1926 Dodge Brothers

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Well, we’ve made some progress and got quite a bit done (no pics)
Got all the suspension back together, fixed the geometry on the four links, installed all the brakes and brake lines and ran the gas line.

However, we’re NOT going to make it in time for the show in KC. Way too many hours at work the past few weeks coupled with just too much left to do on the car.

Guess we’ll plan on its first show being in the spring. Gives us a lot more time to shake things out and make sure they are right.
 
Finally found some time to get working on the project!

We got the 37’ Chevy headlight bucket welded into the cowl this weekend, going to mount our gauges inside it.

Never intended to paint the body, but after all the welding; we decided it would look better if we did.
 

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Been awhile!

My son and I took the day off last Friday so we could get something done on the Dodge.

We had the car running up on jack stands for about ten minutes and got all the gears to work. We wanted to be sure that all worked before bolting the body back on.

We got the body mounted back to the frame, made our throttle linkage, installed the ignition switch and finally got the steering box figured out. We just need to cut a keyway in the output shaft on the steering box and then we can mount it in for good.

All in all it was a good use of a vacation day.
 

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with that distributor in your face..you need a clear cap so you enjoy the fireworks at night:D:D
really lookin good, this build just keeps getting better and better

Tim
 
Sure would like to see this in person.So much imagination has gone into it.
Please keep the pix coming. :cool:
 
Really , Really nice S.R. ! Did you use a real cross cut saw for your visor or did you have it waterjeted up? Regardless it is very cool with the D.B. letters on it.

It’s an old band saw blade from one of our saw mills. I cut two sections out of it and then welded the sections together with the teeth running away from center. It was a bit of a trick to get it lined up in the laser machine to add the DB cut-outs, had to cut and weld a second one together to get it right.

Thanks’ everyone for the comments, helps keep us motivated. :D
 
We started this project with two very specific goals in mind. 1) Don’t spend anything more than we absolutely have to and 2) learn as much as possible in the process.
So, with those 2 goals still in mind, I’m going to try to build my own headers.
I talked with a local muffler shop and I can get all the tubing for under $40 and each bend is $1.
In an effort to figure out what bends I’ll need, I took some cardboard and mocked up a header.
It actually turned out fairly decent, I just wonder what the muffler shop will think when I take it too them.
Anyone think this is a good idea, or should I approach this a different way?
Also, do you think I’ll need to mock up the opposite hand as well?
 

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Great build, it's coming along great. I use alot of things and do alot of mock up stuff on all my builds. Having the 3d pattern is way easier to me plus I can make any changes before I build stuff depending on looks and function, plus saves material.
 
Well work has been most consuming the past few weeks, but I did get a few hours to make one of the two headers. Hope to get the other made this weekend. (First weekend I won’t be working in a while)
I took the cardboard model to the exhaust shop which worked out perfect. They made me 8 pieces to match the model and I made the two cones out of an old drive shaft tube.
Using a block off plate between the header flange and the head (to keep debris out) I tacked the header together on the motor. Then I took it off and bolted it to the same plate that we used to machine it on for finish welding. While it was still bolted to the plate I also filled it with water to check for leaks.
I then made some baffles and packed them with some ceramic/fiberglass material that’s good to 2600 deg. The baffle tubes are 1-1/4 dia.; I made a cut every 1” in each quadrant of the tube then used a hammer and punch to dimple the tube in. I welded a disk at each end with a diameter that worked with the cone of the header and added three angle tabs to bolt it on with. I then inserted the baffles and drilled thru the cone into the three tabs, then removed the baffles and welded nuts on the tabs. Painted the header with some black barbeque grill paint and bolted the baffles in. Then bolted it back on the motor.
I figured I’d get one completely done and then I’ll make the other to match it best I can.
If I don’t spend any more on them, and I do have everything for the second one, I have only spent a total of $28 for my headers.
 

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Really nice work.. I've been thinking about cutting up some cheap glasspacks to build my baffles from, but I really like yours
 

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