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just read where your headers are cracking at the mounting flange. when mine did that i heliarced them from the head side opening and bronze brazed them, which stress relieved the tubes and acts as a shock absorber.

Speaking of Calculations, (if I got attaching a file right) you should be able to see a PDF file attached here showing a drawing I did for a properly sized scoop for those dual Holleys. It is not to scale, but the dimensions are on the drawing (I hope!!!) Holleys abhor air coming from the...

sounds temperature related, a weak coil or a shorted out condenser.

2 x750 is a bunch too big. On an all out race motor I would use 3 x cubic inches = CFM. In your case that would be 900CFM. While there was a few odd-ball 450cfm carbs built, finding 2 of them would be just plain luck. better yet use all the parts off the existing 750's, putting all of the parts...

those are Hudson Flower Cars, very popular in the early 50's. they would haul all the flowers from the church or mortuary to the final resting spot.

oh yea that fuel pump switch has to go, after losing 1 race because I didn't turn the pump on, I wired the main power switch to control the e-pump. the only thing in my race cars that could be left on when main power was cut was the electric water pump/fan drive to let engine cool after a run...

I told you so, I told you so, I told you so, I told you so, that 3 carbs would make that thing fly, Now cut off the choke horns, and add 6" tall velocity stacks between the air scoop and the carbs. And you'll have to add a parachute to be legal!!!!!!

also electric pump don't like to suck gas uphill, the pump should be as low as possible so the gas is almost gravity feeding the pump. and the rear filter should be between the tank and pump, to keep rust and other debris from wearing the pump out. and a 20gph pump ain't going to feed most...

check your local NAPA store, they can order complete stainless steel brake line kits for all the popular late model trucks. They come complete with every pre-bent line you'll need for that vehicle. priced from $95.00 to $150.00. you'll sleep better.

OR, as Casey Jones and Roundhouse Rodney used to sing: Happy, Happy, birthday to all boys and girls, who on this very day bring us a lot of joy!!! or better yet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfSkqMP-L-4

did you try a different spark plug, some times after flooding they get a coat of carbon and the spark doesn't jump the gap.

the curve on the hei weights does not match the curve on the old point distributers. just use the lightest springs you can find on the original weights, and try to get all the mechanical advance in by 3000rpm, a low compression sbc will tolerate as much as 42 deg total timing at 3000rpm and...

think of a coil spring as a wound up torsion bar, for a given diameter, the longer the bar the softer it is. every time you shorten a torsion there is less material to twist, thus making it stiffer. the same holds for a coil spring, removing coils, will increase the lbs per inch rating. and...

here's what you need for that rompin, stompin, AMC, oops i mean Jeep motor. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-0503/make/jeep

Looks like a shortcut to the Hospital!!

$1.80.9 per gallon Central MN.

that residue is from the minerals in the rain water, best thing ever for removing it and leaving great sealer coat on the glass is "Soft Scrub". it happens when the glass gets hot from the Sun and you get a sudden cold rain, it etches the surface. like real fine tooth paste in a squeeze bottle...

above you say "heavily siliconed carb bases". I hope you didn't put silicone RTV sealer any where in contact with gasoline, it will melt the RTV and turn it into snot balls that will migrate to the worst places possible, like inside vacuum passages of the carbs. Carb gaskets should be installed...

can't tell from the pics of the ports, if you spray a little penetrating oil in there the aluminium won't stick to the carbide. are you sure you don't want the big block in the Crosley, and shoot for some 10.10 et's?

the easiest way to test a booster is, with the engine turned off, pump the brake pedal 4-5-6 times until the pedal is rock hard. holding pedal down, start engine and idle, pedal should drop about 3/4" and be solid hard. if the pedal is mushy, you have air in the lines, or a bad m/c. if the...