Are air bags a good rat rod suspension??

The current Rat Rod Magazine had a really cool article on suspensions...I have never used air bags so I was wondering are they worth looking at and how hard are they to get up an running?
I know Josh over at Village Customs I think runs nothing but air bags...my background is oval track stuff so leaf springs and coil springs and coil overs and all metal type suspensions...
Anybody have any insight I would love hear what you all think.
Thanks in advance.

I've done three of them and honestly don't much care for them.
Don't like waiting for the air and to fill up of a morning.
My biggest suggestion is to use DOT fittings which are not cheap.

My buddy just grafted in a 1-ton front independent suspension in his '66 truck and put air bags in it. He likes it- the options of down low or up higher. If he ever lost air the wheels would rub so he is deciding to either put relief in the fender wells, or a spacer in the bump stops. Definitely DOT fittings like OI said.

I like seeing it and even thought about it for my '58 but honestly don't think I'll ever cross that bridge...

I've thought about it, but every person I know with air bags says the same thing "All air suspensions leak." I don't need more potential failure/maintenance points, so I don't know that I'll ever go full air bags.

When I built my Fiat I had air bags in the rear. Before I finished the car I took them out and used coil springs instead. Just seemed like there was less chance of a failure with the coils.

This one is super subjective. It really depends on what you are looking for. I have an air ride and experience working on the "kneeling" city busses that use air bags since back in the 80's. In my current vehicle I have an air ride. There are some downsides like mentioned. Leaks, bags popping, etc. That being said I LOVE mine. I don't air out every night so no waiting. Mine will hold air for ~ 1 week. You need to drain the moisture once in a while or your tank will rust inside and leak. Red-Kote your tank inside prior to use will help. Drier between the pump and tank is also helpful but need to maintain it. Many people are not experienced at using push-loc connectors so there are problems there. They have small O-rings that seal on the plastic tubing. Another leak point. You can help yourself out with larger dia tubing to air up faster. Larger tanks with isolation valves right at the tank to keep air in them help too. Most wait time is waiting for the tanks to air up. If they have air already it is automatic lift. The ride quality is awesome. Nice to air out and get in the weeds at shows. I know some people that autocross with air bags and they like it. Really depends on what you are looking for. Much less expensive than 4 corners coil overs even going with an expensive kit. Pretty easy setup. Tons of tubing running but its fairly easy.

JRen said:

This one is super subjective. It really depends on what you are looking for. I have an air ride and experience working on the "kneeling" city busses that use air bags since back in the 80's. In my current vehicle I have an air ride. There are some downsides like mentioned. Leaks, bags popping, etc. That being said I LOVE mine. I don't air out every night so no waiting. Mine will hold air for ~ 1 week. You need to drain the moisture once in a while or your tank will rust inside and leak. Red-Kote your tank inside prior to use will help. Drier between the pump and tank is also helpful but need to maintain it. Many people are not experienced at using push-loc connectors so there are problems there. They have small O-rings that seal on the plastic tubing. Another leak point. You can help yourself out with larger dia tubing to air up faster. Larger tanks with isolation valves right at the tank to keep air in them help too. Most wait time is waiting for the tanks to air up. If they have air already it is automatic lift. The ride quality is awesome. Nice to air out and get in the weeds at shows. I know some people that autocross with air bags and they like it. Really depends on what you are looking for. Much less expensive than 4 corners coil overs even going with an expensive kit. Pretty easy setup. Tons of tubing running but its fairly easy.

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"Much less expensive". Sure, I'll bite. Let's unpack that, then.

Since they offer both air and coilover kits, let's look at Ridetech kits for 3 example vehicles:

1. Vehicle 1: 64 Impala:
   1. Air Ride Kit: Complete kit with control arms, sway bars, bags and mounts, shocks and mounts $4,820. That's no compressor, though, add $2,665 for their cheapest compressor system with tank, dual compressors, valves, wiring, control valves, air line and fittings. Total combined $7,485.
   2. Coilover Kit: Complete kit with shocks, springs, control arms, and sway bars $5,145. $2,340 cheaper.
2. Vehicle 2: 1967 C10:
   1. Air Ride Kit: Complete kit with control arms, front sway bar, rear c-notch and truck arms, shocks, spindles, mounts, etc $6,855. Add $2,665 for the compressor as above. Total $9,520
   2. Coilover Kit: Complete kit with shocks, springs, control arms, front sway bar, rear c notch and truck arms $7,120. $2,400 cheaper.
3. Vehicle 3: 2004 Mustang:
   1. Air Ride Kit: Front and rear kit including front strut/bags, rear strut/bags, and rear upper and lower arms $3,230 plus $2,415 for cheapest Ridetech compressor control setup. Total combined $5,645.
   2. Coilover Kit: Front and rear coilover struts, rear upper and lower arms $3,180. $2,465 cheaper.

Maybe you could cobble an air kit for cheaper than a coilover set up (doubt it), but apples to apples in the type of kit, coilovers are a lot cheaper. It makes sense, as they have a lot less supporting stuff. There's also a lot more simplicity and less maintenance. As you said, your car holds air for a week, you need to drain your tank, need to service your air drier, O-rings eventually fail, etc. Old fashioned springs are a heck of a lot easier and more reliable and don't require any of that related maintenance. Aired out can sometimes look cool, but IMO sometimes those vehicles look goofy at ride height. With a good static stance, it always looks good.

Airlift 3p systems are the way to go in my opinion. 2 compressors and at least a 5 gallon tank. Secure your line to prevent chaffing. Use good brass fittings. They make plastic dot fittings but the will leak. Make sure you have plenty of clearance for the bags at all air pressures.

Your system should hold air for more than a night. If you spend the time to seal everything they will hold for a while.

I love bagged cars. They ride so smooth.

I personally run a York AC compressor for my personal truck. 200psi from empty at an idle in about 45-60 seconds. No loud electric compressors

05snopro440 said:

"Much less expensive". Sure, I'll bite. Let's unpack that, then.

Since they offer both air and coilover kits, let's look at Ridetech kits for 3 example vehicles:

1. Vehicle 1: 64 Impala:
   1. Air Ride Kit: Complete kit with control arms, sway bars, bags and mounts, shocks and mounts $4,820. That's no compressor, though, add $2,665 for their cheapest compressor system with tank, dual compressors, valves, wiring, control valves, air line and fittings. Total combined $7,485.
   2. Coilover Kit: Complete kit with shocks, springs, control arms, and sway bars $5,145. $2,340 cheaper.
2. Vehicle 2: 1967 C10:
   1. Air Ride Kit: Complete kit with control arms, front sway bar, rear c-notch and truck arms, shocks, spindles, mounts, etc $6,855. Add $2,665 for the compressor as above. Total $9,520
   2. Coilover Kit: Complete kit with shocks, springs, control arms, front sway bar, rear c notch and truck arms $7,120. $2,400 cheaper.
3. Vehicle 3: 2004 Mustang:
   1. Air Ride Kit: Front and rear kit including front strut/bags, rear strut/bags, and rear upper and lower arms $3,230 plus $2,415 for cheapest Ridetech compressor control setup. Total combined $5,645.
   2. Coilover Kit: Front and rear coilover struts, rear upper and lower arms $3,180. $2,465 cheaper.

Maybe you could cobble an air kit for cheaper than a coilover set up (doubt it), but apples to apples in the type of kit, coilovers are a lot cheaper. It makes sense, as they have a lot less supporting stuff. There's also a lot more simplicity and less maintenance. As you said, your car holds air for a week, you need to drain your tank, need to service your air drier, O-rings eventually fail, etc. Old fashioned springs are a heck of a lot easier and more reliable and don't require any of that related maintenance. Aired out can sometimes look cool, but IMO sometimes those vehicles look goofy at ride height. With a good static stance, it always looks good.

Click to expand...

You say cobble together like it's a bad thing. After all, the definition of a ratrod is you make due with what you have available. I would agree with your assessment. If you have zero fabrication skills and need every bracket to get it to fit you'll spend substantially more.
Real world example. Just bagged my 84 Buick Lesabre. No one makes a drop in kit. Found a cheap off the shelf kit delivered to the door for $750. No cobbling but had to fab brackets and new shock mount. Pump, tank, solenoids, controller included. If youre handy you can make manual valves work. HotRodBob on you tube has a nice vid of his no electronics version. For my Lesabre cheapest coil over set was $2200.

That's dirt cheap. What I have found with cheap kits is you get what you pay for. Solenoids will fail, controller will have issues. I use to install cheap kits for people on budgets, nothing but a nightmare for me later