete to neutralize the acid.

And yes, taking safety precautions is necessary, ventilated area, respirator, etc.

 

[King Herald]

I should have mentioned that you will need to rinse the part in a mixture of baking soda and water when complete to neutralize the acid.

And yes, taking safety precautions is necessary, ventilated area, respirator, etc.

Baking soda eh? That must be the key ingredient, as water alone doesn't quite seem to stop the acid action.

I have had to spray it with WD40 as soon as I swilled it off, or it rusts immediately, probably still some acid action going on.

But it works killer with heavy rust in places you can't get to, like inside vented disc brakes.

(not that we rat rodders would ever use such a monstrosity)

 

[sgtpontiac]

You know what they say....

Baking soda eh? That must be the key ingredient, as water alone doesn't quite seem to stop the acid action.

I have had to spray it with WD40 as soon as I swilled it off, or it rusts immediately, probably still some acid action going on.

But it works killer with heavy rust in places you can't get to, like inside vented disc brakes.

(not that we rat rodders would ever use such a monstrosity)

Necessity is the mother of invention!....

 

[goose-em]

and another word of advice, buy some litmus paper and check after you rinse to ensure neutral Ph.

I use this process at work on a consistent basis.

You can also do this in reverse order with a slightly stronger base:

soak in sodium hydroxide 50% solution, (always pour the acid or base into the water and not the other way around assuming you mix it yourself) Also remember to mix sodium hydroxide in glass as it gets hot and can melt plastic, allow to cool before using and then you can put it in plastic. Do not store in glass or it will eat it.

rinse with nitric acid solution (5% acid to water same mixing rule applies) Store this in glass.

rinse with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) I use 100 grams to 900 ml of water or 11% solution.

rinse with plain water

Check with litmus paper while wet

Continue to rinse with water until Ph is neutral

As a side note doing it this way will also clean aluminum from steel without touching the steel. No more than 30 minutes in the sodium hydroxide or the steel will degrade.

 

[Old Dude]

I got to agree with Sneakysnake. Ospho does wonders. It also turns rust back into Iron. I wouldn't be without it. When I lived in Fla, I stripped a roof on a 57 Chevy. Coated it with Oshpo. It was 2 weeks later before I could get at it again. The roof was still shiny. Oh yeah, The car was parked outside all the time, and we all know that Fla has humidity.

 

[deadbodyman]

This seems to work pretty good and is cheap enough and can be found at most paint and lumber yards.

I've been using Ospho well over 25yrs to remove rust ,Its ALL I use...
Anything else and your taking chances so forget about using any other acid products,This is tried and true and doesn't need to be neautralized,If there are any other products out there that work they are copying Ospho ,its been around since the 40's....Ospho and epoxy primer is THE killer combo..
And dont think for a minute that epoxy primers are all the same either there is only one that stands out.....