the 55' willy's build

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i ran my fuel line last night it went alot easyer than i was expecting
its all hard line with the exception of the ends where it connects to the fuel pump in the front and the filter in the back by the tank

i also got me a cheapo tube bender for checker auto parts for 12 bucks it worked really good
 

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3/16" will work just fine. Also, the fittings for that size are your standard size to fit most wheel & master cylinders.
 
ok so if im mountin my master cylinder under my floor
will the combo valve attached to the master be enough or do i have to still get me some 2lb and 10lb valves inline too will the combo valve do everything nessasary for good brakes im running a disc/drum setup
 
along with the combo valve or should i get rid of the combo valve
most hot rod brake diagrams ive seen online do not show a combo valve just residual (sp) valves
 
moto, I'm no brake expert but I'll do my best until someone else has some better info. The combination valve is not a bad piece as one of it's functions is to hold off pressure to the front disks until the rear drums reach a predetermined pressure. They also usually have a 10 pound rpv built into them, so if you use the combo valve, you could probably just add a 2 pound rpv to the front disk line. That being said, I rarely use the combination valve. I just use rpv's and an adjuatable proportioning valve in the rear brake line. I almost always plumb my braking system in this manner and have yet to have any issues.

I believe that a brake system expert will tell you to use a metering or combination valve, but in most cases, I don't.
 
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Earlier this summer had the chance to talk to a guy from SSBC. He said a that you can get good, safe results using the rpv's & an adjustable proportioning valve. Use that setup on Mamma's pickup & it works just fine.
 
well i dont have any pictures to proove it...but i got my jeep master cylinder mounted under the floor i had to get rid of the power booster for space reasons i was able to use the factory brake pedal and deleted the clutch pedal i went and bought my residual valves before thanksgiving ...i bought a double flare kit (i already hadone but all my double flair dies were missing)
i still need to buy steel line and a 3-way fitting and the rubber lines banjo bolts and a pressure switch for the lights then i can install it all

using the factory brake pedal i have pretty good leverage and i shouldnt miss power brakes too bad


am i supposed to use 1/4 inch line to the back axle before it splits to 3/8?
or just use 3/8 for the whole system

ill post pics soon:D:D
 
Thanks maddog,ive got the brakes all figured out jeep wrangler master mounted under the floor using the factory willys pedal i eliminated the clutch pedal ran all of the lines and installed my rpv's and pressure switch bled them and had no leaks i was scared a few would leak i had to do alot of flares


im thinking its time to set the cab on for the first time and figure where to mount my steering box

im not shure if i should use the factory box for push/pull steering
or use the power steering box out of my doner car set up for cross steering (68 bel air wagon)
some input on this matter would be cool:D
 
I had a 60 Willys station wagon with a SBC and no power steering, no problem
No power steering in my 46 Chevy truck with a SBC and no problem

Those things I know.:D
 

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