1933 Pontiac

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just spent two hours reading this whole thread .what a bad a$$ car.got a couple good ideas for a build I am doing.i saw the 90% brake pedal, maybe I missed it but I did not see how you did the clutch pedal and master cylinder is it reverse mounted? : Alan
 
Thanks for the complements.
Alan, the clutch master cylinder is reverse mounted. It's done with a mount and pedal that I built.
The first pic is of the 90* brake pedal and the second pic is of the clutch master cylinder. The third is of it mounted to the left of the brake pedal.
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It is for a 1990 Jeep
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You can just barely see the end of the clutch master cylinder above the pedal.
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thanks for the pics O.I. what hyd. throw out bearing did you use?I am using the same trans a super t10. is there a reason you use that jeep master cylinder? as for your color question.with that red engine, black with some red pin striping would look great . I liked the mufflers you made and they sound great.not that I dont like it, but I was wondering why you made a flange for the turn out instead of just welding it on the end to make a smooth bend with a weld bead to match the rest of the header.the mufflers you made reminded me of the fake header mufflers I made in high school shop in 1978 for my 68 camaro, that looked like a glass pack but had a straight pipe running threw with no holes or packing .they were loud. I may use your design for my truck. Alan.
 
I use the Speedway GM throwout bearing. It has a ring that keeps the ram from over extending.
I used the Jeep master because it was only $30
On the turnout, I like the slight steam punk look it gives it.
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Thanks O.I. I assume you have used this throw out before, and know it works reliably. I will have to use a hyd. clutch. not sure yet if I'll use a bearing or slave. I have never seen a hyd. clutch that was reliable. looks like it could be a PITA if there is a problem with the bearing. do you prefer the bearing over a slave cyl.? the biggest advantage I see is no fabing mounts for the slave. Thanks again for the tips. Alan
 
Alan, this bearing is used reliably in a lot of race cars.
The reason I used this in the 33 is, I have very limited room to work with.
I would use the slave style, if you have the room to put it on.
 
I know there common in dirt cars. race cars get checked closely before they go out.with street cars you want to just jump in and go and know it's going to work. broke down on a race track don't suck like broke down far from home. Thanks for the tips I appreciate it. Alan.
 
I pulled the front seat and sent it to the upholsterer Monday.
She's gonna do diamond button and tuck with black leather look alike material, pulled down into 2 1/2" foam.
The diamonds will be 3" long.
 
As I said earlier, the seat came back from the upholsterer today so I installed it :)
She's gonna do the door panels in the diamond without buttons as soon as I get the panels made :cool:
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Seats look great! Had a 46 ford business coupe done in 1970. Was squares with buttons, did the seats, door panels, headliner, console, kick panels, package tray and the rear walls. I forget how many buttons in all and the whole job cost.......................$600, my how times have changed:(
 
Seats look great! Had a 46 ford business coupe done in 1970. Was squares with buttons, did the seats, door panels, headliner, console, kick panels, package tray and the rear walls. I forget how many buttons in all and the whole job cost.......................$600, my how times have changed:(
Thanks
Yea, it's a lot more $ now on the same designs.
There's 196 buttons total in this seat :eek:
The backs are diamond stitched too, no buttons tho
I don't think I'm gonna have the buttons in the panels either.
 

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