One Way To Chop A Top

If you ask 100 people, you will get 100 answers on the right way to chop a top. Everybody has their own way of doing it. About a year ago my Son and I chopped the top on my '39 Dodge pickup. Actually, I assisted, Dan did the brainwork and most of the actual chopping. But I did help lift the top off and on about 30 times to help get a good fit.

When you chop a top, generally you need to either make the top part longer, or the bottom part shorter so that they line up after you hack out a few inches. Just imagine a pyramid. If you sliced a section out of the middle, the top would now be lots smaller than the bottom, so something would need shrunk or lengthened. To do this, you can either:

A) Add metal to the roof part to make it longer, or

B) Slant the windshield back to meet up with the smaller top section.

Of the two, I like the slanted method as I think it looks sleeker, plus it entails less bodywork by not having to section in additional metal to stretch the roof. That is how we did mine.

Before you start cutting, the body has to be firmly bolted or clamped to something that does not move, like the frame or a jig. And you want to put some kind of structure inside the body to keep the door alignment and sideways alignment. Old angle iron or similar is fine, and you just tack weld it into place so it can be removed when you are done.

One thing that is weird is, when you chop the top and slant the windshield, you cut LESS out of the windshield pillars than the back of the roof. For example, we did a 5 inch chop in the rear, but only cut 3.5 out of the front pillars. The reason is, when you lean them back, you lose some of the height of the pillars, and need that extra metal to fill the gap.

Here are some early on shots of the chop we did. Picture one is before the chop.

I'll add more as soon as my typing fingers rest up.

Don

Ok, I have some feeling back in my fingers again.

There are also two schools of thought on the doors. Some people cut the top with the doors on, and some do the doors seperately, and remove them during the chop operation. I like to take them off, and fit them back like a jigsaw puzzle after the top is done. The reason is because having them off gives you total access to the interior of the car while working on it, and you can match up the side window openings to the newly created shape of the door opening if you cut a little off and keep welding it back onto the doors, until you get a good fit.

During the chop, the metal will want to go different directions, and you may have to put slits in some of the parts and "pie cut" them to stretch or shrink metal to get the two sections (top and bottom) to line up. We used strap hinges, C clamps, and anything else we could get our hands on to do the pulling and pushing.

We had the top off and on about 30 times, grinding just a hair, and trying it again, until we got a very tight seam fit. My Son is a perfectionist and if something is 1/ 16th out, he won't weld it, so it kept coming off and on until he was satisfied. Drove me nuts, but I gotta admit, it made a good job when it was done.

Here are some more shots.

Don

Torn!

Don,
I am torn between adding metal to stretch the top out to meet the front posts or leaning the front posts back. I'm leaning to angling the post back because I am with u... I like the look. But I have wondered if that will cause problems with putting in the windshield. Also, I think I want to angle chop it too. 3-4" in front & 4-5 in the back. Here's my Photochopped rendition I pasted red Bigs & Littles on. I also chopped the bed a little! Any advice would b appreciated!

Plus, I *just* talked to my buddy & he's gonna sell me the brand new Bigs & Littles off his '32 roadster he just finished because he's goin' to Torque Thrust II's instead. They r brand new & don't even have 10 miles on 'um plus he cut me a super deal!!! Yipppeeeee!!!

BoB

No, as long as you pull the bottom part of the windshield posts back, and the part that is attached to the top forward, and get a straight line when welded, it should be fine. We removed the dash by cutting the spot welds, because the posts didn't want to lay back easily with it still in place. Once we got the posts rewelded, we can now reinstall the dash.

I like your chop idea. Looks good in the photoshop.

Here, these may show the windshield pillars better.

Don

Better git it n gear!

donsrods said:

There are also two schools of thought on the doors. Some people cut the top with the doors on, and some do the doors seperately, and remove them during the chop operation. I like to take them off, and fit them back like a jigsaw puzzle after the top is done. The reason is because having them off gives you total access to the interior of the car while working on it, and you can match up the side window openings to the newly created shape of the door opening if you cut a little off and keep welding it back onto the doors, until you get a good fit.


Don

Click to expand...

Don,
I have seen it done both ways too but I am with u on the door chop. The other way just does not make sense to me. Maybe if I had more experience but I still don't trust myself that much. I'm sure I'll have to return to this when I actually get to that point. I'm nearly done with the front suspension, then the rear, channel... then top. I better get it in gear to make Autorama which is Thanksgiving weekend.

Thanks again,
BoB <----- off to do honey-dos!!!

BoB

Thanks for the how-to Don. I've always wanted to chop a top but haven't had occasion to yet. You offer some great insight here. When do you plan to continue work on the truck, after the roadster goes back together?

Yeah, I keep looking at it sitting there, and the hard stuff is all done.....frame is built, subframe is in, engine all built, rear suspension and front suspension done, etc. Really won't take much to get it running, especially since I am not going to go nuts on it appearancewise. (where have I heard that before?) Plus, I have all the major purchases out of the way.

As soon as the T is running I will start again on the truck. Dan and I were partners in the truck in the beginning, but then he found his Fordor and got interested in it, so I bought him out. He is actually the one who did all the hard work, like building the frame and all. One Christmas he built the subframe for the cab for me for a Xmas gift, and that put the project way ahead. I am really looking forward to this one getting on the road.

Don

I have to agree with Don. I chopped The Bonehead Truck by adding the strip of steel across the top and moving the whole thing forward. I mainly did this for the time savings, I was thinking that would be the easier of the two, but the slant back looks the best. Seems to give them a faster look.

It really is a personal thing, some like it stretched and some slanted. Yours looks great as it is.

Don

Nice work Don. I realy like that truck, cant wait to see it on the road.

I'd love to do mine, but 52 F1's are a toughie. Not only are they narrower at the top from front to rear, but also from side to side. I'd have to cut the roof in four pieces, and the door window frames in two pieces. Then get a donor roof for the fill-ins.

Top chop book!

Lakota said:

I'd love to do mine, but 52 F1's are a toughie. Not only are they narrower at the top from front to rear, but also from side to side. I'd have to cut the roof in four pieces, and the door window frames in two pieces. Then get a donor roof for the fill-ins.

Click to expand...

Lakota,
I recently bought several top chopping books on Amazon & 1 of the features was a truck like yours. I'll see if I can find it again, think it might be a good guideline for u.

BoB

Lakota said:

I'd love to do mine, but 52 F1's are a toughie. Not only are they narrower at the top from front to rear, but also from side to side. I'd have to cut the roof in four pieces, and the door window frames in two pieces. Then get a donor roof for the fill-ins.

Click to expand...

Well, that doesn't sound like any fun. But the end result sure would be cool.

tripper,

this seems perfect for a sticky in the projects thread. just keep posting the progress and pics.

Done!

getcarter said:

tripper,

this seems perfect for a sticky in the projects thread. just keep posting the progress and pics.

Click to expand...

Done...................

doors

Shure would like to see how u made the doors fit....looks good Shane

I recently attended a top chopping school put on by Gene Winfield. he is a master at chopping mercuries. I have chopped a couple of mercs,shoeboxes and pickups. At the school we chopped a top on a 4 door 50 mercury. I have never seen a 4 door merc chopped that I like. he chopped the top completely differant than I would have and it turned out really nice. he also touched on leading[which is becoming a lost art]t's true you can chop a top many differant ways and come out with the same look or with a totally differant look. Always plan your chop don't just start. I've done that too. You can usually salvage a bad chop. Measure twice and cut once. I always use the old torch with a number 2 0r 3 tip on it and hammer weld every weld. You can mig one but it's tougher to hammer your joints back into place. Don I like the way your cab came out. Looks good. TP

Thanks TP. That had to be a thrill working beside Gene. I remember the episode of Monster Garage where he, Bill Hines, Norm Grabowski, and I forget the other guys chopped and sectioned that Chevy. What masters they are.

You had to walk away with some great knowledge. I envy you.

Don

Yes it was a thrill working with him. I've known Gene for a few years. He is good friends with a good friend of mine is how I meet him. He contacted me once and I picked up some parts for him and we struck up a friendship. He puts on a school every year in Midland ,Texas. I'll post the schools next date. It cost $300.00 for 2 days of schooling. Worth every penny. I've chopped a few tops and learned a few tricks from the school. I actually went out a couple of days earlier and Gene and I stayed with our friend. During those 2 days we suicided the doors on a chopped 49 merc. gene hates suicide doors by the way. he told me that proabaly 20 times. he is a funny guy also. Don't think you will work the 80 year old man down either. We would start at 7:00 and work until midnight some times. Keep your ladies away from him also. gene doesn't even need or wear glasses. I will attend the school again next year. I'll post it when dates are set. They are actually thinking about Gene putting on a paint school also. If they do I'll go to it too. I'll post information as I get it. My son usually prints the flyers for them. TP

donsrods said:

No, as long as you pull the bottom part of the windshield posts back, and the part that is attached to the top forward, and get a straight line when welded, it should be fine.

Don

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Ok, I have a question. Could we see some Door pics? (if you have gotten that far) For my 52 chevy PU I am thinking about ditching the vent windows because it will be easier if I use your method. I defentiyl like the your idea over adding a strip down the center! I am most interested in what massaging the forward window pillar in the door will need.
thanks! Excellent article!