1934 Chevrolet 4dr sedan build
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Neophyte
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Planned under-dash brake setup
2007-09-25
The first pic shows the whole master cylinder, booster and linkage setup from a Mk1 Golf that I bought recently for this project car. Normally,0 the pedal pushes the right hand linkage forward creating a pulling action on the cross link via the bell-crank shown in the second pic. That pulling action of the cross link is in turn translated into a forward pushing action into the booster via the bell-crank shown in the third pic.
I plan on modifying all this and turning the booster and m/cylinder 90 degrees so that it can fit under the dash and out of site. I don't want to spoil the firewall with mounting a brake setup there.
2007-09-25
The first pic shows the whole master cylinder, booster and linkage setup from a Mk1 Golf that I bought recently for this project car. Normally,0 the pedal pushes the right hand linkage forward creating a pulling action on the cross link via the bell-crank shown in the second pic. That pulling action of the cross link is in turn translated into a forward pushing action into the booster via the bell-crank shown in the third pic.
I plan on modifying all this and turning the booster and m/cylinder 90 degrees so that it can fit under the dash and out of site. I don't want to spoil the firewall with mounting a brake setup there.
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Neophyte
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Dollies and diff
2007-10-06
For this project I decided to make a set of dollies so I could move it around once the suspension is mounted. They bolt on in place of wheels and I designed them so that they are height adjustable to simulate the correct front and rear wheel heights I'm planning for this car. As you can see there are 10 holes in it. One set of 5 holes is Chevy PCD and the other set is Ford PCD.
There are two design flaws however. The first is the location of the upper bolts holding the adjustable plate. When bolting the dollies to a large brake drum the hit the face of the drum. The second flaw is that the castor wheel aren't space far enough apart fore and aft causing them to want to tip over if the castors get stuck. Moving the axle sidewasy however doesn't cause any problems.
The diff you see on the dollies is meant for this car. It's a 10-bolt Chevy from a '56. That's also the ride-height the wheel will place it at.
2007-10-06
For this project I decided to make a set of dollies so I could move it around once the suspension is mounted. They bolt on in place of wheels and I designed them so that they are height adjustable to simulate the correct front and rear wheel heights I'm planning for this car. As you can see there are 10 holes in it. One set of 5 holes is Chevy PCD and the other set is Ford PCD.
There are two design flaws however. The first is the location of the upper bolts holding the adjustable plate. When bolting the dollies to a large brake drum the hit the face of the drum. The second flaw is that the castor wheel aren't space far enough apart fore and aft causing them to want to tip over if the castors get stuck. Moving the axle sidewasy however doesn't cause any problems.
The diff you see on the dollies is meant for this car. It's a 10-bolt Chevy from a '56. That's also the ride-height the wheel will place it at.
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Neophyte
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4-link rear suspension
2007-10-06
All the bushes for the rear suspension are these yellow polyurethane bushes I found at a local spares shop. They have an O.D. of 30mm and I.D. of 18mm. Unfortunately I have to fabricate the inner and outer sleeves myself. Wanting to do as little machining as possible I bought a length of 38mm O.D., 4mm wall, steel tubing to use for the 4-link arms. The added bonus is that the wall thickness gives it a 30mm I.D. , perfect for the bush outer sleeves. For the inner sleeves I bought 18mm bolts with a 81mm long shank and started drilling them out to 12mm I.D. I would have had to go totally out of my way to buy a short piece of 18mm round bar as the local steel suppliers only sell full lengths.
The first pic shows the bushes, inner sleeve and outer sleeve and the 2nd pic shows it assembled.
The 4-link arms still to be cut must then be notched in one end to be welded to these outer sleeves. I need to make a total of 7 units for this car, which is 4 for the 4-link, one for the panhard bar and 2 for the engine mountings. So far I've only done three inner sleeves and two outer sleeves.
2007-10-06
All the bushes for the rear suspension are these yellow polyurethane bushes I found at a local spares shop. They have an O.D. of 30mm and I.D. of 18mm. Unfortunately I have to fabricate the inner and outer sleeves myself. Wanting to do as little machining as possible I bought a length of 38mm O.D., 4mm wall, steel tubing to use for the 4-link arms. The added bonus is that the wall thickness gives it a 30mm I.D. , perfect for the bush outer sleeves. For the inner sleeves I bought 18mm bolts with a 81mm long shank and started drilling them out to 12mm I.D. I would have had to go totally out of my way to buy a short piece of 18mm round bar as the local steel suppliers only sell full lengths.
The first pic shows the bushes, inner sleeve and outer sleeve and the 2nd pic shows it assembled.
The 4-link arms still to be cut must then be notched in one end to be welded to these outer sleeves. I need to make a total of 7 units for this car, which is 4 for the 4-link, one for the panhard bar and 2 for the engine mountings. So far I've only done three inner sleeves and two outer sleeves.
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Neophyte
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4-link rear suspension continued
2007-10-06
The first photo shows the bush outer sleeves and the link arms cut to length and notched.
The second photo just shows where I placed one of the bush outer sleeves into the notch in the arm and welded it all the way around.
2007-10-06
The first photo shows the bush outer sleeves and the link arms cut to length and notched.
The second photo just shows where I placed one of the bush outer sleeves into the notch in the arm and welded it all the way around.
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Neophyte
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4-link rear suspension continued
2007-10-06
After a while of not doing anything to complete the rear suspension components, I took some time to get it done so I could get the diff mounted in the chassis.
The first pic shows one of the fittings I turned for the forward ends of the link arms. It's a very tight fit in the tube and the inner hole is to be tapped M12 for fitting of rose-joints.
The second pic shows the fitting hammered into the link arm. It now just needs to be welded in place but that can be done later as it's basically a press fit and won't come out or move while I'm continueing with mounting the diff in the mean time.
The last pic shows a rose-joint installed. I need to buy a few M12 half nuts to lock it in place. Normal nuts are to "thick".
2007-10-06
After a while of not doing anything to complete the rear suspension components, I took some time to get it done so I could get the diff mounted in the chassis.
The first pic shows one of the fittings I turned for the forward ends of the link arms. It's a very tight fit in the tube and the inner hole is to be tapped M12 for fitting of rose-joints.
The second pic shows the fitting hammered into the link arm. It now just needs to be welded in place but that can be done later as it's basically a press fit and won't come out or move while I'm continueing with mounting the diff in the mean time.
The last pic shows a rose-joint installed. I need to buy a few M12 half nuts to lock it in place. Normal nuts are to "thick".
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Neophyte
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4-link rear suspension continued
2007-10-14
I didn't take too many detailed photo's of how I put the 4-link brackets onto the diff as I got a bit too busy to remember that. I basically set the chassis on jack stands to get the correct ride height and the diff was already at ride height due to the wheel stands. I centered and squared the diff and got the pinion 2 degrees up. Then, in line with the 4-link's chassis brackets, I "marked" the axle where the axle brackets had to go as can be seen in the first pic below. The two plates go on the outside of the two pieces of tape and so will be 70mm apart.
I then proceeded to weld the brackets to the axle. The second pic shows them all welded up and the diff fitted to the chassis. Just behind the 4-link brackets on the axle you can see the beginnings of the coil-spring "cup". After all this work I sprayed all the work black with a can to stop it from getting rusty like the frame did. Next thing on the list is to weld up the threaded fittings at the front of the 4-link arms where the go into the tubes. Then I also need to fabricate a panhard bar to stop the diff from moving sideways.
The last pic just shows where the stock bump-stop on the axle sits in it's stock location. This is pure luck / coincidence that it happened to sit directly below the frame as I didn't take that into consideration whatsoever when I built the frame. The idea was actually to install "custom" bump-stops and quite obviously this saves me from having to do that.
2007-10-14
I didn't take too many detailed photo's of how I put the 4-link brackets onto the diff as I got a bit too busy to remember that. I basically set the chassis on jack stands to get the correct ride height and the diff was already at ride height due to the wheel stands. I centered and squared the diff and got the pinion 2 degrees up. Then, in line with the 4-link's chassis brackets, I "marked" the axle where the axle brackets had to go as can be seen in the first pic below. The two plates go on the outside of the two pieces of tape and so will be 70mm apart.
I then proceeded to weld the brackets to the axle. The second pic shows them all welded up and the diff fitted to the chassis. Just behind the 4-link brackets on the axle you can see the beginnings of the coil-spring "cup". After all this work I sprayed all the work black with a can to stop it from getting rusty like the frame did. Next thing on the list is to weld up the threaded fittings at the front of the 4-link arms where the go into the tubes. Then I also need to fabricate a panhard bar to stop the diff from moving sideways.
The last pic just shows where the stock bump-stop on the axle sits in it's stock location. This is pure luck / coincidence that it happened to sit directly below the frame as I didn't take that into consideration whatsoever when I built the frame. The idea was actually to install "custom" bump-stops and quite obviously this saves me from having to do that.
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Neophyte
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Front suspension
2007-10-22
I finally managed to start on the front suspension.
The whole them of the build called for an I-beam axle with transverse leaf spring. Some people have tried to convince me otherwise. It's all about the look of an old-school hot rod and not a modern day street rod.
The front suspension setup comes off a 1938 Ford. The first photo shows the axle with wishbones but with the spring removed from between the front ends of the wishbones. I forgot to take photos of it before removing the spring. In the mean time I sent it in to have it shortened so I could mount it behind the axle.
Next, I split the wishbones by cutting of the swivel ball at the rear end. It was cut at this point to have the wishbones as long as possible.
2007-10-22
I finally managed to start on the front suspension.
The whole them of the build called for an I-beam axle with transverse leaf spring. Some people have tried to convince me otherwise. It's all about the look of an old-school hot rod and not a modern day street rod.
The front suspension setup comes off a 1938 Ford. The first photo shows the axle with wishbones but with the spring removed from between the front ends of the wishbones. I forgot to take photos of it before removing the spring. In the mean time I sent it in to have it shortened so I could mount it behind the axle.
Next, I split the wishbones by cutting of the swivel ball at the rear end. It was cut at this point to have the wishbones as long as possible.
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Neophyte
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Front suspension continued
2007-10-22
My next mission was the get the perch pins, holding the wishbones to the axle, out so that I could remove the wishbones from the axle. When doing some research I came across a few different stories. One was that sometimes using just a 50 ton press doesn't help as the pressure cause the pin to expand and sit tighter. Another option, with apparently good results, was to heat the pin boss on the axle itself. Once it's nearly red hot you dip it in water to cool it down quickly. You repeat this a few times and the heating and cooling breaks the corrosion. Eventually it's quite easy to just hammer them out.
The next two photos just show the axle and wishbones separated from each other.
2007-10-22
My next mission was the get the perch pins, holding the wishbones to the axle, out so that I could remove the wishbones from the axle. When doing some research I came across a few different stories. One was that sometimes using just a 50 ton press doesn't help as the pressure cause the pin to expand and sit tighter. Another option, with apparently good results, was to heat the pin boss on the axle itself. Once it's nearly red hot you dip it in water to cool it down quickly. You repeat this a few times and the heating and cooling breaks the corrosion. Eventually it's quite easy to just hammer them out.
The next two photos just show the axle and wishbones separated from each other.
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Neophyte
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Front suspension continued
2007-10-22
Next on the list was to make perches on the wishbones for the spring. I started off by printing my design on self-adhesive paper which I cut out and stuck to a 5mm plate.
I then used a Sharpie marker to outline all the edges for cutting as can be seen in the last two pics.
2007-10-22
Next on the list was to make perches on the wishbones for the spring. I started off by printing my design on self-adhesive paper which I cut out and stuck to a 5mm plate.
I then used a Sharpie marker to outline all the edges for cutting as can be seen in the last two pics.
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Neophyte
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Front suspension continued
2007-10-22
Pic 1: I proceeded by drilling pilot holes in each of the holes to be cut in the brackets to allow the plasma cutter to get a little easier start.
Pic 2: Here are the four brackets after cutting.
Pic 3: Here they are on the wishbone after cleaning up and final trimming. The bush sleeve will go through the larger holes while the smaller holes will hold a smaller tube just for looks.
2007-10-22
Pic 1: I proceeded by drilling pilot holes in each of the holes to be cut in the brackets to allow the plasma cutter to get a little easier start.
Pic 2: Here are the four brackets after cutting.
Pic 3: Here they are on the wishbone after cleaning up and final trimming. The bush sleeve will go through the larger holes while the smaller holes will hold a smaller tube just for looks.
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Neophyte
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Front suspension continued
2007-10-28
I re-installed the wishbones and I also installed the spring. I then tack welded the shackle perches to the wishbones in line with the spring.
I then made up a set of "test" shackles and two "test" bushes. The test shackles were off-cut pieces of 25mm x 3mm flat-bar with the eye centres 52mm apart. The test bushes tubes with washers welded on the ends. Once I'm happy with the perches and shackle I'll make the actual shackle and weld in the perch bush sleeves.
At last the chassis is now suspended in front. As I said above, the shackles must still be replaced and the rest must be fully welded up including the main spring perch.
2007-10-28
I re-installed the wishbones and I also installed the spring. I then tack welded the shackle perches to the wishbones in line with the spring.
I then made up a set of "test" shackles and two "test" bushes. The test shackles were off-cut pieces of 25mm x 3mm flat-bar with the eye centres 52mm apart. The test bushes tubes with washers welded on the ends. Once I'm happy with the perches and shackle I'll make the actual shackle and weld in the perch bush sleeves.
At last the chassis is now suspended in front. As I said above, the shackles must still be replaced and the rest must be fully welded up including the main spring perch.
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Neophyte
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Front wheel dollies
2007-10-28
The whole idea with this build is to be able to easily move the chassis around once the suspension was mounted. I have already got two dollies bolted onto the rear axle in place of wheels and with the front suspension mounted it was now time to get the front dollies mounted.
The problem however is that I don't have front hubs yet onto which the dollies can be bolted. So, I decided to make some kind of adapter plate to allow them to be bolted directly to the front spindles. Again I use pieces of leftover plate for this purpose. This now allows me to move the chassis to where I want to work on it.
The grease on the spindle is just to stop it from rusting up while I wait for hubs.
2007-10-28
The whole idea with this build is to be able to easily move the chassis around once the suspension was mounted. I have already got two dollies bolted onto the rear axle in place of wheels and with the front suspension mounted it was now time to get the front dollies mounted.
The problem however is that I don't have front hubs yet onto which the dollies can be bolted. So, I decided to make some kind of adapter plate to allow them to be bolted directly to the front spindles. Again I use pieces of leftover plate for this purpose. This now allows me to move the chassis to where I want to work on it.
The grease on the spindle is just to stop it from rusting up while I wait for hubs.
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Neophyte
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Rear suspension continued
2007-10-28
On to the rear suspension again. This time to do the shock absorber mountings.
First I needed to cut the upper shock / coil spring plates. For this I used 3mm plate. I cut them to size and also cut the hole for the shock bush with my plasma cutter.
I then proceeded to cut a hole in the shock / coil spring plates already tack welded to the rear axle, again with the plasma cutter (what a wonderful piece of equipment).
In the last picture I've got the upper plates welded to the upper rear corners of the chassis and I also test fitted an old shock absorber.
On the underside of the upper plates, along the edges, I still need to weld some 5mm flat-bar to stop them from flexing. Then I also need to add coil spring retaining rings to keep the springs in place but I'll do that at a later stage.
2007-10-28
On to the rear suspension again. This time to do the shock absorber mountings.
First I needed to cut the upper shock / coil spring plates. For this I used 3mm plate. I cut them to size and also cut the hole for the shock bush with my plasma cutter.
I then proceeded to cut a hole in the shock / coil spring plates already tack welded to the rear axle, again with the plasma cutter (what a wonderful piece of equipment).
In the last picture I've got the upper plates welded to the upper rear corners of the chassis and I also test fitted an old shock absorber.
On the underside of the upper plates, along the edges, I still need to weld some 5mm flat-bar to stop them from flexing. Then I also need to add coil spring retaining rings to keep the springs in place but I'll do that at a later stage.
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Neophyte
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Rear suspension continued
2007-10-28
Here I took two pieces of square tubing and basically made two "ride height bars". I drilled them so that they could be bolted on in place of shock absorbers to allow the chassis to always sit at the aimed ride height while working on it.
The other two photos just show the chassis fully suspended and able to be moved around. The last photo doesn't show it too well but the chassis actually has a 3 degree forward rake for a nice stance.
2007-10-28
Here I took two pieces of square tubing and basically made two "ride height bars". I drilled them so that they could be bolted on in place of shock absorbers to allow the chassis to always sit at the aimed ride height while working on it.
The other two photos just show the chassis fully suspended and able to be moved around. The last photo doesn't show it too well but the chassis actually has a 3 degree forward rake for a nice stance.
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Neophyte
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Mounting the engine and transmission
2007-11-03
I can't believe I'm already at the point of mounting the engine. It feels like I've reached a major milestone.
The engine is a Chevy 350 and the transmission a TH-350 from about 1971. Both will be freshened up a bit to make this car go reasonably well. Nothing extravagant as I don't have a major budget to work with here.
First off I cut a piece out of the center cross-member wide enough for the transmission. The transmission mounting will sit on that lower portion of the cross-member. I then cut pieces of 3mm flat-bar to close up the gaps again.
Next I bolted the transmission to the cross-member. As this was a week evening I didn't have much time to go further so I put a piece of wood across the frame and under the oil-pan for the engine to rest on 'till I could do the engine mountings.
2007-11-03
I can't believe I'm already at the point of mounting the engine. It feels like I've reached a major milestone.
The engine is a Chevy 350 and the transmission a TH-350 from about 1971. Both will be freshened up a bit to make this car go reasonably well. Nothing extravagant as I don't have a major budget to work with here.
First off I cut a piece out of the center cross-member wide enough for the transmission. The transmission mounting will sit on that lower portion of the cross-member. I then cut pieces of 3mm flat-bar to close up the gaps again.
Next I bolted the transmission to the cross-member. As this was a week evening I didn't have much time to go further so I put a piece of wood across the frame and under the oil-pan for the engine to rest on 'till I could do the engine mountings.
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Neophyte
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Mounting the engine and transmission continued
2007-11-03
This morning I let the front of the engine hang from the engine hoist while I got it to the right height and got it centered. What a mission! One would'nt think it could take so long. Measure, move, measure, move until you eventually have it there. In the end I didn't really have to go through all that trouble as my measurement for the engine mountings were spot on. I did however have to confirm that first before assembling the mountings.
The first photo shows the left mounting fully assembled, bolted to both the engine and the chassis brackets. The chassis brackets were tack welded to the frame once I had the mountings tacked and bolted to the engine. That way you ensure they are in the right place.
In the second and last photos the engine now rests fully on it's new mountings. To be honest I'm quite chuffed with how they turned out.
Yes, the engine does seem to sit a bit high but the whole idea behind that is so that nothing sticks out below the chassis.
2007-11-03
This morning I let the front of the engine hang from the engine hoist while I got it to the right height and got it centered. What a mission! One would'nt think it could take so long. Measure, move, measure, move until you eventually have it there. In the end I didn't really have to go through all that trouble as my measurement for the engine mountings were spot on. I did however have to confirm that first before assembling the mountings.
The first photo shows the left mounting fully assembled, bolted to both the engine and the chassis brackets. The chassis brackets were tack welded to the frame once I had the mountings tacked and bolted to the engine. That way you ensure they are in the right place.
In the second and last photos the engine now rests fully on it's new mountings. To be honest I'm quite chuffed with how they turned out.
Yes, the engine does seem to sit a bit high but the whole idea behind that is so that nothing sticks out below the chassis.
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Neophyte
Well-known member
Well, that's it for now folks. This past month I haven't had much chance to work on this project. This coming weekend though I want to make the front shock towers and maybe also the rear panhard axle mount.
Neophyte
Well-known member
Thanks. Yeah I created the build thread here too to allow people to view it "locally" instead of letting them go to the H.A.M.B. via my signature.
