to cut or not to cut a i-beam axle

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

26Troadster

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2007
Messages
4,038
i've got a old rambler that i want to put a straight axle in. i got one from a dodge a100 laying out in the back yard, that i figure is to wide for the car. i was talking to a buddy and told him i was looking for some straight axles to find one like i need . he asked me why i didn't narrow the one i had to fit. i was always told never cut and weld i-beam axles. what do yall think?
 
you can do it if you are a good welder. the axle itself is forged. just bevel both sides and weld it up good then plate the back side real well. from what i have read and talked to other traditionalists, this was common practice
 
I've done 5 of them. Just the way Cornfield Customs says. Make sure you get the kingpin inclination right and the caster the same side to side and you'll be golden.
 
A common practice with the older modified dirt track cars. Cut down half way, cut across as far as needed, and cut down the remaining half. Your cut then looks like a step. Remove an equal amount from the 'tails', and slide it together. If you figure it out so you have a 6 inch over lap, it will be plenty strong and keep the alignment.
 

Attachments

  • Narrowed axle.jpg
    Narrowed axle.jpg
    67.9 KB · Views: 105
A common practice with the older modified dirt track cars. Cut down half way, cut across as far as needed, and cut down the remaining half. Your cut then looks like a step. Remove an equal amount from the 'tails', and slide it together. If you figure it out so you have a 6 inch over lap, it will be plenty strong and keep the alignment.

Sniper, that is a great way to narrow a beam axle, strong and invisible when finished properly.

I had a friend with a 74 Comet that he had a shop put in an Econoline front axle for the gasser look. The shop that did it narrowed the Econoline axle by simply cutting out a section, welding it together and plating it front and back, so you'd think that would be plenty strong, but when he put a floor jack under the center of the axle and jacked it up, the axle bent like butter!!:eek: We had to strap it down in the middle and jack the ends up to correct the bend, and it wasn't that tough to bend it back !!

I'd have to guess that by welding plates in on both sides made too much heat and took out any temper there was in the axle.
Moral of the story - more is not always better when it comes to heat and metal.
 
thanks fellas, i had always been told never, but i've heard of it being done. the over lap was something i was looking at if i decided to do the cut, and scab, it always makes for a stronger weld, and burying it in floor dry was the last thought for after welding. so i guess i will start building me a jig.
 
I've done it--just to see if I could--works. Use low hydrogen rod- Turn the heat up --stick the rod IN the puddle (drop N drag) -step cut the center cut so you have plenty of weld run.

I used an aftermarket shortened axle of the same style as a jig--kingpin to kingpin.

Just to say ya can..

RPM might make ya one pretty reasonable.

PA41
 
hey paul long time. i want to stick to a older axle on this car. i thought about ron and speedway but dicied to go with a old one.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top